Moire (fabric): Difference between revisions

In [[textile]]s, a '''moireMoire''' ({{IPAc-en|ˈ|m|w|ɑr}} or {{IPAc-en|ˈ|m|ɔr}}), less often '''moiré''', is a [[textile|fabric]] with a wavy (watered) appearance produced mainly from [[silk]], but also [[wool]], [[cotton]] and [[rayon]]. The watered appearance is usually created by the [[finishing (textiles)|finishing]] technique called [[calendering]]. Moire[[Moiré pattern|Moiré effects]] are also achieved by certain weaves,<ref name="dict">{{cite book |title=Dictionary of textiles |last= Harmuth|first= Louis|year= 1915|publisher= Fairchild publishing company|page= [https://archive.org/details/dictionarytexti01harmgoog/page/n118 106]|url= httphttps://booksarchive.google.comorg/books?id=LVEhAAAAMAAJ&dqdetails/dictionarytexti01harmgoog|accessdateaccess-date=July 8, 2009}}</ref> such as varying the tension in the [[warp (weaving)|warp]] and [[weft]] of the weave, or by running the fabric through engraved copper rollers. Silk treated in this way is sometimes called '''watered silk'''.<ref name="EB">EncyclopaediaEncyclopædia Britannica 1949, volume 15, p. 661</ref>

Moire is produced from two distinctly different methods of finishing. Calendering produces the true moire, known as "moire antique" and "moire Anglaise,", which is a purely physical phenomenon. In calendering, the fabric is folded lengthwise in half with the face side inward, and with the two [[selvedge]]s running together side by side.<ref name="dict"/><ref name="EB" /><ref name="record"/> To produce moire, ribbed rollers are used, and the ribs produce the watermark effect. The rollers polish the surface and make the fabric smoother and more lustrous.<ref>{{cite book |title= Textiles Technology|last= Cresswell|first= Lesley|author2=Barbara Lawler |author3=Helen Wilson |author4=Susanna Watkins |year= 2002|publisher= Heinemann|isbn= 0-435-41786-X|page= 36|url= httphttps://books.google.com/books?id=mjbp-RcxI1gC&dq|accessdateaccess-date=July 8, 2009}}</ref> High temperatures and pressure are used as well,<ref name="fabric"/> and the fabric is often damped before being run through the rollers. The end result is a peculiar luster resulting from the divergent reflection of the light rays on the material, a divergence brought about by compressing and flattening the warp and filling threads in places, thereby forming a surface which reflects light differently. The weft threads also are moved slightly.<ref name="EB" /><ref name="record">{{cite book |title= Textile World Record|year= 1907|publisher= Lord & Nagle Co.|page= 118|url= httphttps://books.google.com/books?id=ZfbNAAAAMAAJ&dq|accessdateaccess-date=July 8, 2009}}</ref>

''Changeable moire'' is a term for fabric with a warp of one color and a weft of another, which gives different effects in different lights.<ref>{{cite book |title= Victorian and Edwardian Fashions from "La Mode Illustrée"|last= Olian|first= JoAnne|year= 1997|publisher= Courier Dover Publications|isbn= 0-486-29711-X|url= httphttps://books.google.com/books?id=Ejh4jlhad3IC&pg=PR10&dq|accessdateaccess-date= July 8, 2009}}</ref> Examples include [[shot silk]].

During the [[Middle Ages]], moire was held in high esteem and was, as currently, used for women’s dresses, capes, and for facings, trimmings, etc.<ref name="Dooley">[http://www.gutenberg.org/files/24077/24077-8.txt William Dooley, '' Textiles for Commercial, Industrial and Domestic Arts Schools''], D. C. Heath & Company: 1910: pp:223</ref> Originally moire was only made of [[silk]] [[taffeta]],; however, now cotton and [[synthetic fiber]]s such as [[viscose]] (rayon) are also used.<ref name="fabric">{{cite book |title= Fabric Magic|last= Paine|first= Melanie|year= 1999|publisher= Frances Lincoln ltd|isbn=0-7112-0995-2 |page= 24 |url= httphttps://books.google.com/books?id=AkWAMNeLI6MC&dq|accessdateaccess-date= July 8, 2009}}</ref> Moire has been worn throughout the late 19th century and early 20th century, and is still used for [[Evening gown|evening dresses]] and [[wedding gowns]].

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