[go: nahoru, domu]
Jump to content

Dave MacLeod: Difference between revisions

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Browse history interactively
← Previous editNext edit →
Content deleted Content added
VisualWikitext
M!dgard (talk | contribs)
310 edits
m →‎Rock climbing: remove confusing and bad-style comma
(17 intermediate revisions by 4 users not shown)
Line 17: Line 17:
| height =
| height =
| weight =
| weight =
| typeofclimber = [[Trad climbing]], [[free solo]], [[bouldering]], [[mixed climbing]]
| typeofclimber = {{flatlist|
* [[Traditional climbing]]
* [[Free solo climbing]]
* [[Bouldering]],
* [[Mixed climbing]]}}
| highestgrade =
| highestgrade =
| highestredpoint = E11 7a [[Trad climbing|trad]]<br>{{Climbing grade|8c}} [[free solo]]<br>{{Climbing grade|9a}} [[sport climbing]]
| highestredpoint = E11 7a [[Trad climbing|traditional]]<br>{{Climbing grade|8b+}} [[free solo]]<br>{{Climbing grade|9a}} [[sport climbing|sport]]
| highestonsight =
| highestonsight =
| highestflash =
| highestflash =
| highestboulder = {{Boulder grade|8C}}
| highestboulder = {{Boulder grade|8C}}
| knownfor = First person to [[free solo]] a {{Climbing grade|8c}} route
| knownfor = Second-ever person to [[free solo]] at {{Climbing grade|8b+}}
| firstascents = {{ubl|''[[Rhapsody (climb)|Rhapsody]]'' (2006, [[Grade (climbing)#British|E11 7a]])|''Echo Wall'' (2008, E10 7a)}}
| firstascents =
| namedroutes =
| namedroutes =
| majorascents = Rhapsody, E11 7a
| majorascents =
| website = {{URL|www.davemacleod.com}}
| website = {{URL|www.davemacleod.com}}
| retired =
| retired =
| updated = 6 November 2017
| updated = 6 November 2017
}}
}}
'''Dave MacLeod''' (born 17 July 1978) is a Scottish [[rock climber]], [[ice climbing|ice climber]], [[mixed climbing|mixed climber]], and climbing author. MacLeod is best known for being the first climber in the world to climb in [[free solo]] style (without rope) an {{Climbing grade|8b+}} route (''Darwin Dixit'' in [[Margalef]], in 2008),<ref name=DarwinDixit1 /><ref name=DarwinDixit2 /> and for climbing one of the hardest [[traditional climbing]] routes in the world (''Rhapsody'' on [[Dumbarton| Dumbarton Rock]], graded E11 7a, in 2006).<ref name=Rhapsody1 /><ref name=Rhapsody2 />
'''Dave MacLeod''' (born 17 July 1978) is a Scottish [[rock climber]], [[ice climbing|ice climber]], [[mixed climbing|mixed climber]], and climbing author. MacLeod was the [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Free-solo by men|second-ever]] person [[free solo]] a {{Climbing grade|8b+}} graded route (''Darwin Dixit'' in [[Margalef]], in 2008),<ref name=DarwinDixit1 /><ref name=DarwinDixit2 /> and for climbing one of the hardest [[traditional climbing]] routes in the world (''[[Rhapsody (climb)|Rhapsody]]'' on [[Dumbarton| Dumbarton Rock]], graded E11 7a, in 2006).<ref name=Rhapsody1 /><ref name=Rhapsody2 />


== Climbing career==
== Climbing career==


===Rock climbing===
===Rock climbing===
[[File:Dumbarton Rock North West Face 02.jpg|thumb|North West face of [[Dumbarton Rock]]. ''[[Rhapsody (climb)|Rhapsody]]'' and ''Requiem'' follow the line of the thin and tallest crack in the centre of the face. ''Rhapsody'' holds the line of the crack all the way to the top, while ''Requiem'' veers right.]]
In April 2006, MacLeod established the climb ''Rhapsody'' on [[Dumbarton| Dumbarton Rock]] which, at a grade of E11 7a, was possibly the hardest [[trad climbing]] route in the world.<ref name=Rhapsody1>{{Cite web|url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=198|title=Dave MacLeod, The Modern Traditionalist – E11|publisher=ukclimbing.com|author=Mick Ryan|date=April 2006|accessdate=24 May 2013}}</ref><ref name=Rhapsody2>{{Cite web|url=http://www.scotsman.com/news/natural-highs-1-1304187|title=Natural Highs|publisher=scotsman.com|date=19 February 2009|accessdate=24 May 2013}}</ref> ''Rhapsody'' is the true finish to the line of ''Requiem'', graded E8 6b. Requiem was climbed in 1983 by Dave Cuthbertson and was one of the hardest rock climbs in the world at the time. It follows a crack-line that fades out to a seam at half height. Requiem follows a flake heading rightwards to finish, while Rhapsody climbs the line of the crack all the way to the top. The top half of the crack gives 8c+ climbing and takes no more protection. MacLeod took many long falls from this runout, three from the last move in which he fell 70 feet and injured himself by hitting the rock at the end of the fall. In 2008 [[Steve McClure]] made the third ascent of Rhapsody and confirmed the grade.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=44787|title=E11 is...?|publisher=ukclimbing.com|author=Steve McClure|date=June 2008|accessdate=24 May 2013}}</ref> The ascent of Rhapsody is the subject of the movie ''E11'' (2006) directed by Paul Diffley and produced by Hot Aches Productions. MacLeod has since featured in several more climbing films by Hot Aches Productions.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=251|title=E11 – The Movie|publisher=ukclimbing.com|author=Mick Ryan|date=October 2006|accessdate=24 May 2013}}</ref>
In April 2006, MacLeod established the climb ''[[Rhapsody (climb)|Rhapsody]]'' on [[Dumbarton| Dumbarton Rock]] which, at a grade of [[Grade (climbing)#British|E11 7a]], was the hardest [[traditional climbing]] route in the world at the time.<ref name=Rhapsody1>{{Cite web|url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=198|title=Dave MacLeod, The Modern Traditionalist – E11|publisher=ukclimbing.com|author=Mick Ryan|date=April 2006|accessdate=24 May 2013}}</ref><ref name=Rhapsody2>{{Cite web|url=http://www.scotsman.com/news/natural-highs-1-1304187|title=Natural Highs|publisher=scotsman.com|date=19 February 2009|accessdate=24 May 2013}}</ref> The ascent of ''Rhapsody'' is the subject of the movie ''E11'' (2006) directed by Paul Diffley and produced by Hot Aches Productions.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=251|title=E11 – The Movie|publisher=ukclimbing.com|author=Mick Ryan|date=October 2006|accessdate=24 May 2013}}</ref>


In 2008, MacLeod became the first climber in history to free solo a route graded {{Climbing grade|8c}} (''Darwin Dixit'' in [[Margalef]]).<ref name=DarwinDixit1>{{Cite web|url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=868|title=Dave Macleod – 8b+ Solo – Interview|publisher=ukclimbing.com|author=Jack Geldard|date=March 2008|accessdate=24 May 2013}}</ref><ref name=DarwinDixit2>{{Cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/news/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=36096|title=Dave Macleod 8c solo at Margalef, Don't Die of Ignorance XI,11 first ascent on Ben Nevis|publisher=planetmountain.com|date=21 March 2008|accessdate=24 May 2013}}</ref>
In 2008, MacLeod became the [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Free-solo by men|second-ever]] person [[free solo]] an {{Climbing grade|8b+}} graded route (''Darwin Dixit'' in [[Margalef]]).<ref name=DarwinDixit1>{{Cite web|url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=868|title=Dave Macleod – 8b+ Solo – Interview|publisher=ukclimbing.com|author=Jack Geldard|date=March 2008|accessdate=24 May 2013}}</ref><ref name=DarwinDixit2>{{Cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/news/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=36096|title=Dave Macleod 8c solo at Margalef, Don't Die of Ignorance XI,11 first ascent on Ben Nevis|publisher=planetmountain.com|date=21 March 2008|accessdate=24 May 2013}}</ref>


In 2008, MacLeod completed the traditional rock climb ''Echo Wall'', an extreme and as-yet ungraded rock climb on [[Ben Nevis]], which took two years of preparation.<ref>{{cite web |url = http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08x/newswire-echo-wall-macleod |title=MacLeod's Boldest: Echo Wall |publisher=Alpinist.com| accessdate = 22 February 2006}}</ref> MacLeod described Echo Wall as harder than Rhapsody but left the route ungraded in a possible attempt to avoid the earlier controversy surrounding the E11 grade.
In 2008, MacLeod completed the traditional rock climb ''Echo Wall'', an extreme and as-yet ungraded rock climb on [[Ben Nevis]], which took two years of preparation.<ref>{{cite web |url = http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08x/newswire-echo-wall-macleod |title=MacLeod's Boldest: Echo Wall |publisher=Alpinist.com| accessdate = 22 February 2006}}</ref> MacLeod left the route ungraded but in 2024, suggested a grade of E10 7a for the route.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-48S7gLP_I?t=1254|title=How I grade the hardest trad routes}}</ref>


In addition to his achievements in traditional rock climbing, MacLeod has also successfully created and completed [[sport climbing]] routes and projects up to the grade of {{Climbing grade|9a}} (''A Muerte'' at [[Siurana (Tarragona)|Siurana]], in 2007)<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=41388|title=Dave MacLeod – A Muerte F9a|publisher=ukclimbing.com|author=Mick Ryan|date=November 2007|accessdate=24 May 2013}}</ref> and has established [[bouldering]] problems up to the grade of {{Boulder grade|8B+}} (''Natural Method'' on the Skeleton Boulder at [[Glen Nevis]] in 2012).<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2012/05/dave_macleod_the_natural_method-67136|title=Dave MacLeod, The Natural Method|publisher=ukclimbing.com|date=May 2012|accessdate=29 March 2018}}</ref>
In addition to his achievements in traditional rock climbing, MacLeod has also successfully created and completed [[sport climbing]] routes and projects up to the grade of {{Climbing grade|9a}} (''A Muerte'' at [[Siurana (Tarragona)|Siurana]], in 2007)<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=41388|title=Dave MacLeod – A Muerte F9a|publisher=ukclimbing.com|author=Mick Ryan|date=November 2007|accessdate=24 May 2013}}</ref> and has established [[bouldering]] problems up to the grade of {{Boulder grade|8B+}} (''Natural Method'' on the Skeleton Boulder at [[Glen Nevis]] in 2012).<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2012/05/dave_macleod_the_natural_method-67136|title=Dave MacLeod, The Natural Method|publisher=ukclimbing.com|date=May 2012|accessdate=29 March 2018}}</ref>
Line 48: Line 53:
===Mixed climbing===
===Mixed climbing===


MacLeod has also established hard routes in [[mixed climbing]] with ice axes and crampons, climbing ''Good Training for Something'' with Canadian climber [[Will Gadd]] at a grade of M12. In 2005, he established the hardest traditional mixed climbing route in the world at the time, ''The Hurting'' in [[Coire an t-Sneachda]], [[Cairngorms]].<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews.lasso?l=2&keyid=34756|title=MacLeod climbs Scottish XI 11|publisher=planetmountain.com|date=9 March 2005|accessdate=24 May 2013}}</ref> The route has been repeated a few times<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=60093|title=Andy Turner on The Hurting|publisher=ukclimbing.com|author=Jack Geldard|date=February 2011|accessdate=24 May 2013}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=60515|title=Greg Boswell Repeats The Hurting XI,11|publisher=ukclimbing.com|author=Jack Geldard|date=February 2011|accessdate=24 May 2013}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=39133|title=Dani Arnold repeats The Hurting in Scotland|publisher=planetmountain.com|date=8 February 2012|accessdate=24 May 2013}}</ref> and has a [[Scottish winter grade]] of XI,11 (M9+/M10)<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.climbing.com/news/trad-m10-in-scotland/|title=Trad M10 in Scotland|publisher=climbing.com|author=Dougald MacDonald|accessdate=24 May 2013}}</ref> with hard, technical climbing over very poor protection.
MacLeod has also established hard routes in [[mixed climbing]] with ice axes and crampons, climbing ''Good Training for Something'' with Canadian climber [[Will Gadd]] at a grade of [[Grade (climbing)#M-grade|M12]]. In 2005, he established the hardest traditional mixed climbing route in the world at the time, ''The Hurting'' in [[Coire an t-Sneachda]], [[Cairngorms]].<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews.lasso?l=2&keyid=34756|title=MacLeod climbs Scottish XI 11|publisher=planetmountain.com|date=9 March 2005|accessdate=24 May 2013}}</ref> The route has been repeated a few times<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=60093|title=Andy Turner on The Hurting|publisher=ukclimbing.com|author=Jack Geldard|date=February 2011|accessdate=24 May 2013}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=60515|title=Greg Boswell Repeats The Hurting XI,11|publisher=ukclimbing.com|author=Jack Geldard|date=February 2011|accessdate=24 May 2013}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=39133|title=Dani Arnold repeats The Hurting in Scotland|publisher=planetmountain.com|date=8 February 2012|accessdate=24 May 2013}}</ref> and has a [[Scottish winter grade]] of XI,11 (M9+/M10)<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.climbing.com/news/trad-m10-in-scotland/|title=Trad M10 in Scotland|publisher=climbing.com|author=Dougald MacDonald|accessdate=24 May 2013}}</ref> with hard, technical climbing over very poor protection.


===Writing===
===Writing===
Line 101: Line 106:
[[Category:Free soloists]]
[[Category:Free soloists]]
[[Category:Ice climbers]]
[[Category:Ice climbers]]
[[Category:Trad climbers]]

Revision as of 02:59, 12 July 2024

Dave MacLeod
Personal information
NationalityScottish
Born (1978-07-17) 17 July 1978 (age 46)
EducationBSc in Physiology & Sports Science (Glasgow University), MSc in Medicine and Science in Sport & Exercise (Glasgow University), MSc in Human Nutrition (Glasgow University)
Websitewww.davemacleod.com
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known forSecond-ever person to free solo at 8b+ (5.14a)
First ascents
Updated on 6 November 2017

Dave MacLeod (born 17 July 1978) is a Scottish rock climber, ice climber, mixed climber, and climbing author. MacLeod was the second-ever person free solo a 8b+ (5.14a) graded route (Darwin Dixit in Margalef, in 2008),[1][2] and for climbing one of the hardest traditional climbing routes in the world (Rhapsody on Dumbarton Rock, graded E11 7a, in 2006).[3][4]

Climbing career

Rock climbing

North West face of Dumbarton Rock. Rhapsody and Requiem follow the line of the thin and tallest crack in the centre of the face. Rhapsody holds the line of the crack all the way to the top, while Requiem veers right.

In April 2006, MacLeod established the climb Rhapsody on Dumbarton Rock which, at a grade of E11 7a, was the hardest traditional climbing route in the world at the time.[3][4] The ascent of Rhapsody is the subject of the movie E11 (2006) directed by Paul Diffley and produced by Hot Aches Productions.[5]

In 2008, MacLeod became the second-ever person free solo an 8b+ (5.14a) graded route (Darwin Dixit in Margalef).[1][2]

In 2008, MacLeod completed the traditional rock climb Echo Wall, an extreme and as-yet ungraded rock climb on Ben Nevis, which took two years of preparation.[6] MacLeod left the route ungraded but in 2024, suggested a grade of E10 7a for the route.[7]

In addition to his achievements in traditional rock climbing, MacLeod has also successfully created and completed sport climbing routes and projects up to the grade of 9a (5.14d) (A Muerte at Siurana, in 2007)[8] and has established bouldering problems up to the grade of 8B+ (V14) (Natural Method on the Skeleton Boulder at Glen Nevis in 2012).[9]

On 28 August 2010, MacLeod and Tim Emmett established the route The Usual Suspects on Sron Uladail on Harris, provisionally graded E9 7a, in an ascent broadcast live on BBC Two Scotland.[10] As part of their preparation, MacLeod and Emmett successfully established five new routes on five Hebridean islands (counting Lewis with Harris as two separate islands) in five days, an achievement documented in the BBC Scotland series 5 Climbs, 5 Islands (later released on DVD as Triple 5).[11] MacLeod has continued his association with BBC Scotland, filming The First Great Climb (broadcast on 22 November 2011), in which he replicated a successful 1876 attempt on the Stack of Handa using the type of equipment that would have been available at the time, and Climbing – No Limits! (broadcast on 12 April 2012), establishing new routes in the Yorkshire Dales and the Peak District.

Mixed climbing

MacLeod has also established hard routes in mixed climbing with ice axes and crampons, climbing Good Training for Something with Canadian climber Will Gadd at a grade of M12. In 2005, he established the hardest traditional mixed climbing route in the world at the time, The Hurting in Coire an t-Sneachda, Cairngorms.[12] The route has been repeated a few times[13][14][15] and has a Scottish winter grade of XI,11 (M9+/M10)[16] with hard, technical climbing over very poor protection.

Writing

In December 2009, Macleod's book 9 Out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes: Navigation Through the Maze of Advice for the Self-coached Climber was published. In 2015, Macleod's book Make or Break: Don't Let Climbing Injuries Dictate Your Success was published.

Bibliography

  • MacLeod, Dave (2009). 9 Out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes. Rare Breed Productions. ISBN 978-0956428103.
  • MacLeod, Dave (2015). Make or Break: Don't Let Climbing Injuries Dictate Your Success. Rare Breed Productions. ISBN 978-0956428134.

See also

References

  1. ^ a b Jack Geldard (March 2008). "Dave Macleod – 8b+ Solo – Interview". ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 24 May 2013.
  2. ^ a b "Dave Macleod 8c solo at Margalef, Don't Die of Ignorance XI,11 first ascent on Ben Nevis". planetmountain.com. 21 March 2008. Retrieved 24 May 2013.
  3. ^ a b Mick Ryan (April 2006). "Dave MacLeod, The Modern Traditionalist – E11". ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 24 May 2013.
  4. ^ a b "Natural Highs". scotsman.com. 19 February 2009. Retrieved 24 May 2013.
  5. ^ Mick Ryan (October 2006). "E11 – The Movie". ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 24 May 2013.
  6. ^ "MacLeod's Boldest: Echo Wall". Alpinist.com. Retrieved 22 February 2006.
  7. ^ "How I grade the hardest trad routes".
  8. ^ Mick Ryan (November 2007). "Dave MacLeod – A Muerte F9a". ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 24 May 2013.
  9. ^ "Dave MacLeod, The Natural Method". ukclimbing.com. May 2012. Retrieved 29 March 2018.
  10. ^ Mick Ryan (August 2010). "MacLeod and Emmett's Great Climb on BBC iPlayer". ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 24 May 2013.
  11. ^ "5 Climbs, 5 Islands". bbc.co.uk. Retrieved 24 May 2013.
  12. ^ "MacLeod climbs Scottish XI 11". planetmountain.com. 9 March 2005. Retrieved 24 May 2013.
  13. ^ Jack Geldard (February 2011). "Andy Turner on The Hurting". ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 24 May 2013.
  14. ^ Jack Geldard (February 2011). "Greg Boswell Repeats The Hurting XI,11". ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 24 May 2013.
  15. ^ "Dani Arnold repeats The Hurting in Scotland". planetmountain.com. 8 February 2012. Retrieved 24 May 2013.
  16. ^ Dougald MacDonald. "Trad M10 in Scotland". climbing.com. Retrieved 24 May 2013.
Retrieved from "https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Dave_MacLeod&oldid=1234009192"