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2022 IFSC Climbing World Cup

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2022 IFSC Climbing World Cup
OrganiserIFSC
Edition34th
Events
20
  • 7 Boulder
    7 Lead
    6 Speed
Locations
11
Dates8 April – 22 October 2022
Boulder
MenJapan Yoshiyuki Ogata
WomenUnited States Natalia Grossman
← 2021
2023 →

The 2022 IFSC Climbing World Cup is the 34th edition of the international sport climbing competition series organised by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), held in 11 locations. There are 20 events: six bouldering, six lead, six speed, and one bouldering & lead combined events. The series began on 8 April in Meiringen, Switzerland with the first bouldering competitions of the season, and concludes on 22 October in Morioka-Iwate, Japan, which introduces the Boulder & Lead combined format that will be used at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris.


The top 3 in each competition receive medals, and the overall winners are awarded trophies. At the end of the season, an overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

Scheduling

The IFSC announced the 2022 World Cup schedule in October 2021. The series was initially scheduled to open in Moscow instead of the traditional curtain-raiser in Meiringen, Switzerland, and repeats the back-to-back events held in Salt Lake City, introduced in the 2021 series[1] The IFSC followed up in December 2021 with an announcement of Koper, Slovenia as a first-time host city, a change from the traditional host city of Kranj, Slovenia which hosted a World Cup event 25 times between 1996 and 2021, as well as Wujiang as the last stop in the circuit.[2]

On 25 February 2022, the IFSC announced the suspension of the Boulder and Speed World Cup in Moscow scheduled for April, following the Russian invasion of Ukraine.[3] On 22 March 2022, the federation announced that the suspended Moscow Boulder World Cup event was rescheduled to take place in Brixen, Italy from 10 to 12 June 2022.[4]

On 24 March 2022, the IFSC announced that the World Cup originally scheduled to take place in Bali, Indonesia, would now take place in Jakarta.[5]

On 20 May 2022, the IFSC announced the cancellation of two World Cup events in China, Wujiang (Lead & Speed) from 30 September to 2 October and Chongqing (Lead & Boulder) from 6 to 9 October, citing concerns over the COVID-19 pandemic.[6]

Later in May, the federation announced that the Boulder World Cup event originally scheduled for Japan in May would be rescheduled as a Boulder & Lead World Cup in Morioka-Iwate, Japan from 20 to 22 October. This would be the first IFSC event to feature the Boulder & Lead combined format that will be used at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris.[7]

Overview

No. Dates Location Disciplines: Boulder/Lead/Speed Gender: Men/Women Gold Silver Bronze
1 8–10 April Switzerland Meiringen B M Japan Tomoa Narasaki 2T3Z 3 6 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 2T3Z 5 19 France Mejdi Schalck 2T3Z 7 9
W Slovenia Janja Garnbret 4T4Z 5 5 United States Natalia Grossman 3T4Z 8 16 Switzerland Andrea Kümin 1T2Z 1 3
2 6–8 May South Korea Seoul B M Japan Kokoro Fujii 4T4Z 11 4 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 4T4Z 12 8 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 3T4Z 6 7
W United States Natalia Grossman 4T4Z 7 5 France Oriane Bertone 3T4Z 5 5 United States Brooke Raboutou 3T3Z 6 5
S M Indonesia Veddriq Leonardo 6.965 Indonesia Kiromal Katibin false start Indonesia Rahmad Adi Mulyono 5.587
W Poland Aleksandra Mirosław 6.723 United States Emma Hunt 7.236 Poland Aleksandra Kałucka 7.249
3 20–22 May United States Salt Lake City B M France Mejdi Schalck 4T4Z 9 6 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 4T4Z 11 10 Japan Rei Kawamata 3T4Z 14 12
W United States Natalia Grossman 4T4Z 9 9 United States Brooke Raboutou 3T4Z 5 14 Japan Miho Nonaka 3T4Z 9 18
S M Indonesia Kiromal Katibin 5.643 United States Noah Bratschi fall Indonesia Veddriq Leonardo 5.595
W Poland Aleksandra Mirosław 6.934 Poland Aleksandra Kałucka 7.838 Poland Natalia Kałucka 7.521
4 27–29 May United States Salt Lake City B M Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 4T4Z 5 5 Slovenia Anze Peharc 4T4Z 5 5 Japan Kokoro Fujii 4T4Z 9 8
W United States Natalia Grossman 4T4Z 10 4 Japan Miho Nonaka 3T4Z 5 5 United States Brooke Raboutou 3T4Z 6 4
S M Indonesia Veddriq Leonardo 6.330 Austria Tobias Plangger fall Italy Ludovico Fossali 5.490
W Poland Aleksandra Mirosław 6.548 United States Emma Hunt fall Poland Aleksandra Kałucka 7.963
5 10–12 June Italy Brixen[Note 1] B M Germany Yannick Flohé 2T4Z 5 9 United Kingdom Maximillian Milne 2T3Z 6 9 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 1T4Z 4 9
W United States Natalia Grossman 4T4Z 6 5 Germany Hannah Meul 4T4Z 6 6 China Zhilu Luo 2T4Z 5 9
6 22–25 June Austria Innsbruck B M United States Colin Duffy 3T4Z 12 9 South Korea Lee Dohyun 2T4Z 10 12 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 2T4Z 10 14
W United States Natalia Grossman 4T4Z 5 5 Germany Hannah Meul 4T4Z 7 6 Japan Miho Nonaka 2T2Z 3 2
L M United States Colin Duffy 38+ Japan Ao Yurikusa 37+ United States Jesse Grupper 37+
W Slovenia Janja Garnbret 39+ South Korea Seo Chae-hyun 27+ United States Brooke Raboutou 27+
7 30 June–2 July Switzerland Villars L M
W
S M
W
8 8–10 July France Chamonix L M
W
S M
W
9 22–23 July France Briançon L M
W
10 2–3 September Slovenia Koper L M
W
11 22–24 September Indonesia Jakarta[Note 2]
 L M
W
S M
W
12 20-22 October Japan Morioka-Iwate B&L M
W

[1]

  1. ^ Originally scheduled to be held in Moscow, Russia on 1–3 April.
  2. ^ Originally scheduled to be held in Bali.

Competition highlights

In the speed competition at the Seoul World Cup on 6 May, Indonesia's Kiromal Katibin and Poland's Aleksandra Mirosław set the world record for their respective genders' at 5.17 seconds and 6.64 seconds, respectively.[8] Two weeks later, Katibin and Mirosław broke their own records in Salt Lake City, at 5.10 seconds and 6.53 seconds, respectively.[9]

Natalia Grossman of the United States repeated her women's bouldering overall series win with five straight gold medals, only missing the gold when she finished second to Janja Garnbret of Slovenia, who sat out most of the bouldering season.[10] Yoshiyuki Ogata of Japan also repeated as the overall bouldering series winner, and he was joined by fellow Japanese climbers Tomoa Narasaki with the silver and Kokoro Fujii with the bronze, completing a Japanese sweep of the bouldering series podium.[11]

At Innsbruck in June, Colin Duffy of the United States won both the bouldering and lead gold medals, becoming the first male athlete to win both disciplines in the same IFSC World Cup event.[12]

Bouldering

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. The end-of-season standings are based on the sum of points earned from the five best finishes for each athlete. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2022:[13]

Rank Name Points Meiringen Seoul Salt Lake City I Salt Lake City II Brixen Innsbruck
1 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 3990 2. 805 3. 690 2. 805 1. 1000 5. (545) 3. 690
2 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 3405 1. 1000 2. 805 7. 455 — 3. 690 7. 455
3 Japan Kokoro Fujii 3110 6. 495 1. 1000 14. (260) 3. 690 9. 380 5. 545
4 Germany Yannick Flohé 2475 — — 5. 545 7. 435 1. 1000 6. 495
5 France Mejdi Schalck 2294 3. 690 7. 455 1. 1000 21. 137.5 — 43 11.5
6 United Kingdom Maximillian Milne 2215 8. 415 8. 415 13. (280) 12. 300 2. 805 14. 260
7 South Korea Lee Dohyun 2128.5 41. 13.5 10. 350 — 10. 350 4. 610 2. 805
8 United States Colin Duffy 1976 5. 545 — 21. 137.5 13. 280 41 13.5 1. 1000
9 South Korea Chon Jong-won 1957.5 21. 112.5 12 300 — 4. 610 11. 325 4. 610
10 Japan Rei Kawamata 1774.5 31. 39.5 — 3. 690 5. 545 14. 260 15. 240

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2022:[13]

Rank Name Points Meiringen Seoul Salt Lake City I Salt Lake City II Brixen Innsbruck
1 United States Natalia Grossman 5000 2. (805) 1. 1000 1. 1000 1. 1000 1. 1000 1. 1000
2 Japan Miho Nonaka 3210 26. (68) 8. 415 3. 690 2. 805 4. 610 3. 690
3 United States Brooke Raboutou 2940 12. 300 3. 690 2. 805 3. 690 — 7. 455
4 Japan Futaba Ito 2560 5. 545 15. (240) 9. 380 4. 610 8. 415 4. 610
5 Germany Hannah Meul 2345 7. 455 — 13. 280 — 2. 805 2. 805
6 France Oriane Bertone 2316.5 4. 610 2. 805 7. 455 8. 415 — 33. 31.5
7 Austria Jessica Pilz 2215 18. (185) 7. 455 4. 610 13. 280 7. 455 8. 415
8 Serbia Staša Gejo 2195 6. 495 4. 610 8. 415 11. 325 10. 350 16. (220)
9 Italy Camilla Moroni 1820 13. 280 5. 545 6. 495 17. (205) 16. 220 13. 280
10 South Korea Seo Chae-hyun 1770 17. (205) 14. 260 5. 545 12. 300 13. 280 5. 545

* = Joint place with another athlete

Speed

Main article: Speed climbing at the 2022 IFSC Climbing World Cup

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There were two competitions in the season. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2022:[14]

Rank Name Points Seoul Salt Lake City I Salt Lake City II Villars Chamonix Jakarta
1 Indonesia Veddriq Leonardo 2690 1. 1000 3. 690 1. 1000
2 Indonesia Kiromal Katibin 2350 2. 805 1. 1000 5. 545
3 Italy Ludovico Fossali 1910 4. 610 4. 610 3. 690
4 Austria Tobias Plangger 1390 8. 415 19. 170 2. 805
5 Spain Erik Noya Cardona 1160 11. 325 9. 380 7. 455
6 France Guillaume Moro 1080 7. 455 11. 325 12. 300
7 United States John Brosler 1058 38. 18 5. 545 6. 495
8 United States Samuel Watson[disambiguation needed] 1050 16. 220 8. 415 8. 415
9 Poland Marcin Dzienski 960 — 10. 350 4. 610
10 United States Noah Bratschi 910.5 25. 95 2. 805 45. 10.5

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2022:[14]

Rank Name Points Seoul Salt Lake City I Salt Lake City II Villars Chamonix Jakarta
1 Poland Aleksandra Mirosław 3000 1. 1000 1. 1000 1. 1000
2 United States Emma Hunt 2220 2. 805 4. 610 2. 805
3 Poland Aleksandra Kałucka 2185 3. 690 2. 805 3. 690
4 Poland Natalia Kałucka 1580 13. 280 3. 690 4. 610
5 Germany Franziska Ritter 1405 4. 610 9. 380 8. 415
6 France Capucine Viglione 1300 6. 495 10. 350 7. 455
7 Italy Beatrice Colli 1250 12. 300 7. 455 6. 495
8 Poland Patrycja Chudziak 1200 11. 325 6. 495 9. 380
9 Italy Giulia Randi 1000 22. 130 11. 325 5. 545
10 Germany Nuria Brockfeld 995 8. 415 13. 280 12. 300

* = Joint place with another athlete

Lead

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There were five competitions in the season. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed in parentheses are not counted.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2022:[15]

Rank NAME Points Innsbruck Villars Chamonix Briançon Koper Jakarta
1 United States Colin Duffy 1000 1. 1000
2 Japan Ao Yurikusa 805 2. 805
3 United States Jesse Grupper 690 3. 690
4 Slovenia Luka Potočar 610 4. 610
5 Austria Jakob Schubert 545 5. 545
6 Japan Satone Yoshida 495 6. 495
7 Germany Yannick Flohé 455 7. 455
8 Germany Alexander Megos 415 8. 415
9 Japan Taisei Homma 380 9. 380
10 Switzerland Sascha Lehman 350 10. 350

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2022:[15]

Rank NAME Points Innsbruck Villars Chamonix Briançon Koper Jakarta
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 1000 1. 1000
2 South Korea Seo Chae-hyun 805 2. 805
3 United States Brooke Rabatou 690 3. 690
4 Italy Laura Rogora 610 4. 610
5 Japan Natsuki Tanii 545 5. 545
6 United States Natalia Grossman 495 6. 495
7 Slovenia Vita Lukan 455 7. 455
8 Austria Jessica Pilz 415 8. 415
9 Germany Hannah Meul 380 9. 380
10* United Kingdom Molly Thompson-Smith 337.5 10*. 337.5
10* France Manon Hily 337.5 10*. 337.5

* = Joint place with another athlete

Medal table

RankNationGoldSilverBronzeTotal
1 United States (USA)75416
2 Japan (JPN)35715
3 Poland (POL)3137
4 Indonesia (INA)3126
5 Slovenia (SLO)2103
6 Germany (GER)1203
7 France (FRA)1113
8 South Korea (KOR)0202
9 Austria (AUT)0101
 Great Britain (GBR)0101
11 China (CHN)0011
 Italy (ITA)0011
 Switzerland (SWI)0011
Totals (13 entries)20202060

References

  1. ^ a b "IFSC PRESENTS THE 2022 CALENDAR" (Press release). International Federation of Sport Climbing. 5 October 2021. Retrieved 13 October 2021.
  2. ^ "KOPER, SLOVENIA, AND WUJIANG, CHINA, TO HOST IFSC WORLD CUP COMPETITIONS IN 2022" (Press release). International Federation of Sport Climbing. 14 December 2021. Retrieved 14 December 2021.
  3. ^ "IFSC SUSPENDS WORLD CUP IN MOSCOW" (Press release). International Federation of Sport Climbing. 25 February 2022. Retrieved 25 February 2022.
  4. ^ "BRIXEN, ITALY TO HOST RESCHEDULED IFSC BOULDER WORLD CUP IN JUNE" (Press release). International Federation of Sport Climbing. 22 March 2022. Retrieved 23 March 2022.
  5. ^ "INDONESIAN LEG OF IFSC WORLD CUP SERIES 2022 MOVED TO JAKARTA" (Press release). International Federation of Sport Climbing. 24 March 2022. Retrieved 31 March 2022.
  6. ^ "Two IFSC World Cups cancelled in China due to pandemic". Planet Mountain. 20 May 2022.
  7. ^ "JAPAN TO HOST IFSC BOULDER & LEAD WORLD CUP THIS FALL" (Press release). IFSC. 25 May 2022.
  8. ^ Tulloch, Ash (6 May 2022). "Aleksandra Miroslaw and Leonardo Veddriq triumph in speed event at World Cup in Seoul". Olympics.com. Retrieved 27 June 2022.
  9. ^ Tulloch, Ash (27 May 2022). "Aleksandra Miroslaw sets third straight world record on her way to winning speed event in Salt Lake City". Olympics.com. Retrieved 27 June 2022.
  10. ^ Walker, Noah (24 June 2022). "Natalia Grossman Earns Fifth Consecutive Boulder World Cup Gold Medal". Gripped. Retrieved 27 June 2022.
  11. ^ "Sport climbing: Yoshiyuki Ogata crowned season champion, Japan dominates". Mainichi Japan. 24 June 2022. Retrieved 27 June 2022.
  12. ^ Walker, Noah (June 26, 2022). "Janja Garnbret Returns and Colin Duffy Makes IFSC History at Innsbruck World Cup". Gripped. Retrieved June 27, 2022.
  13. ^ a b "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2022 RESULTS". IFSC. Retrieved 2022-06-27.
  14. ^ a b "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2022 RESULTS". IFSC. Retrieved 2022-06-27.
  15. ^ a b "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2022 RESULTS". IFSC. Retrieved 2022-06-27.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
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