I am hesitant to share my feelings as I see that the author is going through comments here. Reviews by readers are for other readers, not authors. OncI am hesitant to share my feelings as I see that the author is going through comments here. Reviews by readers are for other readers, not authors. Once, I read a book about being blonde in which the author basically stated that being blonde was every good character trait, meaning most dark hair women were, by default of the leftover personalities, dull. The book went for a vague feeling over compelling arguments or history. The author found my review and told me that I was too stupid to understand her book. I mention this because Eyeliner is only slightly better at making its argument. (To her credit, this author seems much nicer than The Blonde.)
Eyeliner is a frustratingly repetitive book. It's divided by cultures: Iranian, Worso, Chola, drag, etc. I understand wanting to highlight separate people and their history with the product, but it results in quote after quote that can be summed up as “I like wearing eyeliner. It makes me feel pretty and powerful. It connects me to my heritage." That's wonderful, but it's an essay, not 11 hours of content. (As an aside, I had to speed up the book because the reader read every sentence in the exact same vocal pattern. I kept dozing off.)
Instead of dividing the book by geography, I wish it was divided by purpose. Chapters centered on creation, beauty, rebellion, religion, community, appropriation, etc would have included much of the same content, but would have cut down on repetative statements.
Even that wouldn't have saved this book though. The writing was sloppy, with the author occasionally, jarringly inserting herself in the narrative. That's just one form of filler. As other people have said, why was there an entire chapter on Amy Winehouse, going into details of her career and tragic death? Why not just talk about eyeliner in the music scene? To go into detail about her life and death felt not just off topic, but exploitative, especially when the very next chapter claims that white women wearing eyeliner is cultural appropriation. (Not the author’s assertion, but she did choose the quote.)
I did enjoy some parts of this book. I had no idea that kohl was used medicinally or that it promoted lash growth. The standout chapters (perhaps because they were early so they didn't feel repetitive) were about the Worso beauty pageant and eyeliner as political subversion in Iran....more
The art isn't that great and the book gives you no historical context. However, it's a nice reference for the evolution of clothing. Pretty cheap to bThe art isn't that great and the book gives you no historical context. However, it's a nice reference for the evolution of clothing. Pretty cheap to buy used too....more
This book changed the way I look at clothes. Very often modern Americans base the stylishness of an outfit on whether or not it creates an hour glass This book changed the way I look at clothes. Very often modern Americans base the stylishness of an outfit on whether or not it creates an hour glass figure, but this is a limited aesthetic. Throughout history, clothing has served different purposes of enhancing the figure or displaying jewelry or exhibiting the wearer's ability to elaborately fold a large bolt of cloth. Now instead of assuming an outfit is meant for the figure, I first ask myself what the goal of an outfit is. Color study? A contrast of textures? A backdrop for accessories?...more
While I agree with the author on paper dresses, unisex outfits, logos, fanny packs, hot pants, plastic clothes, and sweat suits worn out of the gym, WWhile I agree with the author on paper dresses, unisex outfits, logos, fanny packs, hot pants, plastic clothes, and sweat suits worn out of the gym, Worst Fashions is primarily a cautionary tale of how too many personal fashion rules can eliminate the fun of getting dressed.
Bad fashion is something that is incredibly impractical or constantly threatens to expose your personal bits. Something is not bad fashion just because it's not your taste or made or someone with a different body than yours. Since there are exceptions to every rule, it's better to say "This item isn't for me," than to completely ban things from your wardrobe like Ms. Horwood has with many fashion staples....more
While this books wasn't helpful for me (I've been studying fashion for a while), it's a great guide for any woman who's starting to build her basic waWhile this books wasn't helpful for me (I've been studying fashion for a while), it's a great guide for any woman who's starting to build her basic wardrobe. The author has great tips on where to save or splurge and how to care for your clothes....more
In telling the story of ten wardrobe staples, MacDonell highlights two centuries of our shifting views on gender, class, economics, sex, and morality.In telling the story of ten wardrobe staples, MacDonell highlights two centuries of our shifting views on gender, class, economics, sex, and morality. Great for discussion. One of the best works on non-fiction I've read in years....more
Rather than saying, "Dior was significant," the author spends half the books establishing the social and fashion scenes as influenced by war, depressiRather than saying, "Dior was significant," the author spends half the books establishing the social and fashion scenes as influenced by war, depression, art and film, several decades before the arrival of Dior's New Look. By the time Christian Dior comes on to the fashion scene, the reader has a perfect grasp of the world he was turning upside down.
The New Look also made me rethink vintage clothing. I'd always been told things about how this and that was popular because it was modest, but it really was just in vogue.
Favorite tidbits: Shoulder bags are the offspring of gas mask holders.
A typical Dior New Look dress required over 25 yards of fabric and 200 man-hours to complete.
Christian Dior received death threats over his New Look collection.
"Fashion is dedicated to all the women of the world, to women in general. There is nothing I would like better than to make every woman look and feel like a duchess." -- Christian Dior...more
Pros: Designers are divided by the prevailing aesthetic of the house rather than chronologically. Sections include The Founders who made couture what Pros: Designers are divided by the prevailing aesthetic of the house rather than chronologically. Sections include The Founders who made couture what it is; The Purists who focus on functional clothes for the active woman; The Entertainers who treat couture like theater; and The Architects who focus on construction.
The section on the originators of modern couture was particularly interesting. That felt like an honest evaluation of a career while some of the chapters on contemporary designers felt slightly fawning.
The big, colorful pictures are such eye candy I think my pupils may need to start a New Year's diet.
Cons: It was published in 1985.
Not only does Milbank lean toward a preppy aesthetic (see 1985), but she almost completely ignores British and Italian fashion houses. Oddly enough, the author seems dismissive of Parisian powerhouse Dior.
Favorite tidbits: Coco Chanel was a peasant orphan, a past she never tried to hide. She wore piles of costume jewelry to mock "kept" women.
Modern couture was created by an Englishman. ...more