Ōshima-tsumugi: Difference between revisions
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Ōshima-tsumugi is a traditional craft textile produced in the Amami Islands (mainly Amami Ōshima) in southern Kagoshima Prefecture. It is a hand woven plain-weave silk cloth |
{{Short description|A traditional mud-dyed silk textile produced on the Island of Amami Oshima}} |
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'''Ōshima-tsumugi''' is a traditional craft textile produced in the [[Amami Islands]] (mainly Amami Ōshima) in southern [[Kagoshima Prefecture]], Japan. It is a hand woven [[plain-weave]] silk cloth dyed in [[mud]]. The textile is most commonly used for making kimonos. Oshima-tsumugi kimonos are often simply called Ōshima. |
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[[File:OshimaTsumugiDetail.jpg|thumb|Detail of an Oshima kimono up close.]] |
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== Outline == |
== Outline == |
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Ōshima-tsumugi is considered one of the three finest textiles in the world, along with |
Ōshima-tsumugi is considered one of the three finest textiles in the world, along with French [[Gobelin]] weaving, and Persian carpets in Iran.<ref>https://amamioshimatsumugi.com/tsumugi/</ref> Ōshima-tsumugi has a long history of about 1,300 years.<ref>https://amamioshimatsumugi.com/tsumugi/</ref><ref>http://www.kimono.or.jp/dictionary/eng/ooshimatsumugi.html</ref> |
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⚫ | In addition to Amami Oshima Island, the fabric is produced in Kagoshima City, Miyakonojo City, and various other areas. In Amami Oshima there is a"Honba Amami-Oshima Tsumugi Textile Cooperative Association" and Oshima tsumugi made in Amami Oshima |
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Ōshima-tsumugi is known for being supple, lightweight, and wrinkle-resistant. Oshima tsumugi kimono are also traditionally dyed using mud and a dye produced from the bark of the Techigi Tree ([[Rhaphiolepis umbellata]])<ref>https://artsandculture.google.com/story/honba-oshima-tsumugi-fabric-kyoto-women-s-university/qAUx7n8uomYiIQ?hl=en#:~:text=First%2C%20boil%20the%20finely%20chipped,black%20unique%20to%20Oshima%20Tsumugi.</ref> [[Indigo]] and other natural dyes as well as synthetic dyes are also used<ref>https://www.motoji.co.jp/blogs/reading/deichu-no-gin-en</ref>. |
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⚫ | Due to its hardwearing nature, it is often said that up to three generations can wear the same kimono.<ref>https://nihonmono.jp/en/article/29406/</ref> Ōshima-tsumugi kimono are hugely valued for their detailed [[kasuri]] patterns and deep black colour. They are known as one of the most expensive silk fabrics in Japan.<ref>https://cafe-kimono.com/en/all-about-oshima-tsumugi-kimono-details-and-the-way-to-distinguish-types/</ref> The cheapest piece costs about 300,000 yen per bolt, or tanmono, and the highest quality costs several million yen.<ref>https://www.motoji.co.jp/collections/oshima-tsumugi/products/1016101892</ref> |
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⚫ | Ōshima-tsumugi is produced in |
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⚫ | In addition to Amami Oshima Island, the fabric is produced in [[Kagoshima City]], [[Miyakonojo City]], and various other areas. In Amami Oshima there is a "[[Honba Amami-Oshima Tsumugi Textile Cooperative Association]]" and Oshima tsumugi made in Amami Oshima according to certain rules are given the certification mark "Honba Amami-Oshima Tsumugi".<ref>https://artsandculture.google.com/story/honba-oshima-tsumugi-fabric-kyoto-women-s-university/qAUx7n8uomYiIQ?hl=en</ref> Bolts of fabric sold with this certification mark are of high value. |
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In 2006, Amami City was merged with Nase City, Kasari Town, and Sumiyoshi Village, which had been the central city of the Amami region, to form Amami City. It is located in the central to northern part of Amami Oshima Island and occupies about 40% of the island's total area. The diverse natural environment and biodiversity, including vast mangrove forests, are recognized worldwide, and on July 26, 2021, it was decided to register Amami Oshima, Tokunoshima, Northern Okinawa Island, and Iriomotejima as a World Natural Heritage site. There are many tangible and intangible cultural assets, including traditional island culture such as the island songs and August dances that have been passed down from generation to generation, and historic sites and buildings that have been preserved in each region, of which Oshima silk is one. In Amami City, there are "Amami Oshima Tsumugi Village, Oshima Tsumugi Factory Tourist Garden" and "Yumeori no Sato" as facilities where visitors can observe the entire production process of genuine Oshima Tsumugi and experience mud dyeing and other various activities. |
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Today, the colors and patterns are becoming more and more diverse, including "colored Oshima" and "white Oshima. Though Ōshima-tsumugi is mainly used for making kimono, small items such as coasters, neckties, and purses are also popular. |
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Unfortunately, there are fewer and fewer craftspeople creating Ōshima-tsumugi on the island, and the textile is facing extinction. |
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Kagoshima City is located in the central part of Kagoshima Prefecture. It is the capital of Kagoshima Prefecture and is designated as a central city. Factories and other facilities were established when the authentic Oshima silk was introduced to the mainland, and Oshima silk gradually developed. During the war, production in Kagoshima was halted, but later, Amami people who were evacuated to Kagoshima during the war joined in and production resumed as Honba Oshima tsumugi (Oshima tsumugi), which is still produced mainly in Kagoshima City. In Kagoshima City, there is "Ose Shoten" which sells and rents Oshima tsumugi products and offers industrial tours and cultural experiences, and "Amami no Sato" where visitors can learn about the history of authentic Oshima tsumugi, the production process, and the Oshima tsumugi museum. |
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== History == |
== History == |
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The origin of Oshima Tsumugi is unclear, though it has been reported that this ancient |
The origin of Oshima Tsumugi is unclear, though it has been reported that this ancient technique goes back at least 1,300 years<ref>https://www.google.com/search?q=1300+hisotry+oshima+tsumugi&oq=1300+hisotry+oshima+tsumugi&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyCAgAEEUYFRg5MgkIARAhGAoYoAHSAQg0MDAyajBqNKgCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8</ref>. |
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[[File:Dyeing Oshima-tsumugi.jpg|thumb| Pre-war Japanese postcard showing people dyeing Ōshima-tsumugi]] |
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[[File:Colour_materials_of_Oshima-tsumugi.jpg|thumb| In the mud fields]] |
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The history of the important process of mud dyeing is long and is described in a book in the [[Shōsōin]]<ref>https://amamito.jp/en/traditional/898/</ref>. |
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Traditionally, women would do the weaving at home, in between their chores, to contribute to the family income. By the latter half of the Edo period (1603–1867), Oshima tsumugi had become a specialty of Amami Oshima and, like sugarcane, islanders had to supply the fabric to the Satsuma domain in lieu of tax. This ended in 1879, when Amami Oshima became part of Japan. While production has decreased in recent years, many weavers still work at home<ref>https://ohshimatsumuginextproject.com/honbaohshimatsumugi-2/#:~:text=Oshima%20Tsumugi%20is%20a%20kimono,been%20made%20since%20ancient%20times.</ref>. |
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The history of the important process of mud dyeing is long and is described in a book in the Shosoin Repository. Several theories have been handed down as to its origin. In the early days, Oshima tsumugi was woven by hand on a traditional Japanese silk machine and worn by the islanders for their own use. |
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According to the document record that leads to today's Oshima tsumugi, in 1720, the Satsuma clan prohibited the wearing of tsumugi except for island officials ("Kuchijo Kakaku", Matsuoka family document). It is therefore believed that the production of tsumugi had been in existence prior to 1720, and together with brown sugar, it was an important source of financial resources for the clan. A record from the end of the Edo period, "Minamishima Zanwa" ("Zakka of Minamishima"), states that "the weaving is dull, but it has long since become shiny and is very good, and the stripes are various. Oshima tsumugi was exhibited at the 3rd National Industrial Exhibition held in April 1890, where it was highly evaluated, and continued to be exhibited at various product fairs and exhibitions, The fame of Oshima pongee increased. |
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In 1901, Kagoshima Oshima Tsumugi Industrial Association was established in Nase City with 3,000 members for the purpose of unification of traders, progress and development, prevention of inferior products and quality improvement through product inspection. This was the predecessor of the present Honjo Amami Oshima Tsumugi Cooperative. In the beginning, inspections were not thorough due to the strict inspection regulations and the low organization rate of the cooperative. However, in 1904, when the textile consumption tax was newly established, the tax office required an assessment of the tax amount after the inspection of products by the cooperative, which forced them to join the cooperative. At the same time, father and son Ieon Nagae and Tohachi Nagae established elaborate kasuri processing using a shime machine, and technological progress was made. Oshima silk could not be called pongee until around the beginning of the Meiji period, and nowadays it can no longer be called pongee due to the use of twisted yarn. The name for this fabric is "Oshima Kasuri. The only difference is that the paste used for making silk is wheat flour in Yuki silk and seaweed in Oshima silk |
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== Production == |
== Production == |
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'''Shimebata''' |
'''Shimebata''' |
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Shimebata is the technique used to make the [[kasuri]] threads. The white silk threads are tightly woven with cotton threads creating a dense mat. Areas of the silk threads are exposed according to the design. When dyed only certain of the areas of the thread will take colour. <ref>https://www.oshima-tsumugi.com/en/#:~:text=%E2%97%8F%20Shimebata,is%20called%20%E2%80%9Ckasuri%20mushiro%E2%80%9D.</ref> |
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'''Dyeing''' |
'''Dyeing''' |
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There are two main dyeing processes, one using a dye from the bark of the Techigi tree, and the other, mud. The Techigi tree is cut into chips, and boiled down to a thick red liquid. The silk and cotton mats are first dyed in this dye turning them pink, and are then dyed repeatedly in the mud. The fabric goes from a light grey, to a reddish brown, and finally to a rich, warm black. The tannin in the dye of the Techigi tree and the iron in the iron rich mud reacts to create this black color, unique to Oshima Tsumugi. |
There are two main dyeing processes, one using a dye from the bark of the Techigi tree, and the other, mud. The Techigi tree is cut into chips, and boiled down to a thick red liquid. The silk and cotton mats are first dyed in this dye turning them pink, and are then dyed repeatedly in the mud. The fabric goes from a light grey, to a reddish brown, and finally to a rich, warm black. The tannin in the dye of the Techigi tree and the iron in the iron rich mud reacts to create this black color, unique to Oshima Tsumugi. |
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[[File:Techigi (Rhaphiolepis indica var. umbellata).jpg|thumb|Cut techigi ready to be processed and turned into dye to dye Oshima Tsumugi]][[File:Mud Dyeing Kanai Workshop.jpg|thumb|Mud dyeing paddy at the Kanai dyeing workshop]] |
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Somestimes when there is not enough iron in the mud, it |
Somestimes when there is not enough iron in the mud, it does not dye well. When the happens, leaves from the sotetsu tree and put in the mud strengthening the chemical effect of the dye. |
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'''Weaving''' |
'''Weaving''' |
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Hataori is a general term for fabrics woven in plain weave. The warp and weft threads are woven one by one. the black Honjo Amami Oshima silk is woven in order to dye each thread with dots that will become part of the pattern, and the dotted threads are then woven to make the fabric into a warp while matching the pattern. |
Hataori is a general term for fabrics woven in plain weave. The warp and weft threads are woven one by one. the black Honjo Amami Oshima silk is woven in order to dye each thread with dots that will become part of the pattern, and the dotted threads are then woven to make the fabric into a warp while matching the pattern. |
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== |
== Producers== |
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There are currently four main producers (Hata-ya) of Oshima Tsumugi on the island of Amami. <ref>https://amamioshimatsumugi.com/</ref> |
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Many patterns can be construced with kasuri to create oshima tsumugi. Many traditional patterns are named after village names. |
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Maeda Tsumugi Kogei |
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'''Tatsugo''' |
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Tonari Orimono |
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Yumeorinosato |
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Hajime Shoji |
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== Patterns == |
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Many traditional patterns are named after village names. These patterns, along with many other contemporary patterns are currently produced. |
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* Tatsugo-gara 龍郷柄 |
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The flowers in the pattern are sometimes dyed red. |
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It is one of the most iconic Oshima patterns and can be seen all over the island as |
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<ref>https://mtoku.yourweb.csuchico.edu/vc/Exhibitions/ohshima/traditional.html</ref> |
<ref>https://mtoku.yourweb.csuchico.edu/vc/Exhibitions/ohshima/traditional.html</ref> |
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[[File:Sotetsu (Sago Palm) in Amami.jpg|thumb|The Sotetsu Plant (Sago Palm)]] |
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* Akinabara 秋名バラ |
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Named after the village of Akina. Bara comes from |
Named after the village of Akina. Bara comes from the word for basket or sieve |
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* Arima |
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== 関連項目 == |
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⚫ | Ōshima-tsumugi is produced in three main areas: The island of Amami Oshima, Kagoshima City, and the greater Kagoshima Prefecture<ref>http://www.kimono.or.jp/dictionary/eng/ooshimatsumugi.html</ref>. Honba Ōshima-tsumugi was developed in Amami Oshima, and it is said that this technique was introduced to the Kagoshima mainland in 1874<ref>https://kogeijapan.com/locale/en_US/honbaoshimatsumugi/</ref>. There are two Honba Oshima Tsumugi unions, one in Amami and the other in Kagoshima City. Kimono produced by the Amami union have a seal with a globe, and those produced by the Kagoshima union have a seal with two flags<ref>https://oshimatsumugi.com/</ref>. |
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⚫ | |||
* [[Twill|綾織]](あやおり) |
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* [[Tanaka Isson|田中一村]](後半生を奄美大島で送り、大島紬の染色工をしながら絵を描いた画家) |
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== Gallery== |
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<gallery> |
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OshimaTsumugiDetail.jpg| |
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Mud Dyeing Kanai Workshop.jpg| |
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Techigi (Rhaphiolepis indica var. umbellata).jpg| |
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Sotetsu (Sago Palm) in Amami.jpg| |
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Dyeing_Oshima-tsumugi.jpg| |
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Colour_materials_of_Oshima-tsumugi.jpg| |
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</gallery> |
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== See also == |
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⚫ | |||
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* [[Twill]] |
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* [[Tanaka Isson]] |
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== References == |
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{{reflist}} |
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== External links == |
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* [http://www.kimono.or.jp/dictionary/eng/ooshimatsumugi.html Oshima Tsumugi] via The Cultural Foundation For Promoting the National Costume of Japan |
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* [https://sites.google.com/site/honbaamamioshimatsumugi/ 本場奄美大島紬協同組合] |
* [https://sites.google.com/site/honbaamamioshimatsumugi/ 本場奄美大島紬協同組合] |
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* [http://www.amaminosato.jp/index.html 本場大島紬の里(奄美の里)](都喜ヱ門大島紬美術館) |
* [http://www.amaminosato.jp/index.html 本場大島紬の里(奄美の里)](都喜ヱ門大島紬美術館) |
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* [http://www.motoji.co.jp/oshima/history/index.htm 大島紬の歴史を辿る](銀座もとじ 大島紬) |
* [http://www.motoji.co.jp/oshima/history/index.htm 大島紬の歴史を辿る](銀座もとじ 大島紬) |
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[[Category:Amami culture]] |
[[Category:Amami culture]] |
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[[Category: |
[[Category:Textile arts of Japan]] |
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[[Category:Textile]] |
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[[Category:Weaving]] |
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[[Category:Ikat]] |
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[[Category:Kasuri]] |
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[[Category:Tsumugi]] |
Revision as of 03:53, 5 July 2024
Ōshima-tsumugi is a traditional craft textile produced in the Amami Islands (mainly Amami Ōshima) in southern Kagoshima Prefecture, Japan. It is a hand woven plain-weave silk cloth dyed in mud. The textile is most commonly used for making kimonos. Oshima-tsumugi kimonos are often simply called Ōshima.
Outline
Ōshima-tsumugi is considered one of the three finest textiles in the world, along with French Gobelin weaving, and Persian carpets in Iran.[1] Ōshima-tsumugi has a long history of about 1,300 years.[2][3]
Ōshima-tsumugi is known for being supple, lightweight, and wrinkle-resistant. Oshima tsumugi kimono are also traditionally dyed using mud and a dye produced from the bark of the Techigi Tree (Rhaphiolepis umbellata)[4] Indigo and other natural dyes as well as synthetic dyes are also used[5]. Due to its hardwearing nature, it is often said that up to three generations can wear the same kimono.[6] Ōshima-tsumugi kimono are hugely valued for their detailed kasuri patterns and deep black colour. They are known as one of the most expensive silk fabrics in Japan.[7] The cheapest piece costs about 300,000 yen per bolt, or tanmono, and the highest quality costs several million yen.[8]
In addition to Amami Oshima Island, the fabric is produced in Kagoshima City, Miyakonojo City, and various other areas. In Amami Oshima there is a "Honba Amami-Oshima Tsumugi Textile Cooperative Association" and Oshima tsumugi made in Amami Oshima according to certain rules are given the certification mark "Honba Amami-Oshima Tsumugi".[9] Bolts of fabric sold with this certification mark are of high value. Today, the colors and patterns are becoming more and more diverse, including "colored Oshima" and "white Oshima. Though Ōshima-tsumugi is mainly used for making kimono, small items such as coasters, neckties, and purses are also popular. Unfortunately, there are fewer and fewer craftspeople creating Ōshima-tsumugi on the island, and the textile is facing extinction.
History
The origin of Oshima Tsumugi is unclear, though it has been reported that this ancient technique goes back at least 1,300 years[10].
The history of the important process of mud dyeing is long and is described in a book in the Shōsōin[11].
Traditionally, women would do the weaving at home, in between their chores, to contribute to the family income. By the latter half of the Edo period (1603–1867), Oshima tsumugi had become a specialty of Amami Oshima and, like sugarcane, islanders had to supply the fabric to the Satsuma domain in lieu of tax. This ended in 1879, when Amami Oshima became part of Japan. While production has decreased in recent years, many weavers still work at home[12].
Production
Oshima Tsumugi kimono are produced in a lengthy process with over 30 steps.[13]
Shimebata
Shimebata is the technique used to make the kasuri threads. The white silk threads are tightly woven with cotton threads creating a dense mat. Areas of the silk threads are exposed according to the design. When dyed only certain of the areas of the thread will take colour. [14]
Dyeing
There are two main dyeing processes, one using a dye from the bark of the Techigi tree, and the other, mud. The Techigi tree is cut into chips, and boiled down to a thick red liquid. The silk and cotton mats are first dyed in this dye turning them pink, and are then dyed repeatedly in the mud. The fabric goes from a light grey, to a reddish brown, and finally to a rich, warm black. The tannin in the dye of the Techigi tree and the iron in the iron rich mud reacts to create this black color, unique to Oshima Tsumugi.
Somestimes when there is not enough iron in the mud, it does not dye well. When the happens, leaves from the sotetsu tree and put in the mud strengthening the chemical effect of the dye.
Weaving
Hataori is a general term for fabrics woven in plain weave. The warp and weft threads are woven one by one. the black Honjo Amami Oshima silk is woven in order to dye each thread with dots that will become part of the pattern, and the dotted threads are then woven to make the fabric into a warp while matching the pattern.
Producers
There are currently four main producers (Hata-ya) of Oshima Tsumugi on the island of Amami. [15]
Maeda Tsumugi Kogei
Tonari Orimono
Yumeorinosato
Hajime Shoji
Patterns
Many traditional patterns are named after village names. These patterns, along with many other contemporary patterns are currently produced.
- Tatsugo-gara 龍郷柄
Derived from Tatsugou village which is one of the biggest weaving region of Oshima tsumugi.[16] The pattern often features the a pattern that depicts the skin of the poisonous Habu snake, and the zig zagged leaves of the Sotetsu plant. The flowers in the pattern are sometimes dyed red. It is one of the most iconic Oshima patterns and can be seen all over the island as [17]
- Akinabara 秋名バラ
Named after the village of Akina. Bara comes from the word for basket or sieve
- Arima
- Saigo
Production areas
Ōshima-tsumugi is produced in three main areas: The island of Amami Oshima, Kagoshima City, and the greater Kagoshima Prefecture[18]. Honba Ōshima-tsumugi was developed in Amami Oshima, and it is said that this technique was introduced to the Kagoshima mainland in 1874[19]. There are two Honba Oshima Tsumugi unions, one in Amami and the other in Kagoshima City. Kimono produced by the Amami union have a seal with a globe, and those produced by the Kagoshima union have a seal with two flags[20].
Gallery
See also
References
- ^ https://amamioshimatsumugi.com/tsumugi/
- ^ https://amamioshimatsumugi.com/tsumugi/
- ^ http://www.kimono.or.jp/dictionary/eng/ooshimatsumugi.html
- ^ https://artsandculture.google.com/story/honba-oshima-tsumugi-fabric-kyoto-women-s-university/qAUx7n8uomYiIQ?hl=en#:~:text=First%2C%20boil%20the%20finely%20chipped,black%20unique%20to%20Oshima%20Tsumugi.
- ^ https://www.motoji.co.jp/blogs/reading/deichu-no-gin-en
- ^ https://nihonmono.jp/en/article/29406/
- ^ https://cafe-kimono.com/en/all-about-oshima-tsumugi-kimono-details-and-the-way-to-distinguish-types/
- ^ https://www.motoji.co.jp/collections/oshima-tsumugi/products/1016101892
- ^ https://artsandculture.google.com/story/honba-oshima-tsumugi-fabric-kyoto-women-s-university/qAUx7n8uomYiIQ?hl=en
- ^ https://www.google.com/search?q=1300+hisotry+oshima+tsumugi&oq=1300+hisotry+oshima+tsumugi&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyCAgAEEUYFRg5MgkIARAhGAoYoAHSAQg0MDAyajBqNKgCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
- ^ https://amamito.jp/en/traditional/898/
- ^ https://ohshimatsumuginextproject.com/honbaohshimatsumugi-2/#:~:text=Oshima%20Tsumugi%20is%20a%20kimono,been%20made%20since%20ancient%20times.
- ^ https://www.kagoshima-kankou.com/for/highlights/craft/oshima_tsumugi
- ^ https://www.oshima-tsumugi.com/en/#:~:text=%E2%97%8F%20Shimebata,is%20called%20%E2%80%9Ckasuri%20mushiro%E2%80%9D.
- ^ https://amamioshimatsumugi.com/
- ^ https://hirotatsumugi.jp/blogen/post-7845
- ^ https://mtoku.yourweb.csuchico.edu/vc/Exhibitions/ohshima/traditional.html
- ^ http://www.kimono.or.jp/dictionary/eng/ooshimatsumugi.html
- ^ https://kogeijapan.com/locale/en_US/honbaoshimatsumugi/
- ^ https://oshimatsumugi.com/
External links
- Oshima Tsumugi via The Cultural Foundation For Promoting the National Costume of Japan
- 本場奄美大島紬協同組合
- 本場大島紬の里(奄美の里)(都喜ヱ門大島紬美術館)
- 大島紬の歴史を辿る(銀座もとじ 大島紬)