- This article concerns domesticated European rabbits. For information on the wild variety, see European Rabbit. For general information on all rabbit species, see Rabbit.
A domestic rabbit is one of several varieties of European rabbit that has been domesticated by humans. They are commonly raised for their meat, fur, or appeal as pets. Domestic rabbits are available in a wide variety of colors and sizes; hundreds of different breeds have been produced through selective breeding.
Male rabbits are known as bucks and the females are called does. Though many people use the terms "rabbit" and "bunny" interchangeably, bunny technically refers to the rabbit's young. Young rabbits are formally called kits or kittens.
History
For thousands of years, the wild European rabbit was hunted and used for meat by humans living in Europe. The domestication of the species did not begin until the time of the Roman Empire.
Phoenician sailors visiting the coast of Spain circa 1100 B.C.E., mistaking the European rabbit for a species from their homeland, gave it the name i-shepan-ham. A corruption of this name, used by the Romans, would become the Latin name for Spain, Hispania. In Rome rabbits were raised in large walled colonies. These captive rabbits were raised as food and permitted to interbreed at will. All of the different varieties of European rabbit at the time were natural; no man-made breeds had been developed.
Selective breeding of rabbits began in the Middle Ages, when they were first treated as domesticated farm animals. By the 1500s, several new breeds of different colors and sizes were being recorded. As the domestication process continued, rabbit behavior changed as well; frightful and aggressive animals became more docile and easier to handle.
In the 1800s, as animal fancy in general began to emerge, rabbit fanciers began to attend rabbit shows in Western Europe and the United States. Breeds were created and modified for the purpose of exhibition, not exclusively as food, fur, or wool animals. Because of this, some breeds were created that had little purpose outside of exhibition. The rabbit's emergence as a household pet began during the Victorian era.
Throughout the 20th century domestic rabbits have been used as an all-purpose animal. Rabbits' soft fur is still popular for fur coats and fur trim. Though it has been known as an efficient, healthy, and nutritious meat for thousands of years, rabbit meat is generally unpopular in the United States and cannot be purchased at most supermarkets. However, many rabbit breeders still slaughter and eat some of their stock.
Rabbits have also been popular in laboratory animal experimentation, particularly regarding cosmetics products. However, a backlash that has been occurring since the 1970s against cosmetic and cleaning products tested on animals has decreased the rabbit's use in this field.
The domestic rabbit continues to be popular as a show animal and pet. Rabbit shows, though little known to most people, occur in many places. Many pet shops stock rabbits intended as pets.
General Types
Meat Rabbits
Meat rabbits are larger than most people expect. Breeds such as the New Zealand and the Californian are most frequently utilized for meat in commercial rabbitries. These breeds have efficient metabolisms and grow quickly; they are ready for slaughter by approximately eight to twelve weeks of age. Rabbit meat may be prepared in a variety of ways and to some it tastes like white meat chicken.
Fur Rabbits
Fur rabbit breeds come in many sizes; some fur rabbits are also meat rabbits. The rex and mini-rex are examples of common fur rabbit breeds. These rabbits are bred to have particularly soft and thick fur that can be used to make fur coats or trim on clothing.
Wool Rabbits
Some rabbits, such as the Angoras and Jersey woolies, produce wool in the same manner that a sheep does. They are sheared or "plucked" (gently pulling loose wool from the body) to harvest the wool; this use of the rabbit does not involve slaughtering the animal. The wool can then be spun into yarn and used to make a variety of products, and is popular with fiber artists. Angora wool sweaters can be purchased in many clothing stores.
Diet
The typical diet for a pet rabbit consists of water, hay, pellets, fresh vegetables, and its own caecal pellets. Fruit and other treats are given only in very limited quantities, as they can cause obesity in a rabbit. Rabbits require a constant water supply as they dehydrate quickly.
Most sources recommend 80% of the diet should be Timothy hay or another grass hay. Too many vegetables in a rabbit's diet typically leads to diarrhea and other digestive problems.
Pellets
Rabbits are generally fed a pelleted feed available from pet stores, supermarkets, and farm suppliers. Pellets were originally designed for rabbit breeders for the purpose of providing as much food energy and vitamins as inexpensively as possible. This is optimal when the rabbits are being bred for food or for experimentation.
Most sources recommend a minimum of 18% fiber, low protein (14–15%), and less than 1% calcium. Depending on the amount of vegetables available, an adult rabbit should be given between 20 ml to 40 ml per kilogram (¼ and ½ cup of pellets per 6 pounds) body weight daily. Pre-adolescent and adolescent rabbits (7 months and younger) can be given as much pelleted diet as they can consume, although additional vegetables are preferable to additional pellets. An older rabbit (over six years) can be given more pellets if they are having difficulty maintaining a steady body weight. Timothy hay-based pellets are great for rabbits that have stopped growing and do not need to gain weight. Alfalfa-based pellets are best only for young, growing rabbits or older rabbits who are under-weight.
Vegetables
Vegetables are essential to the health of rabbits, though they should not be provided to rabbits until they are at least 6 months old, as they can cause diarrhea in young rabbits. At least two cups of three different vegetables per 170 ml/kg (6 lb) of body weight should be fed to the rabbit daily. It is wise to select vegetables that are high in Vitamin A.
Vegetables considered healthy for a rabbit include:
| Alfalfa, radish & clover sprouts Artichoke (Jerusalem) |
Collard greens† Cucumber |
Mustard greens† Parsley† |
| † = Contains Vitamin A. | ‡ = Contains goitrogens and/or oxalates, and may be toxic over long periods of time. | |
Hay
Hay is essential for the health of all rabbits. A steady supply of hay will help prevent hairballs and other digestive tract problems in rabbits. Additionally, it provides a number of necessary vitamins and minerals at a low food energy cost. Rabbits enjoy chewing on hay, and always having hay available for the rabbit may reduce its tendency to chew on other items. Timothy hay and other grass hays are considered the healthiest to provide the rabbit. As a persistently high blood calcium level can prove harmful to the rabbit, hays such as alfalfa and clover hay should be avoided. Alfalfa is also relatively high in food energy, and a constant diet of it can cause obesity in rabbits.
Treats
Treats are unhealthy in large quantities for rabbits, just as they are for humans. Most treats sold in pet stores are filled with sugar and high food energy carbohydrates. If an owner is determined to feed the rabbit treats, the best treat to provide it with is fruit.
Acceptable fruits (seeds and pits MUST be removed): Banana, Mango, Pineapple, Peach, Apple, Kiwi, Berries, Orange and other citrus
Pineapple, mango, and papaya all contain a natural enzyme which is thought to reduce hairballs.
Fruits or other treats must be given in moderation, as rabbits easily become overweight and suffer health problems. Their diet should consist of no more than half a tablespoon of fruits or treats per day.
Caecal pellets
Do not be alarmed if you see your rabbit eat some of his feces. These are called cecal pellets, and are a vital part of his diet. Caecal pellets are soft, smelly, clumpy feces, and are a rabbit's only supply of Vitamin B12. Due to the design of the rabbit's digestive system, they cannot extract some vitamins and minerals directly from their food. At the end of their digestive system is an area called the caecum where cellulose and other plant fibers are broken down and ferment. After they have been broken down and passed, a rabbit's digestive system can finally extract the vitamins from them.
Rabbits as Pets
Rabbits have been popularly kept as pets in Western nations since the 1800s. Rabbits can adjust well and can even be litter box trained. Like all pets, rabbits need a considerable amount of care and attention.
Children's Pets
Rabbits are often considered to be a children's pet. Many experts feel rabbits make poor pets for young children, as they may be careless in picking up the rabbit or physically unable to provide it the support the rabbit requires when carried. As with any pet, parents ought to be prepared to take over care of any rabbit brought home for a child.
Older children who have experience with handling and caring for animals sometimes show their animals in 4-H shows and other exhibitions.
They also make great pets for working adults, due to their being crepuscular. That is, they are most active at dawn and dusk, fitting in nicely with the working day.
Companionship
Other rabbits
Rabbits are extremely social animals, but unneutered rabbits frequently fight when paired with another rabbit. Generally fighting is a result of sexual mounting, which is engaged in by rabbits of both sexes upon other rabbits of either sex; this behavior stresses the rabbit being mounted and can make it aggressive toward its cagemate. Unneutered rabbits of opposite sexes will breed rapidly, so a pet owner should not leave them together, even if they do not fight.
Because of these problems, it used to be preferred to keep rabbits caged individually. However, it is becoming common to neuter and spay pet rabbits allowing male and female rabbits to live together. Fighting can result even from pairing altered rabbits. Keeping rabbits in pairs can limit behavioral problems (such as general aggression, biting or withdrawal) which may arise if rabbits are kept single.
Pairs of bonded and desexed rabbits, usually one of each gender to a pair, can often be adopted from animal shelters. These have usually already had all their major expenses taken care of (desexing) and they will rarely fight or harass each other, taking the trouble out of bonding two separate rabbits.
Guinea pigs
Some books recommend keeping rabbits and guinea pigs together to meet their social needs. While some people have seen success with this technique, the current consensus is that rabbits should never be kept in the same cage with guinea pigs. A rabbit can easily harass or injure a guinea pig; this can lead to severe distress or even death for the guinea pig. It may be unintentional or due to being startled, since the rabbit is larger and stronger so can seriously injure a guinea pig. They also have differing nutritional requirements, so it is therefore preferable that rabbits and guinea pigs are fed separately. Guinea pigs require additional Vitamin C in their diets that rabbits don't, so may get scurvy.
Additionally, guinea pigs typically show very little interest in social activities necessary for the rabbit's well-being, such as grooming; this limits the intended benefit of housing the guinea pig and rabbit together in the first place.
Dogs and cats
It is generally recommended that dogs should never be left alone with rabbits as their predatory instincts (or overenthusiastic play) can lead to the dog attacking the rabbit spontaneously. Cats, on the other hand, are considered safer as a potential companion if properly introduced to the rabbit and are of roughly equivalent size. In fact, when the cat is introduced in a home with a resident rabbit, the rabbit sometimes will act aggressively to establish his territory and the cat, which does not have such concerns, will typically cede the point to the resident.
Acquiring a Rabbit
Often people purchase rabbits from a breeder. Many people prefer breeders under suspicion that some pet stores sell cross bred rabbits. Such a breeder who has a litter of young rabbits available for sale can be found in the newspaper classified ads listed under "Pets" or "Livestock." Some can be found through rabbit breeders' club publications or through rabbit-related magazines, which often include a breeder listing. With the advent of the Internet, many breeders advertise their stock online.
Finding a local rabbit breeder is generally preferred to shipping rabbits for long distances, as it can be stressful for the animal. Many pet shops nearly always carry smaller breeds of rabbit such as the Netherland dwarf, the Holland lop, and the Mini-Rex. Despite that they are smaller, they still live long lives but may be prone to inherited dental problems that would become apparent with time.
Rabbit rescue organizations or a local humane society are increasingly common places to find adult rabbits, who may already be spayed or neutered and docile from handling. Though most rescued rabbits are healthy, some may require special care for health conditions or behavioral problems resulting from prior abuse.
Training and Play
Pet rabbits can be trained to urinate and defecate in a litter box or on a newspaper in a specific corner of a room. The litter box may also be placed inside the rabbit's cage or the rabbit can be trained to treat the cage itself as the litter box. Litter training becomes much easier once a rabbit is neutered or spayed.
Rabbits can not learn voice commands like a dog. They are some what intelligent and enjoy games and toys.
It is possible to permit a rabbit to run loose in the home if rooms have been rabbit-proofed (i.e. dangerous chewable items such as electric cords are removed from the pet's reach). Rabbits have a tendancy to chew on items in their space, particullary wires.
It is important that if you let the rabbit free in your house that you make it impossible for them to chew or do what you don't want them to chew or do. They do not possess the mental capabilities of a dog or a cat, and often don't understand if you try to punish them. If you punish them like you would a dog or cat, they just get scared and confused. If you remember this, then they will make great house pets.
Breeds
- Main article: List of rabbit breeds
Almost all breeds of European rabbits, if they are handled properly, are suitable as household pets. However, some breeds have inherently calmer dispositions than others and therefore usually make better companions.
There are more then 50 different breeds of domestic rabbit. Like breeds of dogs, rabbit breeds were generally created by humans at different times, for different purposes. Breeds were created many reasons including for their fur, wool, meat, apperance and behavior.
Exhibition
Conformation shows
Most people are not familiar with domestic rabbit shows. The parent organization for rabbit exhibition in the United States is The American Rabbit Breeders Association. The American Rabbit Breeders Association currently has over 30,000 members throughout the United States, Canada, and in various other countries. In the United States the leading states for exhibition are Ohio, Indiana, Michigan, Illinois, and parts of California. There are shows in every state throughout the year and in some locations the shows take place most weekends.
In recent years the exhibition of rabbits has turned into a thriving family event. The focus has changed from a male dominated hobby to one of family involvement. At many shows there are events and contests that focus on youth education and youth development.
Rabbits of all varieties can be shown and judged on their breed confirmation. County fairs are common venues through which rabbits are shown in the United States. Rabbit clubs also hold shows; club shows generally permit only pedigreed rabbits to be entered. Children's clubs such as 4-H also include rabbit shows, usually in conjunction with county fairs.
Show jumping
- Main article: Rabbit show jumping
Rabbit show jumping, a form of athletic competition between rabbits, began in the 1970s and has since become popular in Europe, particularly Sweden and the United Kingdom. Any rabbit regardless of breed may participate in this kind of competition, as it is based on athletic skill and not the animal's appearance.
Housing
Depending on the purpose for keeping the rabbit, there are a number of different kinds of housing. Regardless of the type of cage, it should be tall enough to allow the rabbit to stand on their hind legs, wide enough the rabbit to turn around, and long enough to exercise by moving back and forth along the floor of the cage (including space for food dishes, sipper water bottle, and litter box if applicable).
Commercial rabbits
Commercial rabbits of all varieties are almost always kept outdoors in steel wire cages hung or stacked in a barn, shed, or other shelter. Most large-scale commercial rabbitries have automated feeding and watering systems, and the cages have wire mesh floors (with a sloped tray underneath if the cages are stacked) to simplify waste removal. Nest boxes may be built into the cages for females.
Smaller rabbitries may still use wooden hutches, though the inherent difficulties in cleaning this type of cage have made it less popular in recent years. It is less efficient in both space and ease of care than the wire cage. However, for large breeds, the hutch's solid wood floor prevents sore hocks, a problem which results when the protective hair is rubbed off from the rabbit's hocks by a wire mesh floor.
Wool rabbits such as the Angora are commonly run in large colonies, with females and altered males living together in spacious pens.
Pet rabbits
Pet rabbits may be kept indoors or outdoors, but the cage used must vary appropriately with where the rabbit is kept.
Outdoor pet rabbits are kept in a manner similar to commercial rabbits: stacked or hanging wire cages or wooden hutches are the most common outdoor cages. A wire cage must be kept inside a shelter, but some hutches are built with roofs or covered nest boxes that provide the rabbit shelter and allow the hutch to be placed directly outdoors.
Indoor rabbits require special consideration, because the cage should be attractive as well as functional. If the rabbit will be allowed to run loose in the home most of the time, the cage will not need to be as large as if the rabbit spent most of its time inside the cage. An indoor rabbit's cage should ideally have a door on the side, and not just on the top. This allows the rabbit to come and go as it pleases when the cage door is open.
There are two primary types of indoor rabbit cage: some have a wire floor with a sliding tray for waste removal, while others have a solid floor. Which type of cage should be purchased depends entirely upon the pet owner's preference, but factors to consider are the difficulty of cage cleaning and whether the rabbit will be litter trained.
Most pet stores stock only cages of an appropriate size for small rabbits. Some of these cages marketed for rabbits aren't even large enough for the smallest dwarf rabbits. For larger breeds a hutch or other larger cage will be required (usually available by mail-order or at farm supply stores). Some rabbit owners also build cages for their pets.
Health Problems
Vaccinations Against Calici Virus and Myxomytosis
Calici virus and Myxomytosis are the biggest threat to the health of well-cared for pet rabbits. These can be prevented by annual vaccinations. Rabbit owners in Australia cannot get their rabbit vaccinated against myxomytosis due to its use in controlling wild rabbit numbers (it may escape if a vaccinated pet rabbit is released). Rabbits caged outdoors are especially vulnerable due to their being exposed to more vectors carrying the diseases, especially mosquitoes. In wild populations fleas also carry myxomytosis.
Sore hocks
The formation of open sores on the rabbit's hocks, commonly called "sore hocks," is a common problem afflicting rabbits kept in cages with wire floors. The condition results when, in the course of moving about the cage, the protective fur on the bottom of the rabbit's feet is worn off from the hock area. The exposed skin further rubs on the wire floor, causing painful sores and blisters that can become infected.
Rabbits with sore hocks must be provided with a solid floor cage or a resting board in order for the sores to heal. To prevent the problem from developing, those rabbits especially prone to sore hocks, such as extremely heavy breeds or those with very short fur, should have access to a solid floor at all times. Regular inspections of a rabbit's feet can help an owner head off the development of sore hocks.
Respiratory infections
A common ailment among domestic rabbits is a respiratory infection most commonly caused by Pasturella bacteria known colloquially as "snuffles." Symptoms include sneezing, coughing, and runny nose and eyes. Generally this disease is accepted as incurable, though some people attempt antibiotic treatments with varying degrees of success.
Head tilt or wry neck
Pasturella infections of the inner ear, certain protozoans, strokes, other diseases, or injuries affecting the brain or inner ear can lead to a condition known as wry neck or "head tilt." Frequently this condition is fatal, largely due to a disorientation that causes the animal to stop eating and drinking. Sometimes an antibiotic or antiprotozoal treatment can cure wry neck if it is caused by a bacterial or protozoal infection. Acupuncture has also been used in cases with some success.
Teeth problems
There are a number of dental problems that affect rabbits. These can cause anorexia (the rabbit refuses to eat), which is always a serious situation in rabbits and requires urgent care. Some of them are:
- Malocclusion. Rabbit teeth are open rooted and continue to grow throughout their life. In healthy rabbits, they are kept under control by the chewing action during normal eating, during which they wear out against each other. In some rabbits, the teeth are not properly aligned (a condition called malocclusion), and so there is no normal wear to keep the teeth down. There are three main causes of malocclusion, most commonly genetic predisposition, injury, or bacterial infection. In the case of congenital malocclusion, treatment usually involves veterinary visits in which the teeth are treated with a dental burr (a procedure called crown reduction) or, in some cases, permanently removed.
- Molar spurs. These are spurs that can dig into the rabbit's tongue and/or cheek causing pain. These can be filed down by an experienced veterinarian with a dental burr.
The initial symptom in many dental problems is ptyalism (drooling or "slobbering"). However there are many other causes of ptyalism including pain due to other causes. A visit to an experienced rabbit veterinarian is strongly recommended in the case of a wet chin, or excessive grooming in the mouth area.
Gastrointestinal stasis
Gastrointestinal stasis (or G.I. stasis) is a serious and potentially fatal condition that occurs in some rabbits in which gut motility is severely reduced and possibly completely stopped. Treatment should be sought immediately from a veterinarian specializing in exotic animals and with significant rabbit experience. When untreated or improperly treated, G.I. stasis can be fatal in as little as 24 hours.
G.I. stasis is the condition of food not moving through the gut as quickly as normal. The gut contents may dehydrate and compact into a hard, immobile mass (impacted gut), blocking the digestive tract of the rabbit. Food in an immobile gut may also ferment, causing significant gas buildup and resultant gas pain for the rabbit.
The first noticeable symptom of G.I. stasis may be that the rabbit suddenly stops eating. Treatment frequently includes subcutaneous fluid therapy (rehydration through injection of saline solution under the skin), drugs for treatment of the buildup of gas in the digestive tract, massage to promote gas expulsion and comfort, possible drugs to promote gut motility, and careful monitoring of all inputs and outputs. The rabbit's diet may also be changed as part of treatment.
Some rabbits are more prone to G.I. stasis than others. The causes of G.I. stasis are not completely understood, but common contributing factors are thought to include:
- a lack of fibre in the diet. Many pet rabbits do not get sufficient fresh grass hay but are instead mistakenly fed only commercial alfalfa pellets originally developed for rapidly increasing mass in rabbits bred for meat.
- insufficient moisture in the diet. Fresh, leafy greens are a critical part of a rabbit's diet in part because of their moisture content, which helps prevent the gut contents from becoming impacted.
- lack of excercise. Rabbits confined to a cage frequently do not get the opportunity (or motivation) to run, jump, and play which is critical in maintaining gut motility.
In addition, G.I. stasis can be caused by the rabbit not eating for other reasons, such as stress, dental problems, or other unrelated health problems.
G.I. stasis is sometimes misdiagnosed as cat-like "hair balls" by veterinarians not familiar with rabbit physiology.
The House Rabbit Society website contains two good articles on G.I. stasis:
Cancer
Rabbits frequently are subject to cancers of the reproductive organs by four or five years of age. Neutering or spaying a rabbit eliminates this risk and as a result may increase the animal's lifespan.
Resources
- House Rabbit Handbook: How to Live With an Urban Rabbit - the ultimate book on rabbit care
- Why Does My Rabbit . . .? - a great companion book to the House Rabbit Handbook
- Rabbits for Dummies
- Stories Rabbits Tell - this book is less about rabbit care and more about rabbit's place in the human world. *caution* - later chapters contain disturbing imagery of animal experimentation
- American Rabbit Breeders' Association, Official Guidebook: Raising Better Rabbits and Cavies.
- Wegler, Monika, Rabbits: A Complete Pet Owner's Manual, ISBN 0-7641-0937-5.
External links
- House Rabbit Society, an informational guide on pet rabbits
- American Rabbit Breeders' Association, a rabbit breeders' club in the United States
- Rabbits Only Forums, a very useful online rabbit forum (registration required)