[go: nahoru, domu]
Jump to content

Thomasina Pidgeon: Difference between revisions

Add links
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Browse history interactively
← Previous edit
Content deleted Content added
VisualWikitext
rm embedded urls
 
(48 intermediate revisions by 33 users not shown)
Line 1: Line 1:
{{short description|Canadian rock climber (born 1975)}}
{{Orphan|date=September 2011}}
{{cleanup reorganize|date=January 2023}}

{{Cleanup bare URLs|date=August 2022}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=October 2021}}
{{Infobox person
{{Infobox person
|name = Thomasina Pidgeon
|name = Thomasina Pidgeon
Line 6: Line 8:
|alt =
|alt =
|caption =
|caption =
|birth_date = March 28, 1975
|birth_date = {{birth date and age|1975|3|28|df=y}}
|birth_place = [[Newfoundland]]
|birth_place = [[Newfoundland (island)|Newfoundland]]
|death_date = <!-- {{Death date and age|YYYY|MM|DD|YYYY|MM|DD}} -->
|death_date = <!-- {{Death date and age|df=yes|YYYY|MM|DD|YYYY|MM|DD}} -->
|death_place =
|death_place =
|other_names =
|other_names =
|known_for = Bouldering
|known_for = Bouldering
|occupation = Rock Climber
|occupation = Rock Climber
|ex-spouse =
|spouse =
|nationality = Canadian
|nationality = Canadian
}}
}}


'''Darlene Thomasina Pidgeon''' (born 1975) is a [[rock climber]] known for being one of the world's strongest female boulderers, the strongest female Canadian boulderer, and the first Canadian female to climb the grades of V10, V11, and V12.<ref>http://gripped.com/2009/08/sections/articles/sh-and-motherhood/</ref> She is often featured in [http://gripped.com/search/?issue=0&category=0&keyword=thomasina&s= Gripped Magazine] and contributes to [http://climbingcollective.com/contributors/thomasina-pidgeon/ The Collective] (a multi-climber website). She has also been featured in several international magazines and websites and her image has been used in advertising, magazine galleries, and magazine covers.
'''Darlene Thomasina Pidgeon''' (born 1975) is a Canadian [[rock climber]] known for being one of the world's strongest female boulderers in the early 2000s and 2010s, was for a time the strongest female Canadian boulderer, and was the first Canadian female to climb the grades of V10, V11, and V12.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://gripped.com/2009/08/sections/articles/sh-and-motherhood/|title=Thomasina Pidgeon on V12, Squamish and Motherhood - Gripped Magazine|date=15 July 2015|publisher=Gripped}}</ref> She is often featured in [http://gripped.com/search/?issue=0&category=0&keyword=thomasina&s= Gripped Magazine] and contributes to [http://climbingcollective.com/contributors/thomasina-pidgeon/ The Collective] (a multi-climber website). She has also been featured in several international magazines and websites and her image has been used in advertising, magazine galleries, and magazine covers.


Thomasina is also a mother (her daughter Cedar travels around with her), a doula, sews and sells clothing, shopping bags, and other crafts, and works as a [http://www.flickr.com/photos/thomasinapidgeon photographer]. She is one of 5 athletes to be featured in The Season 2, a 22 episode web tv show running this fall.<ref>The Season 2, a 22 episode web tv show running this fallhttp://www.theseasontv.com/</ref>
Thomasina is also a mother (her daughter Cedar travels around with her), a writer, a doula, sews and sells clothing, shopping bags, and other crafts, and works as a photographer. She is one of 5 athletes to be featured in The Season 2, a 22 episode web TV show.<ref>The Season 2, a 22 episode web tv show running this fall http://www.theseasontv.com/</ref>


==Beginnings==
==Beginnings==
Pidgeon started climbing near [[Flatrock, Newfoundland and Labrador|Flatrock]] in her early 20's on a trip home to her native Newfoundland. Soon after she moved to [[Whistler, British Columbia]], and climbed occasionally at small local sport climbing areas like Nordic Rock and Rogue's Gallery while working several jobs with the goal of visiting Europe for an extended trip. With the money she'd saved she got a working visa and went on a year-and-a-half long trip to Wales, Ireland, parts of Eastern Europe, and Morocco. She learned to [[Traditional climbing|traditional climb]] in [[Rock climbing in Wales|Wales]], but most of the trip was spent visiting new places. She returned to Canada, moved to Kelowna, and began studying sciences at Okangon University College. She continued climbing while in school and after a year and a half she moved to Vancouver to work and climb as much as possible. She got a job at Mountain Equipment Co-op and began climbing at The Edge climbing gym in Vancouver. She injured her shoulder, kept climbing on it, and eventually was unable to lift her arm above shoulder level. After a year off of climbing her arm had not improved so she visited a physio-therapist and with the exercises he taught her she was able to strengthen her shoulder and climb again. She began spending much of her time outside on the boulders at the base of the world-famous granite monolith "[[Stawamus Chief|The Chief]]" in [[Squamish, BC]].
Pidgeon started climbing near [[Flatrock, Newfoundland and Labrador|Flatrock]] in her early 20s on a trip home to her native Newfoundland. Soon after she moved to [[Whistler, British Columbia]], and climbed occasionally at small local sport climbing areas like Nordic Rock and Rogue's Gallery while working several jobs with the goal of visiting Europe for an extended trip. With the money she'd saved she got a working visa and went on a year-and-a-half long trip to Wales, Ireland, parts of Eastern Europe, and Morocco. She learned to [[Traditional climbing|traditional climb]] in [[Rock climbing in Wales|Wales]], but most of the trip was spent visiting new places. She returned to Canada, moved to Kelowna, and began studying sciences at Okanagan University College. She continued climbing while in school and after a year and a half she moved to Vancouver to work and climb as much as possible. She got a job at Mountain Equipment Co-op and began climbing at The Edge climbing gym in Vancouver. She injured her shoulder, kept climbing on it, and eventually was unable to lift her arm above shoulder level. After a year off of climbing her arm had not improved so she visited a physio-therapist and with the exercises he taught her she was able to strengthen her shoulder and climb again. She began spending much of her time outside on the boulders at the base of the world-famous granite monolith "[[Stawamus Chief|The Chief]]" in [[Squamish, BC]].


==Commitment==
==Commitment==
Pidgeon quickly became integrated into the Squamish climbing community and in 2001 she moved to Squamish to live and climb as much as she possibly could.
Pidgeon quickly became integrated into the Squamish climbing community and in 2001 she moved to Squamish, where she currently lives in a van,<ref>{{cite news | url=https://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/british-columbia/camper-van-bylaws-surrey-reactions-1.5351093 | title=Van dweller of 20 years decries new bylaws in B.C. municipalities | first=Clare | last=Hennig | publisher=CBC News | date=7 November 2019 | accessdate=15 October 2021 }}</ref> to live and climb as much as she possibly could.


==Bouldering==
==Bouldering==
In her first decade of climbing Pidgeon quickly became one of the most progressive female boulderers in the world, opening the doors to the harder grades by making First Female Ascents (FFAs)<ref>(FFAs)http://www.urbanclimbermag.com/themag/features/the_x_factor/index4.html</ref> of many double digit problems.
In her first decade of climbing Pidgeon quickly became one of the most progressive female boulderers in the world, opening the doors to the harder grades by making First Female Ascents (FFAs, not to be confused with the traditional usage of [[first ascent|FFA]] in climbing)<ref>(FFAs)http://www.urbanclimbermag.com/themag/features/the_x_factor/index4.html</ref> of many [[Grade (bouldering)#The Hueco scale|double digit problems]].


'''V10''' - In 2001 Pidgeon made an ascent of Zero Zero in Squamish, BC. The problem had previously been climbed by American climber Tiffany Campbell. Pidgeon had only climbed a handful of harder moderates at the time and for a climber of her level, much less a female climber, to try a V10 was considered ridiculous. Nevertheless, Pidgeon picked her project and after only a handful of days of effort she sent the problem. It was one of the first female V10 ascents in the world and the first by a Canadian woman. It was another year before Pidgeon began climbing V10 again, but that year was quite productive with ascents in Squamish, Hueco Tanks (Texas), Bishop (California), Little Cottonwood Canyon (Utah), and an area in Nova Scotia. 2004 saw two more ascents and 2005 one. In 2006 Thomasina became pregnant with her daughter Cedar and did not begin climbing seriously again until 2008 when Cedar was old enough to travel. That year Thomasina made four more V10 ascents. Since then she has kept up the pace, sending several V10 and harder problems each year. As of August 2011 she has sent over 40 V10s.
'''V10''' - In 2001 Pidgeon made an ascent of Zero Zero in Squamish, BC. The problem had previously been climbed by American climber Tiffany Campbell. Pidgeon had only climbed a handful of harder moderates at the time and for a climber of her level, much less a female climber, to try a V10 was considered ridiculous. Nevertheless, Pidgeon picked her project and after only a handful of days of effort she sent the problem. It was one of the first female V10 ascents in the world and the first by a Canadian woman. It was another year before Pidgeon began climbing V10 again, but that year was quite productive with ascents in Squamish, Hueco Tanks (Texas), Bishop (California), Little Cottonwood Canyon (Utah), and an area in Nova Scotia. 2004 saw two more ascents and 2005 one. In 2006 Thomasina became pregnant with her daughter Cedar and did not begin climbing seriously again until 2008 when Cedar was old enough to travel. That year Thomasina made four more V10 ascents. Since then she has kept up the pace, sending several V10 and harder problems each year. As of August 2011 she has sent over 40 V10s.


'''V11''' - Pidgeon was the first Canadian woman and one of the first women in North America to climb V11. As of August 2011 she has done over 20 V11s, almost all FFAs. Her first was "The Egg" (FFA) in Squamish in 2008. She quickly followed that ascent with Water Hazard (2nd ascent, FFA, Bishop), La Belette (FFA Bishop), Lucky Charms (FFA Squamish), and Beefy Gecko (Bishop), all in 2008. In 2009 she managed "Encore En Fois" (Squamish), and in 2010 she went back on the road and did 8 more V11s, 7 of which were FFAs. Perhaps most impressive was her FFA and 2nd try ascent of "The Hand" in Hueco.
'''V11''' - Pidgeon was the first Canadian woman and one of the first women in North America to climb V11. As of August 2011 she has done over 20 V11s, almost all FFAs. Her first was "The Egg" (FFA) in Squamish in 2008. She quickly followed that ascent with Water Hazard (2nd ascent, FFA, Bishop), La Belette (FFA Bishop), Lucky Charms (FFA Squamish), and Beefy Gecko (Bishop), all in 2008. In 2009 she managed "Encore En Fois" (Squamish), and in 2010 she went back on the road and did 8 more V11s, 7 of which were FFAs. Perhaps most impressive was her FFA and 2nd try ascent of "The Hand" in Hueco.


[[Grade_(bouldering)#The Hueco scale|V12]] - Pidgeon was the first Canadian woman and one of the first women in North America to have climbed V12, and she is still one of only a few female boulderers in the world to have climbed multiple V12 boulder problems. To date she has done 7 V12s-- "The Butterpumper" (FFA Hueco Tanks, February 2009), "Rumble in the Jungle" (Hueco Tanks, March 2009), "Barefoot on Sacred Ground" (FFA Hueco Tanks, January 2010), "Summoning Sit" <ref>"Summoning Sit" http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/puccio-pidgeon-and-payne-make-pulling-double-digits-look-easy</ref>(FFA Squamish, June 2010),<ref>http://www.up-climbing.com/en/news/boulder/8a--ffas-for-alex-puccio-and-thomasina-pidgeon</ref> "Sur Le Tois" (FFA, Squamish, September 2010), "Beautiful Gecko"<ref>http://www.urbanclimbermag.com/411/news/another_v12_for_pidgeon/</ref> (FFA since break, Bishop, March 2011), and "The Aquarium"<ref>"The Aquarium"http://www.up-climbing.com/en/news/boulder/pidgeon-sent-beautiful-gecko-8a--video</ref> (FFA Bishop, March 2011).<ref>Bishop, March 201 http://climbingnarc.com/2011/03/news-notes-3222011/</ref> She has also done two slash grade (V11/12) problems -- "Sarah Sit" (Hueco Tanks, 2004), and "Chablanke" (Hueco Tanks, February 2010).
'''V12''' - Pidgeon was the first Canadian woman and one of the first women in North America to have climbed V12, and she for a long time was one of only a few female boulderers in the world to have climbed multiple V12 boulder problems. As of 2011 she has climbed 7 V12s-- "The Butterpumper" (FFA Hueco Tanks, February 2009), "Rumble in the Jungle" (Hueco Tanks, March 2009), "Barefoot on Sacred Ground" (FFA Hueco Tanks, January 2010), "Summoning Sit" <ref>"Summoning Sit" http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/puccio-pidgeon-and-payne-make-pulling-double-digits-look-easy</ref>(FFA Squamish, June 2010),<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.up-climbing.com/en/news/boulder/8a--ffas-for-alex-puccio-and-thomasina-pidgeon |title=UP-CLIMBING: 8A+ FFAs for Alex Puccio and Thomasina Pidgeon - In RMNP and Squamish |website=www.up-climbing.com |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100623072411/http://www.up-climbing.com/en/news/boulder/8a--ffas-for-alex-puccio-and-thomasina-pidgeon |archive-date=2010-06-23}}</ref> "Sur Le Tois" (FFA, Squamish, September 2010), "Beautiful Gecko"<ref>http://www.urbanclimbermag.com/411/news/another_v12_for_pidgeon/</ref> (FFA since break, Bishop, March 2011), and "The Aquarium"<ref>"The Aquarium"http://www.up-climbing.com/en/news/boulder/pidgeon-sent-beautiful-gecko-8a--video</ref> (FFA Bishop, March 2011).<ref>Bishop, March 201 http://climbingnarc.com/2011/03/news-notes-3222011/</ref> She has also done two slash grade (V11/12) problems -- "Sarah Sit" (Hueco Tanks, 2004), and "Chablanke" (Hueco Tanks, February 2010).


==Routes==
==Routes==

===Sport===
===Sport===
*"Technical Ecstasy" (13b)
*"Technical Ecstasy" (13b)
Line 49: Line 52:


==Competition highlights==
==Competition highlights==

===Canada===
===Canada===
*2009 - Tour De Bloc - Kelowna, British Colombia - 1st
*2012 - Tour De bloc - Montreal - 2nd
*2012 - Tour De Bloc - Ontario - 2nd
*2009 - Tour De Bloc - Kelowna, British Columbia - 1st
*2008 - November Sessions - Vancouver - 3rd
*2008 - November Sessions - Vancouver - 3rd
*2007 - November Sessions - Vancouver - 1st
*2007 - November Sessions - Vancouver - 1st
*2007 - Rockfall - St. Johns, Newfoundland - 1st
*2007 - Rockfall - St. John's, Newfoundland - 1st
*2005 - Petzl Roc Trip <ref>http://www.climbing.com/community/events/rtupdate5/</ref> - Squamish - 2nd<ref>2ndhttp://www.urbanclimbermag.com/themag/features/petzlarcteryx_roctrip_squamish_british_columbia/index2.html</ref>
*2005 - Petzl Roc Trip <ref>{{Cite web |url=http://www.climbing.com/community/events/rtupdate5/ |title=RocTrip 2005 Update 5 |access-date=10 September 2011 |archive-date=14 June 2012 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120614224440/http://www.climbing.com/community/events/rtupdate5/ |url-status=dead }}</ref> - Squamish - 2nd<ref>2ndhttp://www.urbanclimbermag.com/themag/features/petzlarcteryx_roctrip_squamish_british_columbia/index2.html</ref>
*2005 - Pebble Wrestle - Abbotsford, BC - 1st
*2005 - Pebble Wrestle - Abbotsford, BC - 1st
*2005 - Tour De Bloc - Richmond, BC - 1st
*2005 - Tour De Bloc - Richmond, BC - 1st
Line 68: Line 74:


==Media==
==Media==

===Magazines and Climbing News Sites: Print and >
===Magazines and Climbing News Sites: Print and >

====8a.nu (Online, Global)====
====8a.nu (Online, Global)====


Line 76: Line 84:


[http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/another_v12_for_pidgeon/ Beautiful Gecko Short Web Article]
[http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/another_v12_for_pidgeon/ Beautiful Gecko Short Web Article]

====Climbing Narc (Online, Global)====

{{Empty section|date=September 2011}}


====Dead Point Magazine (Print & Online, USA & Global)====
====Dead Point Magazine (Print & Online, USA & Global)====
Line 89: Line 93:


[http://gripped.com/2009/08/sections/articles/sh-and-motherhood/ Squamish and Motherhood]
[http://gripped.com/2009/08/sections/articles/sh-and-motherhood/ Squamish and Motherhood]

====Rock and Ice Magazine (Print & Online, USA)====

{{Empty section|date=September 2011}}


====UK Climbing (Online, United Kingdom)====
====UK Climbing (Online, United Kingdom)====
Line 108: Line 108:
* [http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/team-canada-hueco-tanks-2010 Video including Thomasina climbing Barefoot on Sacred Ground]
* [http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/team-canada-hueco-tanks-2010 Video including Thomasina climbing Barefoot on Sacred Ground]
* [http://www.theseasontv.com/?page_id=34 The Season 2] <ref>(upcoming web television show)http://reelwaterproductions.com/2011/01/03/2010-our-best-year-yet/</ref>
* [http://www.theseasontv.com/?page_id=34 The Season 2] <ref>(upcoming web television show)http://reelwaterproductions.com/2011/01/03/2010-our-best-year-yet/</ref>
Climber in “Herman Hesse Memorial Hospital” commercial for US TV, 2008
Climber in "Herman Hesse Memorial Hospital" commercial for US TV, 2008
http://www.vimeo.com/25092863
http://www.vimeo.com/25092863


Featured climber in the Top 20 Boulder Classics of NA, N. Condor film, 2006
Featured climber in the Top 20 Boulder Classics of NA, N. Condor film, 2006
Line 115: Line 115:


===Books===
===Books===
Contributed to [http://books.google.com/books?id=f9JBRzt97RIC&pg=PR2&lpg=PR2&dq=thomasina+pidgeon+photography&source=bl&ots=RnVHj8_nao&sig=23gniKhJaPqPfetRt4hplhR4vqY&hl=en&ei=-KhqTuPDNPTKiAK7_9HRDg&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGcQ6AEwCTgo#v=onepage&q=thomasina%20pidgeon&f=false Quality Lesson Plans for Outdoor Education]
Contributed to [https://books.google.com/books?id=f9JBRzt97RIC&q=thomasina+pidgeon&pg=PR2 Quality Lesson Plans for Outdoor Education]


==Sponsors==
==Sponsors==
[http://www.sportiva.com/ambassadors/athletes/pro-climbing/thomasina-pidgeon La Sportiva] <ref>http://www.sportiva.com/ambassadors/athletes/pro-climbing/thomasina-pidgeon</ref><br />
[http://www.sportiva.com/ambassadors/athletes/pro-climbing/thomasina-pidgeon La Sportiva] <ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.sportiva.com/ambassadors/athletes/pro-climbing/thomasina-pidgeon |title=Thomasina Pidgeon |website=www.sportiva.com |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110425035730/http://www.sportiva.com/ambassadors/athletes/pro-climbing/thomasina-pidgeon |archive-date=2011-04-25}}</ref><br />
[http://www.arcteryx.com/Athlete.aspx?EN/ThomasinaPidgeon Arc'teryx] <ref>http://www.arcteryx.com/Athlete.aspx?EN/ThomasinaPidgeon</ref><br />
[http://www.arcteryx.com/Athlete.aspx?EN/ThomasinaPidgeon Arc'teryx] <ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.arcteryx.com/Athlete.aspx?EN/ThomasinaPidgeon|title=Athlete / Arc'teryx|website=Arc'teryx Equipment}}</ref><br />
[http://myvega.com/team-vega/ambassadors/meet-us/thomasina-pidgeon Vega] <ref>http://myvega.com/team-vega/ambassadors/meet-us/thomasina-pidgeon</ref><br />
[http://myvega.com/team-vega/ambassadors/meet-us/thomasina-pidgeon Vega] <ref>{{cite web |url=http://myvega.com/team-vega/ambassadors/meet-us/thomasina-pidgeon |title=Vega Ambassador {{!}} My Vega |website=myvega.com |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100927060619/http://myvega.com/team-vega/ambassadors/meet-us/thomasina-pidgeon |archive-date=2010-09-27}}</ref><br />
[http://metoliusclimbing.com/team.html Metolius] <ref>http://metoliusclimbing.com/team.html</ref>
[http://metoliusclimbing.com/team.html Metolius] <ref>{{cite web|url=http://metoliusclimbing.com/team.html|title=Climbing Team - Metolius Climbing|last=info@metoliusclimbing.com|website=metoliusclimbing.com}}</ref>


==References==
==References==
Line 130: Line 130:
* http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http%3A//www.8a.nu/user/Profile.aspx%3FUserId%3D32071
* http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http%3A//www.8a.nu/user/Profile.aspx%3FUserId%3D32071


{{Persondata <!-- Metadata: see [[Wikipedia:Persondata]]. -->
| NAME = Pidgeon, Thomasina
| ALTERNATIVE NAMES =
| SHORT DESCRIPTION = Rock climber
| DATE OF BIRTH = 1975
| PLACE OF BIRTH = [[Newfoundland]], [[Canada]]
| DATE OF DEATH =
| PLACE OF DEATH =
}}
{{DEFAULTSORT:Pidgeon, Thomasina}}
{{DEFAULTSORT:Pidgeon, Thomasina}}
[[Category:Canadian rock climbers]]
[[Category:Canadian rock climbers]]
[[Category:Living people]]
[[Category:Living people]]
[[Category:1975 births]]
[[Category:1975 births]]
[[Category:Sportspeople from Newfoundland and Labrador]]
[[Category:Sportspeople from British Columbia]]
[[Category:Canadian female climbers]]
[[Category:Canadian competition climbers]]

Latest revision as of 12:13, 10 June 2024

Thomasina Pidgeon
Born (1975-03-28) 28 March 1975 (age 49)
Newfoundland
NationalityCanadian
OccupationRock Climber
Known forBouldering

Darlene Thomasina Pidgeon (born 1975) is a Canadian rock climber known for being one of the world's strongest female boulderers in the early 2000s and 2010s, was for a time the strongest female Canadian boulderer, and was the first Canadian female to climb the grades of V10, V11, and V12.[1] She is often featured in Gripped Magazine and contributes to The Collective (a multi-climber website). She has also been featured in several international magazines and websites and her image has been used in advertising, magazine galleries, and magazine covers.

Thomasina is also a mother (her daughter Cedar travels around with her), a writer, a doula, sews and sells clothing, shopping bags, and other crafts, and works as a photographer. She is one of 5 athletes to be featured in The Season 2, a 22 episode web TV show.[2]

Beginnings

[edit]

Pidgeon started climbing near Flatrock in her early 20s on a trip home to her native Newfoundland. Soon after she moved to Whistler, British Columbia, and climbed occasionally at small local sport climbing areas like Nordic Rock and Rogue's Gallery while working several jobs with the goal of visiting Europe for an extended trip. With the money she'd saved she got a working visa and went on a year-and-a-half long trip to Wales, Ireland, parts of Eastern Europe, and Morocco. She learned to traditional climb in Wales, but most of the trip was spent visiting new places. She returned to Canada, moved to Kelowna, and began studying sciences at Okanagan University College. She continued climbing while in school and after a year and a half she moved to Vancouver to work and climb as much as possible. She got a job at Mountain Equipment Co-op and began climbing at The Edge climbing gym in Vancouver. She injured her shoulder, kept climbing on it, and eventually was unable to lift her arm above shoulder level. After a year off of climbing her arm had not improved so she visited a physio-therapist and with the exercises he taught her she was able to strengthen her shoulder and climb again. She began spending much of her time outside on the boulders at the base of the world-famous granite monolith "The Chief" in Squamish, BC.

Commitment

[edit]

Pidgeon quickly became integrated into the Squamish climbing community and in 2001 she moved to Squamish, where she currently lives in a van,[3] to live and climb as much as she possibly could.

Bouldering

[edit]

In her first decade of climbing Pidgeon quickly became one of the most progressive female boulderers in the world, opening the doors to the harder grades by making First Female Ascents (FFAs, not to be confused with the traditional usage of FFA in climbing)[4] of many double digit problems.

V10 - In 2001 Pidgeon made an ascent of Zero Zero in Squamish, BC. The problem had previously been climbed by American climber Tiffany Campbell. Pidgeon had only climbed a handful of harder moderates at the time and for a climber of her level, much less a female climber, to try a V10 was considered ridiculous. Nevertheless, Pidgeon picked her project and after only a handful of days of effort she sent the problem. It was one of the first female V10 ascents in the world and the first by a Canadian woman. It was another year before Pidgeon began climbing V10 again, but that year was quite productive with ascents in Squamish, Hueco Tanks (Texas), Bishop (California), Little Cottonwood Canyon (Utah), and an area in Nova Scotia. 2004 saw two more ascents and 2005 one. In 2006 Thomasina became pregnant with her daughter Cedar and did not begin climbing seriously again until 2008 when Cedar was old enough to travel. That year Thomasina made four more V10 ascents. Since then she has kept up the pace, sending several V10 and harder problems each year. As of August 2011 she has sent over 40 V10s.

V11 - Pidgeon was the first Canadian woman and one of the first women in North America to climb V11. As of August 2011 she has done over 20 V11s, almost all FFAs. Her first was "The Egg" (FFA) in Squamish in 2008. She quickly followed that ascent with Water Hazard (2nd ascent, FFA, Bishop), La Belette (FFA Bishop), Lucky Charms (FFA Squamish), and Beefy Gecko (Bishop), all in 2008. In 2009 she managed "Encore En Fois" (Squamish), and in 2010 she went back on the road and did 8 more V11s, 7 of which were FFAs. Perhaps most impressive was her FFA and 2nd try ascent of "The Hand" in Hueco.

V12 - Pidgeon was the first Canadian woman and one of the first women in North America to have climbed V12, and she for a long time was one of only a few female boulderers in the world to have climbed multiple V12 boulder problems. As of 2011 she has climbed 7 V12s-- "The Butterpumper" (FFA Hueco Tanks, February 2009), "Rumble in the Jungle" (Hueco Tanks, March 2009), "Barefoot on Sacred Ground" (FFA Hueco Tanks, January 2010), "Summoning Sit" [5](FFA Squamish, June 2010),[6] "Sur Le Tois" (FFA, Squamish, September 2010), "Beautiful Gecko"[7] (FFA since break, Bishop, March 2011), and "The Aquarium"[8] (FFA Bishop, March 2011).[9] She has also done two slash grade (V11/12) problems -- "Sarah Sit" (Hueco Tanks, 2004), and "Chablanke" (Hueco Tanks, February 2010).

Routes

[edit]

Sport

[edit]
  • "Technical Ecstasy" (13b)
  • "Presto" (13a)
  • "Young Blood" (13a/b)

Trad

[edit]
  • "The Grand Wall" (5.11+)
  • "The Daily Planet" (12a)

For a full list of Pidgeon's bouldering and route ascents search for her scorecard on climbing ranking site 8a.nu.[10]

Competition highlights

[edit]

Canada

[edit]
  • 2012 - Tour De bloc - Montreal - 2nd
  • 2012 - Tour De Bloc - Ontario - 2nd
  • 2009 - Tour De Bloc - Kelowna, British Columbia - 1st
  • 2008 - November Sessions - Vancouver - 3rd
  • 2007 - November Sessions - Vancouver - 1st
  • 2007 - Rockfall - St. John's, Newfoundland - 1st
  • 2005 - Petzl Roc Trip [11] - Squamish - 2nd[12]
  • 2005 - Pebble Wrestle - Abbotsford, BC - 1st
  • 2005 - Tour De Bloc - Richmond, BC - 1st
  • 2004 - Crag X ABS6 Comp - Victoria, BC - 1st

International

[edit]
  • 2010 - Hueco Rock Rodeo - 2nd[13]
  • 2009 - Hueco Rock Rodeo - 1st
  • 2006 - Boulder Fest - Australia - 1st
  • 2006 - Boulder Fest Overall - Australia - 2nd
  • 2005 - Seoul International Bouldering Competition - Korea - 4th
  • 2004 - Seattle Bouldering Challenge - Seattle, USA - 2nd

Media

[edit]

Magazines and Climbing News Sites: Print and Online

[edit]

8a.nu (Online, Global)

[edit]

Thomasina does Beautiful Gecko

Climbing Magazine (Print & Online, USA)

[edit]

Beautiful Gecko Short Web Article

Dead Point Magazine (Print & Online, USA & Global)

[edit]

Double-Digits Article
Women in Hueco Article

Gripped Magazine (Print, Canada)

[edit]

Squamish and Motherhood

UK Climbing (Online, United Kingdom)

[edit]

Girls climbing 8A

Urban Climber Magazine (Print & Online, USA)

[edit]

Interview with Urban Climber
The X Factor Article
Mention in Female Crushing Article

Video Appearances

[edit]

Climber in "Herman Hesse Memorial Hospital" commercial for US TV, 2008 http://www.vimeo.com/25092863

Featured climber in the Top 20 Boulder Classics of NA, N. Condor film, 2006 http://www.fanaticalfilms.com/top20_synopsis.htm

Books

[edit]

Contributed to Quality Lesson Plans for Outdoor Education

Sponsors

[edit]

La Sportiva [15]
Arc'teryx [16]
Vega [17]
Metolius [18]

References

[edit]
  1. ^ "Thomasina Pidgeon on V12, Squamish and Motherhood - Gripped Magazine". Gripped. 15 July 2015.
  2. ^ The Season 2, a 22 episode web tv show running this fall http://www.theseasontv.com/
  3. ^ Hennig, Clare (7 November 2019). "Van dweller of 20 years decries new bylaws in B.C. municipalities". CBC News. Retrieved 15 October 2021.
  4. ^ (FFAs)http://www.urbanclimbermag.com/themag/features/the_x_factor/index4.html
  5. ^ "Summoning Sit" http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/puccio-pidgeon-and-payne-make-pulling-double-digits-look-easy
  6. ^ "UP-CLIMBING: 8A+ FFAs for Alex Puccio and Thomasina Pidgeon - In RMNP and Squamish". www.up-climbing.com. Archived from the original on 23 June 2010.
  7. ^ http://www.urbanclimbermag.com/411/news/another_v12_for_pidgeon/
  8. ^ "The Aquarium"http://www.up-climbing.com/en/news/boulder/pidgeon-sent-beautiful-gecko-8a--video
  9. ^ Bishop, March 201 http://climbingnarc.com/2011/03/news-notes-3222011/
  10. ^ 8a.nu
  11. ^ "RocTrip 2005 Update 5". Archived from the original on 14 June 2012. Retrieved 10 September 2011.
  12. ^ 2ndhttp://www.urbanclimbermag.com/themag/features/petzlarcteryx_roctrip_squamish_british_columbia/index2.html
  13. ^ http://www.urbanclimbermag.com/themag/411/lowdown_-_hueco_rock_rodeo/
  14. ^ (upcoming web television show)http://reelwaterproductions.com/2011/01/03/2010-our-best-year-yet/
  15. ^ "Thomasina Pidgeon". www.sportiva.com. Archived from the original on 25 April 2011.
  16. ^ "Athlete / Arc'teryx". Arc'teryx Equipment.
  17. ^ "Vega Ambassador | My Vega". myvega.com. Archived from the original on 27 September 2010.
  18. ^ info@metoliusclimbing.com. "Climbing Team - Metolius Climbing". metoliusclimbing.com.
[edit]
Retrieved from "https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Thomasina_Pidgeon&oldid=1228287677"