Max

Hi guys,

recently I fried my Creality 32bit 4.2.2 Board, and I'm looking for good options today to replace it.

If you were to upgrade an Ender 3 today, what controller board would you choose? Is SKR Mini E3 a good call yet?

Thanks

Hi, I've bricked my Ender 3 (board 4.2.2) firmware when trying to update it. Then I rebuilt a Marlin Firmware, put the bin file on the SD Card and turned my Ender on again.

At first, it was showing a message saying "err: eeprom version initialize eeprom", and below two options: "Ignore" and "Reset" which I could choose using the knob.

On other posts someone said that I had to enable the macro "#define EEPROM_AUTO_INIT " on the configuration, which Init EEPROM automatically on any errors.

Now, the Ender boots, but I can't access the menu, nor print nothing. The knob click doesn't work, and when u turn it clockwise it raises the "Fr" percentage. When I turn anticlockwise, it lowers the value. Also, theres a ">>" sign on the left of the "Fr" percentage would be. I don't know what it means, but I can't use the printer like this.

I've algo tried to flash other firmwares, official ones too, and it doesn't seem to help at all.

Anyone can help me?

Greetings folks!

I'm developing a device that's powerd by the line voltage, but in cases where voltage faults occurs, the device must send a last message to a remote server then enter in deepsleep mode, waking up only when the line voltage gets to normal.

Thus, the battery will be seldom used. And when it does, the current drawn will be minimum (max ~100mA for 4 seconds).

My real concern here is about the room temperature these LiPo batteris can withstand without blowing away.

This piece of equipement is supposed to stay on the sunlight every day, facing temperatures that range from 30 to 40 ºC.

Can anyone tell if these batteries can resist such temperatures? Or provide me with some experiences about scenarios like this?

Hi folks!

I'm developing a device that's intended to stay all day under the sunlight. It'll have a backup battery that will only be used when voltage shortage scenarios happen (rarely).

First I thought about using a few LiPo batteries that I've laid on my desk, but it crossed my mind the idea that maybe the sunlight would be a problem to it.

The device (and the battery) will be stored inside a specific case.

Somebody can help me with any advice or experiences about it?

POV: you're a 234 ED with no exani tera hotkey trying to survive.

Any other victims of switchblade stuck?

Hello folks,

I'm not sure if here would be the perfect sub to ask this question, but here it goes.

I'm trying to build some sort of device where I have a pendant sustained by a manga cable with one end tied up on the pendant, to power some electric circuits, and the other end is designed to be connected to my power source and a controller on the top of this device. This cable must wind up on some sort of shaft, driven by a motor that will lift the pendant.

The problem here is that I have no experience building such rotational connections, and I have no idea of how I could design the shaft/cable/controller joint in order to provide a continuous electrical connection.

At first, I thought of searching for some elevators models, because it does look a lot like it, but the with the elevator models, the cable is purely metallic and does not provide electrical connections, the way mine does.

Anyone could help me with some insights of ideas of how I could build such a model?

Thank you for your attention.

Hello guys.

I was wondering what would be the best way to go from 12V to 3.3V which will be used later to power an ESP8266.

For what I've seen about the AMS1117 chip, the maximum input voltage that it is able to handle is about 18V.

Does anyone here have experience in stepping down this much voltage with a voltage regulator? I wonder if the regulator will heat too much when powering only the ESP itself...

Also, I'm trying to avoid using a Buck Converter.

Thank you for your attention.