Pisco: Difference between revisions

For other uses, see Pisco (disambiguation).

Some bottles of pisco

Pisco (from Quechua: pisqu, little bird) is a liquor distilled from grapes (a brandy) made in wine-producing regions of South America. It is the most widely consumed spirit in Peru and Chile. The iconic cocktail in these countries is the pisco sour.

History

Origins

The first vineyards in the Viceroyalty of Peru were planted in the fertile coastal valleys of Peru shortly after the arrival of the Spanish Conquistadores. The Marquis Francisco de Caravantes was the first to import grapes, bringing them from the Canary Islands in 1553. Even though Spain imposed many restrictions on wine production and commerce, the wine-making industry developed rapidly, mainly in the Corregimiento of Ica in Peru.

In the late 1530s, the Spanish began to plant and harvest grapes for wine in the southern regions of what is now Peru. Grapes were selected for their quality to produce wine of what today would be called "export quality", while those that did not measure up were discarded or given to the farmers to do as the please. It is in this context that small groups began use these grapes to distill a brandy-like liquor from the discarded grapes, using similar techniques to those of Chicha production.

The oldest written historical record of grape brandy production in the Spanish colonies date back to Peru 1613. It is the will of a resident of Ica named Pedro Manuel the Greek. In it he itemizes his wordly goods, including 30 containers of grape brandy, one barrel of the same spirit, a large copper pot and all of the utensils needed to produce pisco.

This was considered a lesser beverage by the Spanish and not consumed by them unless they were poor or simply curious. However, one vineyard owner decided to designate an area of his lands exclusively to this brandy (which did not yet have a name, although it is reported the Spanish called it "fire-wine").

The drink began to acquire consumers in the sailors that transported products between the colonies and Spain, who began to call it pisco, naming it after the port where it could be bought. The drink then became a favorite of sailors and workers who visited the port of Pisco, exalting it for its strong taste and ability to quickly affect the consumer. As trade from Peru to the world grew, so did the popularity of Pisco, until it almost equaled wine in quantity as an export.

In 1641, wine imports from Peru into Spain were banned, severely damaging the wine industry in the colony; only a few vineyards that did not have parallel wine and Pisco operations survived this change. Those that did began to concentrate on pisco production, nearly eliminating wine production in Peru.

During the 18th and 19th centuries, pisco was a mainstay on ocean-crossing vessels, drank mostly by sailors, as crew usually drank whisky or other "finer" spirits. The main reasons for its heyday were the low price and high availability. This position was maintained by Pisco until the onset of rum, winning over consumers with lower prices and a softer flavor.

Pisco was also briefly popular in San Francisco and nearby areas of California during the Gold Rush in the 19th century, to where it was introduced by Peruvian and Chilean miners.

Etymology

File:Piskos-Container for Pisco.jpg

Piskos

The origins of the word pisco can be traced to the quechua language where the birds that inhabited the valleys of the Ica region were called pisco, pisku, phishgo, pichiu or pisccu (pisqu' in modern quechua alphabet).

The valley that was later to be named Pisco was settled by people who, during the Inca Empire were to become known as piskos. One of the main products they provided were the containers used to store beverages. These containers were also known as piskos. The first grape brandy to be produced was stored in piskos, and as time went by, the beverage came to be known by the name given to its container.

Modern History

After the South American independence period, vineyards whose main product was Pisco were located solely in what was then Peru, due to geographical and political divisions left by the Spaniards. However, during the War of the Pacific, Peru was effectively defeated and became an occupied nation until the Treaty of Ancon in 1883, ceded the desertic area of Tarapaca to Chile; this desertic area was used to produce a Pisco adapting the Peruvian techniques. In the occupation years, the attempts by Chile to convert the people of the occupied territories to chilean sentiments, combined with the constant uprisings by peruvian nationalists led to a severe disruption in Pisco production in the entire Atacama region. It was not until several years later, in 1929, that definitive boundaries were established and the situation began to calm.

In the years between the 1880s and the 1940s, Pisco production was severely hampered, in Peru due to the national reconstruction taking place and the widespread misery due to the destruction of the nation's production, military and political infrastructure; and in Chile because of the aforementioned instability in the region.

Peru

Pisco production began to expand once again the 1940s, thanks to economic and social stability in the country, mainly due to its copper and gold exports. Production ramped up and Peru began to export Pisco as a national product at that time, however, due to the nation's focus on raw materials exports, Pisco was not given much prominence. National sentiment began to flare up in the 1960s when Chile decided to ban all imports of any product denominated "Pisco" coming from Peru. From that time on, Peru has been constantly trying to enforce the denomination of "Pisco" as a Peruvian-only product, beginning at first with internal rules and regulations pertaining to the harvesting of grapes, distillation and storage requirements for a product to be named "Pisco", and finally establishing trademarks and other legal processes. Actually Peru has succeed partially after a favourable enactment of the WIPO (World Intellectual Property Organization) and at this time there are 23 countries which recognize Pisco as a Peruvian product. But the legal fight still goes on.

Chile

During the time that Pisco production in Chile was effectively halted, wine production in the province of Antofagasta was growing rapidly. Using the existing nitrate and saltpeter ports in the region, they began to export wine in large quantities. Given the prime location for vineyards in northern Chile, this wine quickly became respected and exports grew quite quickly, establishing Chilean wine as second only to Argentine wine in the Americas. Once the Atacama region established its borders and civility returned to the region, Pisco production returned, and existing wine export routes were used for Pisco. This gave Chile an immense advantage over Peruvian producers, since Chile had the experience and credibility as a beverage exporter, plus many established contacts and retail venues for their product; the fact that Peru had been pushing Pisco as a quality product also enabled Chile to piggy-back on this venture and overwhelm their competitors. However, the differences between the products led to conflicts with consumers who had become familiar with Peruvian pisco and viewed the Chilean product as of lesser quality. This prompted Chile to halt Pisco imports from Peru in 1961 and begin a campaign offering "Pisco Chile" as an alternative to Peruvian Pisco.

Varieties

Early Production

The black grape taken to Peru by the Spanish suffered due to its adaptation to soil and weather conditions in the Province of Pisco, eventually stabilizing in a new variety named "Quebranta", purportedly named because the original grape was "broken" (Spanish quebrar), or tamed, for its new environment. Almost all early pisco was produced from this variety of grape, others used any grape available at the time. However, since only the largest (and those with dedicated pisco distilleries) vineyards were able to produce exportable volume, Quebranta was the only variety exported, since it was the preferred grape for pisco production.

Peruvian Pisco

In the years following the re-establishment of pisco production, many grapes were used to produce pisco, leading to a wide variation in flavor, aroma, viscosity and appearance of the licor. This harmed attempts to export the product under a single denomination since there could be enormous differences between the contents of bottles sold as pisco. As such, a number of regulations were established to counteract this situation and set a baseline for a product to carry the name.

Four levels of pisco were thus designated:

• Pure, made from a single variety of grape, mostly Quebranta, although Mollar or Common Black can be used, however, no blending between varietes is accepted, "Pure" Pisco should contain only one variety of grape.
• Aromatic, made from Muscat or Muscat-derived grape varietes, and also from Italia and Torontel grapes varieties; once again, the pisco should only contain one variety of grape in any production lot.
• Green Must, distilled from partially fermented must, this must be distilled before the fermentation process has transformed sugars into alcohol.
• Acholado (Half-breeded), blended from the must of several varieties of grape.

The order is not established on quality, it is simply listed in that way in Peruvian publications.

Some other specific restrictions of note are:

• Aging, Pisco must be aged for a minimum of three months in vessels of "glass, stainless steel or any other material which does not alter its physical, chemical or organic properties".
• Additives, no additives of any kind may be added to the Pisco that could alter its flavor, odor, appereance or graduation.

Pure pisco is a very viscous liquid, slightly more so than vodka and comparable to Sambuca. It has an odor which is vaguely reminiscent of reeds. Its flavor is very smooth and almost non-alcoholic, which can be very deceptive, with the result that many first-time drinkers often overdrink and can quickly become inebriated without noticing. Some people consider it heresy to mix pure pisco with anything else, and it is generally accepted that it should be drunk alone, even to the exclusion of ice.

Acholado is gaining popularity due to its sweetness, both in odor and flavor, making it a favorite for Pisco sour, a mixed drink. The Acholado variety is also preferred due to its "kick", which can be felt immediately after drinking, one can literally feel the drink making its way to the stomach.

Green Must is accepted as a poor man's pisco, not generally seen in high-income environments. Its taste is very strong, as is its odor, and can be quite pungent if left to breathe for a large amount of time.

Aromatic is rarely seen nowadays, as its production has almost ceased in Peru, since according to Peruvian specifications, Chilean pisco would be classified as Aromatic. See the Chilean pisco section for more information.

Chilean Pisco

During the adaptation of many vineyards to Pisco production, the most widespread grape was used as raw material, namely the Muscat, with some vineyards preferring the Torontel and Pedro Jiménez varieties. As is the case with Peru, regulations for Pisco designations have been enacted in Chile:

• Regular, 30° to 35° (60 to 70 proof).
• Special, 35° to 40° (70 to 80 proof).
• Reserve, 40° to 43° (80 to 86 proof).
• Great, 43° or more (86 or more proof).

No distinction between varietal mixes is made other than it is restricted to the three kinds of grapes named before.

Regular Pisco is quite bland in taste, reminiscent of a weak rum, and its odor is very sweet and woody with a slight yellowish tinge to the color.

Special and Reserve are very similar in flavor and color, both being very sweet and of a cloudy yellowish color. The flavor is much stronger than Regular Pisco and leaves an alcoholic aftertaste in the mouth, similar to bourbon.

Great Pisco has a commanding odor and a very pleasant dark yellow color, it is not as sweet as the other varieties, yet it carries strong woody flavor the others lack, probably due to longer aging.

Comparison

	PERU	CHILE
Definition	Firewater obtained exclusively from the distillation of recently fermented "Pisco Grapes", using methods which maintain the traditional principles of quality established in recognized production areas.	...is reserved to firewater produced and bottled, in consumable quantities, in Regions III and IV, elaborated by the distillation of geniune wine, originating from specified varietals, grown in said regions.
Grapes	Non Aromatic: Quebranta, Common Black, Mollar Aromatic: Italia, Muscat, Albilla, Torontel.	Yellow Muscat, White Early Muscat, Alexandria Muscat, Austrian Muscat, Frontignan Muscat, Hamburg Muscat, Black Muscat, Pink Muscat, Canelli Muscat, Orange Muscat, Pedro Jiménez , Torontel.
Production	The fermentation process can be done with partial or total maceration of the grape, strictly controlling the temperature and decomposition of sugars.	The grape juice is fermented into wine containing 14° alcohol (28 proof).
	The fermented product is distilled in copper or stainless steel recipientes to the desired gradiation. No product may be added to alter the gradiation, odor, flavor or color of the liquid.	The fermented product is distilled in copper recipients until a gradiation of 55° to 60° is reached. Rectifiers must be added if alcohol gradiation is less than specified.
	The Pisco must be aged a minimum of three months in glass, stainless steel or other materials which do not alter the physical, chemical or organic propierties before bottling.	The crude firewater is aged in wood recipients for a short time, usually not more than a few months. Higher quality brands may be aged in oak barrels for a longer time.
	The Pisco must be bottled directly after aging, without alteration or adding any product which could alter the odor, flavor or appeareance.	The firewater from different distilleries is mixed, diluted with demineralized water in order to lower the gradiation to the desired level, filtered and bottled.
Alcohol Content	38° to 48° (76 to 96 proof)	No less than 30° (60 proof)
Designated Pisco Areas	Departments of Lima, Ica, Arequipa, Moquegua and the Locumba, Sama and Caplina valleys in the Department of Tacna.	Atacama, Coquimbo.

• NOTE: the Peruvian regulation specifically refers to "Pisco" throughout the document; the Chilean regulation mentions it as aguardiente (brandy or "firewater") when referring to Pisco in general and only mentions "Pisco" when referring to a specific variety (such as "Reserve Pisco").

Dispute

There is an ongoing debate between Peru and Chile as to the rightful owner of the "Pisco" denomination, as it can be clearly seen by the specifications listed above, there is a difference between the products. Peru claims propietorship on the basis of historical arguments, mainly that Pisco originated in Peru and is still made in the traditional way only in Peru, where the regulations ensure this, many also push the argument that Chile simply "stole" Pisco production from Peru during the War of the Pacific and, therefore, cannot claim it as a national product. Chile claims that its larger production and marketing efforts have popularized Pisco, and that what the world recognizes as Pisco today is the chilean variety.

Both nations have established decrees, laws, regulations, treaties, etc. in order to protect their pisco product as the canonical Pisco, though their efforts have been markedly opposite. Chile has concentrated on internal regulations, specifying from what a "Pisco Grape" is to what a "Pisco Bottle" is, in order to establish standardization among its products. Peru, on the other hand, has focused on the international arena, preferring to establish trademarks and treaties with other nations in order to cement its status as a purely peruvian product; though years after Chile standardized everything relating to Pisco internally, Peru has begun to do the same and has succeed partially after a favourable enactment of the WIPO (World Intellectual Property Organization) and at this time there are 23 countries which recognize Pisco as a Peruvian product. But the legal fight still goes on.

Chile actions

• 1916 - 1954: Chilean Pisco is exempt from all taxes imposed on alcoholic beverages.
• 1931: Law Decree 181 defines Pisco as distilled wine brandy produced in Regions III & IV
• 1936: Law Decree 5.798 changes the name of "La Unión" to "Pisco Elqui" to associate it with Pisco production.
• 1954 - 1974: Chilean Pisco is taxed at 50% the rate for all alcoholic beverages.
• 1974: Law Decree 826 establishes a 40% tax on national alcoholic beverages and a 90% tax on all imported alcoholic beverages.
• 1977; Law Decree 2.057 reduces the tax on Pisco to 25% and to 30% for all other alcoholic beverages.
• 1983: Tax on non-Pisco alcoholic beverages increased to 50%
• 1984: Tax on Whisked increased to 55%, all other alcoholic beverages except Pisco lowered to 30%, Pisco remains at 25%
• 1985: Law Decree 18.455 establishes Pisco as reserved to firewater produced and bottled, in consumable quantities, in Regions III and IV, elaborated by the distillation of geniune wine, originating from specified varietals, grown in said regions.
• 1986: Supreme Decree 78 establishes allowed additives, grape varieties and zones for production of firewater to be named "Pisco". It also designates the different varieties of Pisco according to alcoholic gradation. This also establishes that the 'only' difference between the varieties is the alcohol content.
• 1998: Creates a de facto monopoly by fusing the two largest pisco manufacturers, whose combined market share is 98%.
• 1997: Law Decree 19.534 establishes Pisco tax at 25%, Whisky at 70% and all other alcoholic beverages at 30%, imported alcoholic beverages add a 50% tax.

International

• 1999 - 2005: In a series of Trade Agreements, Chile introduces text referring to "Chilean Pisco" as a national product of Chile, without predjudice to denominating any product from Peru as "Pisco".

Peru actions

• 1932: Supreme Resolution N° 52, restricts the use of the designation "grape based brandy".
• 1931: Makes it compulsory to serve Peruvian wines and liquors in official acts held in the Government House.
• 1940: Ministerial Resolution, prohibits the admission of cane brandy to the viticulture area of Pisco.
• 1941: Supreme Resolution N° 151, stipulates the restricted use of grape brandy and cognac.
• 1946: Supreme Resolution N° 1207, defines the designations of Pisco, Grape-based Aguardiente and others.
• 1947: Ministerial Resolution, ratifies the prohibitions regarding the use of sugar in manufacturing molasses, spirits, brandy and wine.
• 1950: Director’s Resolution N° 13, points out the date and terms for distillation of musts, watery wines and for washing spirits in the preparation process of grape based brandy.
• 1963: Sanitary Code of Foods in which PISCO is defined as the product obtained from the distillation of grape fermented musts.
• 1963: Law N° 14729, establishes a 4% tax rate upon the gross trade value of alcoholic beverages in Peru, exempting Pisco. This measure was taken as a means of fostering its preparation. This Law stipulates that this tax affects cane brandys, wine, spirits, beers and any kind of alcoholic beverage and similar, exempting Peruvian grapebased Pisco and Wine.
• 1964: Supreme Resolution N° 519-H, establishes the use of visible signs that make it easy for payment of taxes on the sale of alcoholic beverages.
• 1988: Resolution No. 179, issued by the National Institute of Culture where the word PISCO is declared National Cultural Heritage.
• 1990: Supreme Decree N° 023-90, stipulates that denominations of origin should be recognized by ITINTEC, thus including the above-mentioned principle in Peruvian Law.
• 1990: Director’s Resolution N° 072087-DIPI, issued by the Industrial Property Bureau, states that the designation of PISCO has a Peruvian origin and refers to products resulting from the distillation of wines derived from the fermentation of fresh grapes in the coastline of the Lima, Ica, Arequipa, Moquegua departments, and the valleys of Locumba, Sama and Caplina in the Tacna Department.
• 1991: Supreme Decree N° 001-91-ICTI/IND, officially recognized Pisco as a denomination of Peruvian origin for products obtained by distillation of wine derived from the fermentation of fresh grapes in the coastline of Lima, Ica, Arequipa, Moquegua and the valleys of Locumba, Sama and Caplina in the department of Tacna.
• 1995: Law N° 26426, regulates the production and commercialization of national alcoholic beverages.
• 2001: Supreme Resolution Nº 247-2001-Itinci, establishes the Multisectorial Committee in charge of preparing a regulatory proposal corresponding to the creation of Ruling Councils and the Ruling Council of the Denomination of Origin Pisco.

International

• Bolivia: Resolution Nº OPIB/D.O/01/98 from the Intellectual Property Bureau of Bolivia dated January 5, 1998.
• Ecuador: Resolution Nº 0962384 of the Industrial Property National Bureau, published in January 15, 1998.
• Colombia: Resolution No. 01529 of the Superintendence of Industry and Commerce of Colombia dated February 1, 1999.
• Venezuela: Resolution Nº 0345 of the Autonomous Service of Intellectual Property published in the Bulletin of Industrial Property of Venezuela dated May 8, 1998.
• Panama: Decree Nº 1628 of the General Bureau of Registry of Intellectual Property of the Ministry of Commerce and Industry by which Resolution No. 8871 No. 8871 dated July 27, 1999 is issued.
• Guatemala: Final Resolutions of files 2801-97 and 2802-97 of the Registry of Intellectual Property dated June 12, 1998.
• Nicaragua: Resolution No. 2911435 of the Ministry of Promotion, Industry and Commerce dated September 1, 1999.
• Costa Rica: Registry No 114662 of the Registry of Intellectual Property of the Ministry of Justice and Grace dated July 2. 1999.
• Cuba: Agreement entered between the Government of the Republic of Peru and the Republic of Cuba regarding the mutual recognition of protection of their denominations of origin dated October 10, 2000.
• World Intellectual Property Organization recognizes the "pisco" denomination as a beverage of Peruvian origin (Registry 065, July 2005). Such recognition applies to all states signing the Lisboa Treaty, and provides them one year to comply with such ruling. (see further at World Intellectual Property Organization)

External links

• Pisco Capel (Chile)
• Defense of the Peruvian denomination of origin, Embassy of Peru (.pdf)
• Pisco Liquer Dispute between Chile and Peru
• About.com
• Pisco Ica valley
• Pisco en Peru
• Pisco information, Peru
• Pisco