MXPA06003531A - Dye composition with a reduced content of starting materials, and process for dyeing keratin fibers using the same - Google Patents
Dye composition with a reduced content of starting materials, and process for dyeing keratin fibers using the sameInfo
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- MXPA06003531A MXPA06003531A MXPA/A/2006/003531A MXPA06003531A MXPA06003531A MX PA06003531 A MXPA06003531 A MX PA06003531A MX PA06003531 A MXPA06003531 A MX PA06003531A MX PA06003531 A MXPA06003531 A MX PA06003531A
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Abstract
The present disclosure relates to a dye composition comprising water in an amount of at least 40%by weight, relative to the total weight of the dye composition. The present disclosure also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibers, such as human keratin fibers, using the dye composition as disclosed herein. The dye composition also comprises at least one dye chosen from oxidation dye precursors and direct dyes;atleast one surfactant chosen from nonionic and anionic surfactants;at least one hydroxyethylcellulose;at least one fatty substance;wherein the weight ratio of the total amount of surfactants to the total amount of the at least one fatty substance is greater than or equal to 1.75;and also comprising at least one cationic associative polymer. The present disclosure also relates to a multi-compartment kit comprising a first compartment comprising at least one dye composition as disclosed herein, and a second compartment comprising at least one oxidizing composition.
Description
COLORING COMPOSITION WITH DECREASED CONTENT IN RAW MATERIALS AND FIBER COLORING PROCEDURE
KERATINICAS USING THIS COMPOSITION
FIELD OF THE INVENTION The subject of the present invention is a coloring composition having a water content of at least 40% by weight, as well as a process for coloring keratin fibers, especially human fibers, using such a composition. It also relates to a multi-compartment device containing, on the one hand, the coloring composition and, on the other hand, an oxidizing composition. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION There are essentially two types of coloration of keratin fibers, especially human ones, such as hair. The first, called oxidation coloration or permanent coloration, consists in using precursors of oxidation dyes, which are little or no colored substances. When placed in the presence of an oxidizing agent, these compounds produce, by a process of oxidative condensation that takes place within the fiber itself, colored substances that remain trapped in the fiber. Ref .: 171838 The second, called direct or semi-permanent coloration, is obtained using colored compounds and dyes that have an affinity for the keratin fibers on which they are applied. This type of coloration does not need to use an oxidizing agent to reveal the color, although it is not excluded that this type of agent is present during the procedure. It is then spoken in this last case of direct coloring lightening. The coloring compositions of the state of the art are presented, in most cases, in the form of liquids, gels or creams, which are mixed, if necessary, before application on the fibers with an oxidizing composition. The coloring compositions are more often relatively rich in raw materials, among which are usually found fatty substances, surfactants and / or polymers. These compositions are formulated in such a way that they have easy-to-work extension and texturing properties in order to allow quick and easy application on the fibers, while being sufficiently thick so as not to spill out of the areas to be colored. . In addition, these compositions must remain stable during the resting time on the fibers and be easily removable by rinsing once the coloration has been obtained.
Now, it is not uncommon to note that important quantities of raw materials are opposed to the coloring yields of such compositions. It is thus possible to observe a less favorable kinetics, a diminished intensity of the hue obtained, a worse homogeneity of the color of one fiber to the other and / or according to the place of the fiber (root / tip), etc. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The object of the present invention is therefore to propose coloring compositions that do not have the aforementioned drawbacks of the current coloring compositions, while retaining the aforementioned properties. Such an objective is achieved by the present invention, which therefore, it has as an object coloring compositions containing, in an appropriate medium for dyeing the keratin fibers: • at least one oxidation dye precursor and / or at least one direct dye; • at least one nonionic, anionic surfactant or its mixtures; • at least one hydroxyethylcellulose; • at least one cationic associative polymer; • at least one fatty body;
• the weight ratio of the total amount of nonionic and anionic surfactants to the total amount of fatty substances greater than or equal to 1.75, and • the water content in the coloring composition representing at least 40% by weight with respect to to the weight of said coloring composition. The subject of the invention is also a method for coloring keratin fibers using such a composition, as the case may be in the presence of an oxidizing composition. It is finally related to a device that has a first compartment that stores a coloring composition according to the invention and that has a second compartment that holds an oxidizing composition. The composition according to the invention causes less degradation of the coloring properties and makes it possible to obtain more powerful, more homogeneous and more chromatic colorations, giving the treated fibers good cosmetic properties and limiting their degradation. The compositions according to the present invention also have an ideal texture for use in dyeing human keratin fibers, and in particular hair. They are, in fact, unctuous, thick enough for a quick and easy application, with a good elimination by rinsing, without spilling out of the areas of the hair that you wish to treat. But other characteristics and advantages of the invention will appear more clearly when reading the description and the examples given below. In the following, and unless a different indication is given, it is specified that the limits of ranges of values are included in these ranges. When mention is made of a fatty chain compound, this chain is a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or non-saturated, linear or branched, having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms. Furthermore, the present invention is suitable for the coloring of keratin fibers, especially human fibers, such as, more particularly, hair. Thus, as indicated above, the coloring composition according to the invention has a water content of at least 40% by weight with respect to the weight of said coloring composition. According to a more particular variant, the water content in the composition according to the invention represents at least 45% by weight with respect to the weight of said coloring composition. According to a particularly preferred mode of the invention, the water content represents at least 50% by weight with respect to the weight of said coloring composition. The composition according to the invention further includes at least one nonionic or anionic surfactant, or mixtures thereof. More particularly, the nonionic surfactant is selected from: • oxyalkylenated or glycerolated fatty alcohols; • alkylphenols whose alkyl chain is C8-C? 8, oxyalkylenated; • Oxyalkylenated or glycerolated fatty amides; • Oxyalkylenated vegetable oils; • esters of C6-C30 sorbitan acids optionally oxyalkylenated; • esters of sucrose fatty acids optionally oxyalkylenated; • fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; • alkyl (C3-C30) polyglycosides; • N-alkyl (C6-C30) glucamine derivatives; • amine oxides, such as alkyl (Cao-Ca) amines oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides; • copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene, and
• their mixtures.
More particularly, the average number of oxyalkylenated units is advantageously between 2 and 150 units. Preferably, they are oxyethylenated, oxypropylenated units or mixtures thereof. With regard to the polyglycerolated surfactants, they preferably have on average from 1 to 20 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 5. According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition includes at least one nonionic surfactant. selected from "C30 oxyalkylenated or glycerolated alcohols." As regards the anionic surfactant, the latter is more particularly selected from: • (C3-C30 alkyl) sulfates, (C6-C3) alkyl ether sulfates, (C6-C30 alkyl) amido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates and monoglyceride sulphates; • (C6-C30 alkyl) sulphonates, (C6-C30) alkylsulphonates, (C3-C30) alkyl arylsulfonates, α-olefinsulfonates and parafinsulfonates; • (C6-C30 alkyl) phosphates; • (C3-C30) alkyl sulfosuccinates, (C6-C30 alkyl) ether sulfosuccinates and (C3-C30 alkyl) -amidasulfosuccinates;
• alkyl (C3-C30) sulphoacetates; • acyl (C6-C2) sarcosinates;
• acyl (C6-C24) glutamates; • alkyl (C6-C30) polyglycoside carboxylic and alkyl (C6-C30) polyglycoside sulfosuccinates; • alkyl (C3-C30) sulfosuccinamates; • acyl (C6-C2) isethionates, - • N-acyl (C3-C24) taurates; • salts of fatty acids and acid salts of copra oil or hydrogenated copra oil; • acyl (C8-C20) lactylates; • salts of alkyl (C6-C30) -D-galactoside uronic acids; • polyoxyalkylenated polyoxyalkylenated (C3-C30) alkyl (C6-C30) carboxylic ether alkyl polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic alkyl (Ce-C30) amido ether carboxylic acids; • and their mixtures. These anionic surfactants are advantageously in the form of salts in the composition according to the invention, especially alkali metal salts, such as sodium; of alkaline earth metals, such as, for example, magnesium; of ammonium salts; of salts of amines, and salts of aminoalcohols. They could also be found, depending on the conditions, in their acid form. It should be noted that the alkyl or acyl radicals of these different compounds preferably have from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. Preferably, the aryl radical represents a phenyl or benzyl group. In addition, the polyoxyalkylenated anionic surfactants preferably have from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant is selected from the salts of fatty acids. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the total content of nonionic and / or anionic surfactant represents from 0.01% to 50% by weight with respect to the weight of the coloring composition, preferably from 0.5 to 50% by weight. 40% by weight with respect to the weight of the coloring composition. Among the ingredients of the composition according to the invention is hydroxyethylcellulose. Preferably, the molecular weight of the hydroxyethyl cellulose which forms part of the composition according to the invention is at least 700,000 and even more preferably at least 106. The molecular weight can be determined from various techniques, including chromatography permeation by gel and chromatography by size exclusion.
Among the appropriate compounds, mention may be made in particular of hydroxyethylcellulose with a molecular weight of 1.3 x 10s, sold, for example, under the trade name NATROSOL 250 HHR by the company Aqualon (Hercules), hydroxyethylcellulose with a molecular weight of 106, sold under the trade name CELLOSIZE HYDROXYETHYL CELLULOSE PCG-10 by the Amerchol Company, and the hydroxyethylcellulose with a molecular weight of 720,000, sold under the trade name NATROSOL 250 MR by the Aqualon Company (Hercules). Advantageously, the hydroxyethylcellulose content represents from 0.01% to 5% by weight with respect to the weight of the coloring composition, preferably from 0.05 to 2.5% by weight with respect to the weight of the coloring composition. And more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight with respect to the weight of the coloring composition. As indicated above, the composition further includes at least one fatty body. Advantageously, the fatty substance is selected from non-oxyalkylenated and non-glycerolated fatty alcohols, non-oxyalkylenated and non-glycerolated fatty acid amides, mono- and polyesters of carboxylic acids, mineral oils, vegetable oils or mixtures thereof. As regards the fatty alcohols, mention may be made of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, C8-C30, more particularly C10-C2, preferably C? 2_C24, optionally bearing at least one other hydroxyl group. By way of examples, mention may be made, among others, of the oleic, lauric, palmitic, myristic, behenic, stearic, linoleic, linolenic, capric, arachidonic alcohols or their mixtures. The fatty acid amides are more particularly selected from the compounds deriving from an alkanolamine and a C8-C30 fatty acid. Preferably, they are chosen from the amides of a C 2 -C 0 alkanolamine and a C 4 -C 30 fatty acid, and even more preferably from the amides of a C 2 -C 0 alkanolamine and a C 14 -C 22 fatty acid. Advantageously, the fatty acid amide is chosen from: the oleic acid diethanolamide, such as the amide sold under the trade name MEXANYL GT by the company CHIMEX; - the monoethanolamide of myristic acid, such as the amide sold under the trade name COMPERLAN® MM by the company COG? IS; - the fatty acid diethanolamide of soy, such as the amide sold under the trade name COMPERLAN® VOD by the company COG? IS;
- ethanolamide of stearic acid, such as the amide sold under the trade name MONAMID 'S by the company UNIQEMA; - the monoisopropanolamide of oleic acid, such as the amide marketed under the trade name
WITCAMIDE 61 by the company WITCO; - the diethanolamide of linoleic acid, such as the amide sold under the trade name PURTO? 81 SFD by the company ZSCHIMMER SCHWARZ; - the monoethanolamide of stearic acid, such as the amide sold under the trade name MO? AMID® 972 by the company ICI / U? IQEMA; - the monoethanolamide of behenic acid, such as the amide sold under the trade name I? CROMIDE® BEM of CRODA; the monoisopropanolamide of isostearic acid, such as the amide sold under the trade name WITCAMIDE® SPA by the company WITCO; - the erucic acid diethanolamide, such as the amide sold under the trade name erucic acid diethanolamide by the company STEARI? ERIES DUBOIS; - the monoethanolamide of ricinoleic acid, such as the amide sold under the trade name monoethanolamide ricinoleica by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS. As regards the mono- or polyesters of carboxylic acids, the latter, linear or branched, saturated or not, advantageously comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain, more particularly C? O-C24, preferably C? 2_C24 / from the acidic or alcoholic part, and at least one C? -C8 chain, preferably Ci-Ce. In addition, if the carboxylic acid contains several carboxylic functions, these are preferably all esterified. Finally, it should be noted that the alcohols are preferably monofunctional alcohols. By way of example, the esters of oleic, lauric, palmitic, myristic, behenic, stearic, linoleic, linolenic, capric, arachidonic acids or mixtures thereof, such as the oleo-palmitic, oleo-stearic, palmetto-stearic, mixtures may be mentioned. , etc. Mention may also be made of the isopropyl diester of sebacic acid (diisopropyl sebacate), dioctyl adipate and dicaprylyl maleate. Preferably, the esters are selected from those obtained from C ?2-C2 acids, more particularly containing a carboxylic group, and from a linear or branched saturated monoalcohol, C3-Ce. According to this particularly advantageous variant of the invention, the ester is selected from isopropyl palmitate and isopropyl myristate, alone or in mixtures. Paraffin oil is an example of mineral oil that can be used as a fatty substance in the composition. As regards vegetable oils, mention may be made particularly of avocado oil, olive oil or liquid jojoba wax. Preferably, the fatty substance is selected from non-oxyalkylenated and non-glycerolated fatty alcohols. According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the total content of fatty substances represents at most 10% by weight of the coloring composition. Preferably, the total content in fatty substances represents from 1 to 9% by weight with respect to the weight of the coloring composition. According to the invention, the weight ratio of the total amount of nonionic and anionic surfactants with respect to the amount of fatty substances is greater than 1.75, more particularly greater than 2 or preferably higher than 3. The weight ratio of the total amount of surfactants nonionic and anionic with respect to the total amount of fatty substances is advantageously less than 20, more particularly less than 15 and preferably less than 10. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION As indicated above, the composition according to the invention has at least a cationic associative polymer. The chemical structure of the associative polymers is characterized by the presence of hydrophilic zones which ensure solubility in water and hydrophobic zones by which the polymers in an aqueous medium join together or with the hydrophobic parts of other molecules. Such polymers are also capable, in an aqueous medium, to associate reversibly with each other or with other molecules. The associative polymers used in the context of the invention are more particularly amphiphilic polymers which carry at least one fatty chain. By polymer, it is understood in the sense of the invention compounds that present in their. structure the repetition of at least one chaining other than the chain of ethylene oxide or propylene or glycerol if this type of chaining is present. Advantageously, the cationic associative polymer present in the composition according to the invention is selected from quaternized cellulose derivatives, cationic polyurethanes, cationic polyvinyl lactams and cationic acrylic terpolymers.; These compounds contain at least one fatty chain. The quaternized cellulose derivatives These polymers are advantageously selected from: - the quaternized celluloses modified by groups carrying at least one fatty chain, such as the alkyl, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups preferably bearing at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures of these; quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups carrying at least one fatty chain, such as the alkyl, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups preferably bearing at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof. The alkyl radicals carried by the celluloses or the above quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably have from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably represent the phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups. Mention may be made, as examples of quaternized algilhydroxyethylcelluloses with C8-C30 fatty chains, of the QUATRISOFT LM 200, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-A, QUATRISOFT LM-X 520-18B (Ci2 alkyl) and QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-8 ( C18 alkyl) marketed by the company AMERCHOL and the products CRODACEL QM, CRODACEL QL (CX2 alkyl) and CRODACEL QS (C? 8 alkyl) marketed by the company CROD. The cationic polyurethanes According to a particular variant of the invention, the suitable cationic associative polyurethanes correspond to the following general formula: (R) - (P) n- [L- (Y) r-L- (P ') p- X'-R '(la) where: R and RA identical or different, represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom; X and
X ', identical or different, represent a group carrying an amine function carrying or not a hydrophobic group, or also the group L "; L, L' and L", identical or different, represent a group derived from a isocyanate; and PA identical or different, represent a group carrying an amine function carrying or not a hydrophobic group; Y represents a hydrophilic group; r is an integer between 1 and 100, preferably between 1 and 50 and in particular between 1 and 25;
n, m and p are each independent of the others between 0 and 1,000; the molecule containing at least one protonated or quaternized amine function and at least one hydrophobic group. These compounds have been especially described in the European patent application EP1174450. In a preferred embodiment, the only hydrophobic groups are the R and R 'groups at the ends of the chain. A preferred family of cationic amphiphilic polyurethanes is that corresponding to the formula (la) described above and in which: R and R 'both independently represent a hydrophobic group; X and X 'each represent a group L "; n and p are between 1 and 1,000, and L, LA L", P, PA Y and m have the meaning indicated above. Another preferred family of cationic amphiphilic polyurethanes is that corresponding to formula (la) above in which: R and R 'both independently represent a hydrophobic group, X and X' each represent a group L ", n and p are 0 and L, LA L ", and ym have the meaning indicated above. The fact that n and p are 0 means that these polymers do not carry units derived from an amine functional monomer incorporated into the polymer in the polycondensation. The protonated amine functions of these polyurethanes result from the hydrolysis of excess isocyanate functions at the end of the chain, followed by alkylation of the primary amine functions formed by alkylating agents with hydrophobic group, ie compounds of type RQ or R ' Q, where R and R 'are such as defined above and Q represents a leaving group, such as a halide, a sulfate, etc. Still another preferred family of cationic amphiphilic polyurethanes is that corresponding to formula (la) above, in which: R and R 'both independently represent a hydrophobic group; X and X 'both independently represent a group carrying a quaternary amine; n and p are zero, and L, LA, and tn have the meaning indicated above. The number average molecular mass of the cationic amphiphilic polyurethanes is preferably between 400 and 500,000, in particular between 1,000 and 400,000 and ideally between 1,000 and 300,000. By hydrophobic group is meant a radical or polymer of hydrocarbon chain, saturated or not, linear or branched, which may contain one or more heteroatoms, such as P, O, N or S, or a perfluorinated or silicone chain radical. When it represents a hydrocarbon radical, the hydrophobic group carries at least 10 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the hydrocarbon group comes from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group can be derived from a fatty alcohol, such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol.
It may also represent a hydrocarbon polymer, such as, for example, polybutadiene. When X and / or X 'represent a group carrying a tertiary or quaternary amine, X and / or X' may represent one of the following formulas:
wherein: R 2 represents a linear or branched alkylene radical of 1 to 20 carbon atoms carrying or not a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, where one or more of the carbon atoms may be substituted by a heteroatom selected from N, S, 0 or P; Ri and 3r identical or different, represents a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl or alkenyl radical or an aryl radical, at least one of the carbon atoms being able to be substituted by a heteroatom selected from N, S, 0 and P; A- is a physiologically acceptable counter ion. The groups L, L 'and L "represent a group of formula:
-Z-C-NH-R.-NH-C-Z O O
wherein: Z represents -O-, -S- or -NH- and R4 represents a linear or branched alkylene radical of 1 to 20 carbon atoms carrying or not a saturated or unsaturated ring or an arylene radical, there being one or several of the carbon atoms substituted by a heteroatom selected from N, S, O and P. The groups P and P 'having an amine function may represent at least one of the following formulas;
where: Rs and R7 have the same meanings as R2 defined above; R6, R8 and Rg have the same meanings as Ri and
R3 defined above; Rio represents a linear or branched alkylene group, optionally unsaturated and which may contain one or more heteroatoms selected from N, O, S and P, and A ~ is a cosmetically acceptable counterion. In what refers to the meaning of Y, hydrophilic group means a water-soluble polymer group or not.
By way of example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol may be mentioned when they are not polymers. When it is a matter, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, of a hydrophilic polymer, mention may be made, by way of example, of polyethers, sulphonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides or a mixture of these polymers. Preferably, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether, and especially a poly (ethylene oxide) or a poly (propylene oxide). The hydrophilic group indicated as Y in the formula (la) is optional. In fact, the units with quaternary or protonated amine function may be sufficient to provide the solubility or hydrodispersibility required for this type of polymer in an aqueous solution. Although the presence of a hydrophilic group Y is optional, cationic amphiphilic polyurethanes carrying such a group are, however, preferred. Said cationic amphiphilic polyurethanes are water-soluble or water-dispersible. The cationic polyvinyl lactams The associative cationic poly (vinyl lactam) polymers which can be used in the context of the present invention include: a) at least one vinyl lactam or alkylvinyl lactam a type monomer; b) at least one monomer of the structures
(la) or (Ilb) following:
\
where: X represents an oxygen atom or a radical Re; Ri and Re represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical; R2 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical C? -C; R3, R and R5 represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C? -C30 alkyl radical or a radical of formula (Illb): - (Y2) r- (CH2-CH (R7 ) -0) x-R8 (Illb) Y, Yi and Y2 represent, independently of one another, a linear or branched C2-C6 alkylene radical; R7 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical Ca-C or a linear or branched hydroxyalkyl radical C? -C4; R8 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C? -C30 alkyl radical; P / g and r represent, independently of each other, either the value zero, or the value
1; m and n represent, independently of each other, an integer from 0 to 100; x represents an integer from 1 to 100, and Z represents an organic or mineral acid anion, with the proviso that: - at least one of the substituents R3, R4, Rs or R8 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical C9- C30, preferably C9-C30; - if mon is different from zero, then q is equal to 1, and - if mon is equal to zero, then poq is equal to 0. The associative cationic poly (vinyl-lactam) polymers which can be used according to the invention can be crosslinked or not cross-linked and can also be block polymers. Preferably, the counterion Z "of the monomers of formula (Ib) is selected from the halide ions, the phosphate ions, the methosulfate ion and the tosylate ion, preferably R3, R4 and R5 represent, independently of one another, a Hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 -C 30 alkyl radical More preferably, monomer b) is a monomer of formula (Ib) for which, even more preferably, m and n are equal to zero. lactam or alkylvinyl lactam is preferably a compound of structure (IVb):
where: s represents an integer from 3 to 6, R9 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C5 alkyl radical and Rio represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C5 alkyl radical, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R9 and R? o represents a hydrogen atom. Even more preferably, the monomer (IVb) is vinylpyrrolidone. The cationic poly (vinyl lactam) polymers can also contain one or more supplementary monomers, preferably cationic or non-ionic. As more particularly preferred compounds according to the invention, mention may be made of the following terpolymers, which comprise at least: a) a monomer of formula (IVb); b) a monomer of formula (Ib) wherein p = 1, q = 0, R 3 and R represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 5 alkyl radical and R 5 represents a C 3 -C 24 alkyl radical , preferably C9-C24, and c) a monomer of formula (Ilb) wherein R3 and R independently represent a hydrogen atom or a C? -C3 alkyl radical independently of one another. Even more preferably, terpolymers containing, by weight, from 40 to 95% monomer (a), from 0.1 to 55% monomer (c) and from 0.25 to 50% monomer (b) will be used. ). Said polymers are particularly described in the patent application WO 00/68282, the content of which forms an integral part of the invention. As poly (vinyllactam) Cationic the invention polymers are used in particular vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / tosylate dodecildimetilmetacrilamídopropilamonio, the terpolymers vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / tosylate cocoildimetilmetacrilamídopropilamonio or vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / tosylate or laurildimetilmetacrilamidopropilamonio chloride . The molecular weight of the cationic associative poly (vinyl lactam) polymers according to the present invention is preferably between 500 and 20 × 10 6. It is more particularly comprised between 200,000 and 2xl06 and even more preferably comprised between 400,000 and 800,000. Acrylic terpolymers Among these polymers, mention may be made of acrylic terpolymers containing: - from 5 to 80% by weight, preferably from 15 to 70% by weight and more preferably from 40 to 70% by weight of an acrylate monomer (a), selected from an alkyl acrylate C? ~ Ce and an alkyl methacrylate Ci-Cg; - from 5 to 80% by weight, preferably from 10 to 70% by weight and more preferably from 20 to 60% by weight of a monomer (b) selected from a heterocyclic vinyl compound containing at least one nitrogen or sulfur atom, a (meth) acrylamide, a mono- or dialkyl (C? -C4) aminoalkyl (C? ~ C) and a mono- or dialkyl (C? ~ C4) aminoalkyl (meth) acrylamide C? -C) (meth) -acrylamide; - from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, of a monomer (c) selected from (i) a urethane produced by reaction between a monoethylenically unsaturated isocyanate and a non-ionic surfactant with termination in C 4 -C 4 alkoxy; (ii) a block copolymer of 1,2-butylene oxide and 1,2-ethylene oxide; (iii) a copolymerizable ethylenic unsaturated surfactant monomer obtained by condensation of a nonionic surfactant with an α, β-ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acid or its anhydride; (iv) a surface-active monomer selected from the urea-type reaction products of a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate with a non-ionic surfactant having an amine function; (v) a (meth) allyl ether of formula CH2 = CR1CH2OAmBnApR2 wherein Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, A represents a propyleneoxy or butyleneoxy group, B represents ethyleneoxy, n is equal to zero or represents a whole number less than or equal to 200 and preferably less than 100, m and p represent zero or a lower whole number any R2 is a hydrophobic group of at least 8 carbon atoms and preferably C8-C3o, and (vi) a non-ionic urethane-type monomer produced by reaction of a monohydric nonionic surfactant with a monoethylenic unsaturated isocyanate; the percentages by weight of monomers being based on the total weight of the monomers constituting the terpolymer. Preferred acrylate monomers (a) include especially the C2-C6 alkyl acrylates. Ethyl acrylate is very particularly preferred. Examples of monomers (b) preferred, it is worth citing methacrylate N, N-dimethylaminoethyl (DMAEMA) acrylate, N, N-diethylaminoethyl methacrylate, N, N-diethylaminoethyl acrylate, Nt-butylaminoethyl the Nt-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N, N-dimeti1aminopropilacrilamida, N, N-dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide, N, N-diethylaminopropylacrylamide and?, N-diethylaminopropylmethacrylamide. The α, N-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate is very particularly preferred. Monomers (c) are preferred copolymerizable ethylenic unsaturated surfactant monomers obtained by condensing a nonionic surfactant with an unsaturated carboxylic acid, beta-ethylenic or its anhydride, preferably mono- or dicarboxylic acids C3-C or their anhydrides and particularly acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, maleic anhydride and very particularly itaconic acid and itaconic anhydride. Particularly preferred monomers (c) correspond to the copolymerizable ethylenic unsaturated surfactant monomers obtained by condensation of a nonionic surfactant with itaconic acid. Among the nonionic surfactants, there may be mentioned fatty alcohols C10"C30 alkoxylated with 2 to 100 and preferably 5 to 50 moles of alkylene oxide, for example, polyethylene glycol ethers of C fatty alcohols? O-C30 and more particularly the polyethylene glycol and cetyl alcohol ethers, referred to as CETETH in the CTFA dictionary, l 'edition, 1997. The person skilled in the art knows conventional methods for preparing these acrylic terpolymers, such methods include solution polymerization, Precipitation and Emulsion Polymerization Terpolymers according to the invention and their methods of preparation are described in particular in EP-A-0824914 and EP-A-0825200. Among these terpolymers, it is preferred to use, in particular, the polymer "STRUCTURE" ® PLUS ", sold by the company NATIONAL STARCH, which consists of acrylates, amino (meth) acrylates and itaconate of alkyl C? 0 -C30 polyoxyethylenated with 20 moles of ethylene oxide in the form of 20% aqueous dispersion of Active Material. In addition to these monomers, the terpolymers may contain other monomers that allow these terpolymers to crosslink. These monomers are used in fairly low proportions, up to 2% by weight with respect to the total weight of the monomers used to prepare the terpolymers. Such crosslinking monomers include aromatic monomers bearing several vinyl substituents, alicyclic monomers bearing several vínílieos substituents, bifunctional esters of phthalic acid, bifunctional esters of methacrylic acid, multifunctional esters of acrylic acid, N-methylenebisacrylamide and carriers aliphatic monomers more vinyl substituents , such as dienes, trienes and tetraenes. .Pueden be monomers special-mind crosslinking divinylbenzenes, trivinylbenzenes, 1,2,4-trivinylcyclohexene, 1, 5-hexadiene, 1, 5, 9-decatriene, 1,9-decadiene, 1, 5-heptadiene, diallyl phthalates , ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylates, penta- and tetraacrylates, triallyl pentaerythritol, octaallysaccharides, cycloparaffins, cycloolefins and N-methylenebisacrylamide. In the present invention, the cationic associative polymers are advantageously used in an amount which may vary from 0.01 to 5% by weight with respect to the weight of the coloring composition. Preferably, this amount varies from 0.05 to 2.5% by weight with respect to the weight of the coloring composition. According to an even more preferred embodiment, the cationic associative polymer content represents from 0.1 to 1% by weight with respect to the weight of the coloring composition. The composition according to the invention further includes at least one oxidation dye precursor and / or at least one direct dye. The oxidation dye precursor (s) are selected from the oxidation bases and the couplers or their mixtures. The oxidation bases are selected from the oxidation bases conventionally used for oxidation coloration, among which paraphenylenediamines, bisphenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases and their addition salts with an acid or with an alkaline agent. Among the para-phenylenediamines, para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-chloropara-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5- dimethylparaphenylenediamine, N, N-dimethylparaphenylenediamine, N, N-diethylparaphenylenediamine, N, N-dipropylparaphenylenediamine, 4-amino -?,? - diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,? -bis (b-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine , the
4 - . 4-N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylaniline, 4 -?,? - bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-β-hydroxyethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2-fluoropara-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropylparaphenylenediamine, N- (β-hydroxypropyl) paraphenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethylparaphenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-3-methylparaphenylenediamine, N, N- (ethyl-β-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine,? - (ß ^ -dihydroxypropyl) para-phenylenediamine, α- (4'-aminophenyl) paraphenylenediamine, α-phenylparaphenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-oxiparaphenylenediamine, 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxiparaphenylenediamine, β - (β-methoxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine and 4'- aminophenyl-1- (3-hydroxy) pyrrolidine and its addition salts with an acid or with an alkaline agent. Among the above-mentioned para-phenylenediamines, para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylene-diamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-oxipara-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2, 3-dimethylparaphenylenediamine, the α, β-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 2-chloroparaphenylendi mine, 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxyparaphenylenediamine and its addition salts with an acid or with an alkaline agent. Among the bisphenylallenediamines, mention may be made, more particularly, of the?,? -bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-di-minpropanol, the α, N'-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4 '-aminophenyl) -ethylenediamine, the?,?' -bis (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, the?,? ' -bis (β-hydroxyethyl) - ?, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4-ethylaminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (ethyl) -N, N '-bis (4' -amino-3 '-methylphenyl) ethylenediamine, 1,8-bis (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -3,5-dioxaoctane and its addition salts with an acid or with an alkaline agent. Among the para-aminophenols, mention may be made more particularly, for example, of para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2 -methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (R-hydroxyethylaminomethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2 -fluorophenol and its addition salts with an acid or with an alkaline agent. Among the ortho-aminophenols, mention may be made more particularly by way of example of 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol, 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol and their addition salts. with an acid or an alkaline agent. Among the heterocyclic bases, mention may be made more particularly, by way of example, of pyridine derivatives, in particular 2, 3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine;
pyrimidine derivatives, such as, in particular, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine or else 4-hydroxy-2-, 5,6-triaminopyridine, and pyrazole derivatives, in particular lNR-hydroxyethyl-4, 5- diaminopyrazole, and its addition salts with an acid or with an alkaline agent. When used, the oxidation base or bases advantageously represent from 0.0005 to 12% by weight with respect to the weight of the coloring composition, and preferably from 0.005 to 6% by weight with respect to the weight of the coloring composition. The composition can also include, associated with at least one oxidation base, at least one copulant to modify or enrich in reflections the shades obtained. The usable coupler (s) can be chosen from copulants conventionally used in oxidation staining, and among which, metaphenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, etho-diphenols and heterocyclic couplers and their addition salts with an acid or a alkaline agent. These couplers are more particularly selected from 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N- (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 2-methyl-5-amino-6-chlorophenol, 1, 3- dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-l, 3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-l- (β-hydroxyethyloxy) benzene, 2-amino-4- (β-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, ses mole, a-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, -hydroxy-N-methylindole, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2,6- dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-b] -1,2,4-triazole, 2 , 6-dimethyl- [3, 2-c] -1,2,4-triazole, 6-methylpyrazolo [1, 5-a] benzimidazole and its addition salts with an acid or with an alkaline agent. When present, the coupler (s) more particularly represent from 0.0001 to 15% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition and more especially from 0.005 to 12% by weight, based on the weight of the coloring composition. According to an even more advantageous embodiment, the coupler (s) represent from 0.01 to 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the coloring composition. In general, the addition salts with an acid are especially selected from hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, lactates and acetates. More particularly, the direct dye (s) are non-ionic, cationic or anionic in nature. - By way of non-limiting examples, mention may be made of nitrobenzene dyes, azo, azomethin, methinic, tetraazapentamethin, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, benzoquinone, phenothiazine, indigoid, xanthine, phenanthridine, phthalocyanine, triarylmethane derivatives and natural dyes, alone or in mixtures. It can be, for example, selected from the following red or orange nitrobenzene dyes: - l-hydroxy-3-nitro-4-N- (γ-hydroxypropyl) aminobenzene, - N- (ß-hydroxyethyl) amino-3-nitro -4-aminobenzene, - l-amino-3-methyl-4 -? - (ß-hydroxyethyl) amino-6-nitrobenzene, - l-hydroxy-3-nitro-4 -? - (ß-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene, - 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, -l-amino-2-nitro-4-methylaminobenzene, -? - (ß-hydroxyethyl) -2-nitroparaphenylenediamine, - l-amino-2-nitro-4- (ß- hydroxyethyl) amino-5-chlorobenzene, - 2-nitro-4-aminodiphenylamine, - l-amino-3-nitro-6-hydroxybenzene, - 1- (β-aminoethyl) amino-2-nitro-4- (β-hydroxyethyl) ) benzene, - 1- (ß,? - dihydroxypropyl) oxy-3-nitro-4- (ß-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene, - 1-hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene, - l-hydroxy-2-amino- 4,6-dinitrobenzene, - l-methoxy-3-nitro-4- (β-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene, - 2-nitro-4'-hydroxydiphenylamine, - l-amine-2-nitro-4-hydroxy-5-methylbenzene . The direct dye can also be selected from the yellow-green and yellow-green nitro benzene direct dyes; Mention may be made, for example, of compounds selected from: - 1-β-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene, - 1-methylamino-2-nitro-5- (β, β, dihydroxypropyl) oxybenzene, - (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methoxy-4-nitrobenzene, -1- (β-aminoethyl) amino-2-nitro-5-methoxybenzene, -1,3-di (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-4-nitro 6-chlorobenzene, - l-amino-2-nitro-6-methylbenzene, - 1- (ß-hydroxyethyl) mino-2-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene, - N- (ß-hydroxyethyl) -2-nitro-4- trifluoromethylaniline, - 4- (ß-hydroxyethyl) amino-3-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid, - 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid, - 4- (ß-hydroxyethyl) amino-3-nitrochlorobenzene, - 4- (ß-hydroxyethyl) mino -3-Nitromethylbenzene, 4- (β, β-dihydroxypropyl) Mino-3-Nitrotrifluoromethylbenzene, -1- (β-ureidoethyl) amino-4-nitrobenzene, -1,3-diamino-4-nitrobenzene, -1-hydroxy -2-amino-5-nitrobenzene, -l-amino-2- [tris (hydroxymethyl) methyl] amino-5-nitrobenzene, -1- (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene and 4- (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-3-nitrobenzamide.
Mention may also be made of blue or violet nitrobenzene direct dyes, such as, for example: 1- (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-4-N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, - 1- ( ? -hydroxypropyl) amino-4-N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 1- (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-4- (N-methyl-NP-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene , - 1- (ß-hydroxyethyl) amino-4- (N-ethyl-NP-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, - 1- (ß,? - dihydroxypropyl) amino-4- (N-ethyl-N-β -hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene and - the 2-nitroparaphenylenediamines of the following formula:
NRbRc
where - R b represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, a β-hydroxyethyl or β-hydroxypropyl or β-hydroxypropyl radical;
- Ra and Rc, identical or different, represent a radical β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl, β-hydroxypropyl or β, β-dihydroxypropyl, representing at least one of the radicals Rb, Rc or Ra a radical y-hydroxypropyl and not being able simultaneously designate R and Rc a β-hydroxyethyl radical when R is a? -hydroxypropyl radical, such as those described in French patent FR 2,692,572. Among the direct azo dyes which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of cationic azo dyes described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP 714,954, FR 2,822,696, FR 2,825,702, FR 2,825,625, FR 2,822,698, FR 2,822,693 , FR 2,822,694, FR 2,829,926, FR 2,807,650, WO 02/078660, WO 02/100834, WO 02/100369 and FR 2,844,269. Among these compounds, mention may be made in particular of the following dyes: 1,3-dimethyl-2- [[4- (dimethylamino) phenyl] azo] -lH-imidazolium chloride, 1,3-dimethyl-1,3-chloride 2- [(4-aminophenyl) -azo] -IH-imidazolium and l-methyl-4- [(methylphenylhydrazono) methyl] pyridinium methylisulfate. Mention may also be made, among the direct azo dyes, of the following dyes, described in COLOR INDEX INTERNATIONAL, 3 = edition: Dispersed Red 17, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Coffee 16, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Basic Coffee 17, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 24 and Disperse Black 9. Mention may also be made of l- (4'-aminodiphenylazole) -2- methyl-4-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene and 4-hydroxy-3- (2-methoxyphenylazo) -1-naphthalenesulfonic acid. Among the direct quinonic dyes, the following dyes may be mentioned: Red Dispersed 15, Violet Solvent 13, Violet Acid 43, Violet Dispersed 1, Violet Dispersed 4, Blue Dispersed 1, Violet Dispersed 8, Blue Dispersed 3, Red Dispersed 11, Blue Acid 62, Disperse Blue 7, Basic Blue 22, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, as well as the following compounds: - lN-Methylmorpholinopropropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone-l-aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone - 1-aminopropylaminoanthraquinone - 5-β- hydroxyethyl-1,4-diaminoanthraquinone-2-aminoethylaminoanthraquinone 1,4-bis- (β, α-dihydroxypropylamino) anthraquinone. Among the azine dyes, the following compounds can be mentioned: - Basic Blue 17 - Basic Red 2. Among direct cationic methine dyes, we can also cite Basic Red 14, Basic Yellow 13 and Basic Yellow 29. Among colorants triarylmethanes usable according to the invention, the following compounds can be mentioned: Basic Green 1, Acid Blue
9, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 7,
Basic Violet 49, Basic Blue 26 and Acid Blue 7. Among the midoamine dyes which can be used according to the invention, the following compounds may be mentioned: - 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5- [bis (β-4 '-hydroxyethyl) amino] - anilino-1,4-benzoquinone, -2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5- (2'-methoxy-4'-amino) anilino-1,4-benzoquinone, 3-N- (2'-chloro-4'-hydroxy) ) phenylacetylamino-6-methoxy-l, 4-benzoquinoneimine, - 3-N- (3'-chloro-4'-methylamino) phenylureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinoneimine and 3- [4'-N- ( ethylcarbamylmethyl) amino] phenylureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone. The composition may also include natural direct dyes, such as lawsona, juglone, alizarin, glitter, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogalin, protocatecaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin and apigenidin. You can also use extracts or de-cookings containing these natural dyes and, especially, poultices or extracts based on henna. The content of direct dyes, when present, advantageously represents from 0.0005 to 15% by weight with respect to the weight of the coloring composition and preferably from 0.005 to 12% by weight with respect to the weight of the coloring composition. According to a still more advantageous embodiment of the invention, the content of direct dyes represents from 0.01 to 5% by weight with respect to the weight of the coloring composition. The composition according to the invention can also contain at least one alkalizing agent. Among alkalizing agents, mention may be made, for example, of ammonia, alkali metal carbonates, C2-Cao alkanolamines, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines, and their derivatives, hydroxy-alkylamines and oxyethylenated ethylenediamines and / or or oxypropylenates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal silicates and compounds of the following formula:
\ / W- -N / \ R R
where R is a propylene residue optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical; R38, R39, R4o and R4 ?, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl C? -C radical. Preferably, the alkalizing agent is selected from ammonia, alkanolamines and alkanolamines with alkali metal or alkaline earth metal silicates. According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition does not contain ammonia as an alkalizing agent. It should be noted that the pH can also be adjusted using acidifying agents, such as, for example, mineral or organic acids, such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid , citric acid and lactic acid and sulfonic acids. More particularly, the content of alkalizing and / or acidifying agent is such that the pH of the coloring composition is between 3 and 12, advantageously between 4 and 11 and preferably between 7 and 11. The composition according to the invention can also include one or more cationic or amphoteric substantive polymers. It should be noted that, in the sense of the present invention, the term "cationic polymer" refers to any polymer that contains cationic groups and / or ionizable groups in cationic groups. Such polymers can be selected from those already known per se as enhancers of the cosmetic properties of the hair, namely, in particular, those described in the patent application EP-A-337,354 and in the French patents FR-2, 270, 846 2,383,660, 2,598,611, 2,470,596 and 2,519,863. The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those containing units bearing primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups, which may either be part of the polymer backbone, or be carried by a side substituent directly attached thereto. The cationic polymers used generally have a number average molar mass of 500 to 5x10 and preferably from 103 to 3xl06. Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made in particular of polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and polyammonium quaternary type. They are known products. They are especially described in French patents No. 2,505,348 or 2,542,997. Among said polymers, there may be mentioned: (1) Homopolymers or copolymers derived from esters or from acrylic or methacrylic amides and bearing at least one of the units of formulas (I), (II), (III) or (IV) following:
where: R3, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical; the A, identical or different, represent an alkyl group, linear or branched, of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably of 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
R4 Rs and Re, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical and, preferably, an alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms; Rx and R2, being identical or different, represent hydrogen or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and, preferably, methyl or ethyl; X represents an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide, such as chloride or bromide. The copolymers of the family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers, which may be selected from the family of the acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone, acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted in the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1-C4) , acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyl lactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam and vinyl esters. Thus, among these copolymers of the family (1), mention may be made of: - the copolymers of dimethylaminoethyl acrylamide and methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES; - the copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, described, for example, in the patent application EP-A-080976 and sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY; - the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulphate, sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES; - Quaternized or not quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by the company ISP, such as "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755", or the so-called -COPOLYMER products 845, 958 and 937 A These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573; - the terpolymers of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP; - the vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers sold in particular under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP, and the quaternized dimethylaminopropyl vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFQUAT HS 100"by the company ISP. (2) cellulose ether derivatives carrying quaternary ammonium groups described in French Patent 1,492,597 and, in particular, polymers marketed under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the Union Carbide Corporation These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose which have reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group. (3) Cationic cellulose derivatives, such as copolymers of cellulose or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and described especially in US Pat. No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium salt, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The products marketed that meet this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the company National Starch. (4) The cationic guar gums described more particularly in US patents 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, such as guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups. For example, guar gums modified by a salt (for example, chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium are used. Such products are marketed especially under the trade names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company MEYHALL. (5) Polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals of straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers. Said polymers are especially described in French patents 2,162,025 and 2,280,361. (6) Water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared, in particular, by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bisazetidinium, a bishaloacildiamine, an alkyl bishalide or even an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound reactive towards a bishalohydrin, a bisazetidinium, a bishaloacildiamine, an alkyl bishalide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative, the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 moles per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they have one or more tertiary amine functions, quaternized. Said polymers are especially described in French patents 2,252,840 and 2,368,508. (7) Derivatives of polyaminoamides resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids, followed by an alkylation by bifunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of the adipic acid-dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers, where the alkyl radical has from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and is preferably methyl, ethyl and propyl. Said polymers are especially described in the French patent 1,583,363. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the polymers of adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylenetriamine, sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or F8" by the company Sandoz. (8) Polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine carrying two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids of 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid is between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the resulting polyaminoamide reacts with epichlorohydrin at a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide from 0.5: 1 to 1.8: 1. Such polymers are especially described in American patents 3,227,615 and 2,961,347. Polymers of this type are particularly marketed under the name "Hercosett 57" by the company Hercules Inc., or under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by the company Hercules in the case of the copolymer of adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine (9) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers bearing, as the main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formulas (V) or (VI):
(CH2) t) -CH2 ~ formulas in which k and t are 0 or 1, the sum of k + t being equal to 1; R9 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; R7 and R8, independently of one another, represent an alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group where the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms or a lower amidoalkyl group (L-C4), or R7 and R8 may represent together with the nitrogen atom to which heterocyclic groups are attached, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R7 and R8, independently of one another, preferably represent an alkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; It is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulphite, sulfate or phosphate These polymers are especially described in the French patent 2,080,759 and its certificate of addition 2,190,406. previously, mention may be made in particular of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride sold under the name "Merquat 100" by the company Calgon (and its homologues of low weight-average molar mass) and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and diacrylamide sold under the denomination "MERQUAT 550". (10) Quaternary diammonium polymers containing recurring units that correspond to the formula:
Formula (VII) in which: Rio Rii / RI2? and RI3? identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals of 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaiphatic radicals, or Rio, Rn, R? 2, and R? 3, together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms a those which are linked heterocycles which optionally contain a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or Ri0, Rn, RI2? And i3r represent a linear or branched C?-C6 alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -C0-0-R ?4-D or -CO-NH-R14-D group, where Ri4 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group; Ai and B represent polymethylene groups of 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and may contain, attached or interspersed in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen atoms or of sulfur or sulphoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and X "represents an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; i, Rio and? 2 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which a piperazine ring is attached, in addition, if Ax represents a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bi may also represent a group (CH2) n-CO-DOC- (CH2) n - where D represents: a) a glycol radical of formula -0-ZO-, where Z represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group that corresponds to one of the following formulas: (CH2-CH2-0) x-CH2 -CH2- [CH2-CH (CH3) -O] y -CH2-CH (CH3) - where x and y mean an integer from 1 to 4 representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing a degree of average polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primate-diamine radical of formula -NH-Y-NH-, wherein "Y represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or the bivalent radical - CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-; d ) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.
Preferably, X "is an anion such as chloride or bromide, these polymers have a number average molecular mass generally from 1,000 to 100,000 Polymers of this type are described especially in the French patents 2,320,330, 2,270,846, 2,316,271, 2,336,434 and 2,413,907 and in the U.S. Patents 2,273,780, 2,375,853, 2,388,614, 2,454,547, 3,206,462, 2,261,002, 2,271,378, 3,874,870, 4,001,432, 3,929,990, 3,966,904, 4,005,193, 4,025,617, 4,025,627, 4,025,653, 4,026,945 and 4,027,020 Polymers made up of units can be used more in particular recurring items that correspond to formula (VIII) below:
where Rio, Rn, R? 2, and R13, equal or different, represent an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical of from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to
and X "is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid. (11) Polyammonium quaternary polymers consisting of recurring units of formula (IX): - (CH 2) 2 -O- (CH 2) 2 h (ix)
formula in which: where p represents an integer that varies from 1 to 6 approximately, D can be null or can represent a group - (CH2) r-CO- where r represents a number equal to 4 or a 7 and X "is an anion Such polymers can be prepared by the processes described in U.S. Patent Nos. 4,157,388, 4,702,906 and 4,719,282, and are especially described in patent application EP-A-122,324. for example, the products "Mirapol A 15", "Mirapol AD1", "Mirapol AZI" and "Mirapol 175", sold by the company Miranol. (12) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, such as, for example, products marketed under the names Luviquat FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF (13) Polyamines, such as Polyquart H sold by HENKEL, referenced under the name "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL"
(15) TALLOW POLYAMINE "in the CTFA dictionary (14) Crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C? -C4) trialkyl (Ca-C4) ammonium salts, such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quatemized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized with dimethyl chloride, followed by homo- or copolymerization by a crosslinking with an olefinic unsaturation compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. More particularly, a cross-linked acrylamide copolymer can be used. / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil.This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALGARE® SC 92" by the company ALLIED COLLOIDS. also use a cross-linked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride containing approximately 50% by weight of homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are marketed under the names "SALGARE SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by the company ALLIED COLLOIDS. (15) Other cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneamines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
Among all the cationic polymers capable of being used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use the polymers of families (1), (9), (10), (11) and (14) and even more preferably polymers with recurring units of the following formulas (W) and (U)
CH, CH.
and especially those whose molecular weight, determined by gel permeation chromatography, is between 9,500 and 9,900;
CH, C2H5 fr (CH2) 3- -. { CH2) r (U) Br Br
and especially those whose molecular weight, determined by gel permeation chromatography, is about 1,200. As regards the amphoteric polymers which can be used according to the present invention, they can be chosen from polymers bearing K and M units statistically distributed in the polymer chain, where K represents a unit derived from a monomer carrying at least one atom basic nitrogen and M represents a unit derived from an acid monomer carrying one or more carboxylic or sulphonic groups, or K and M can represent groups derived from zwitterionic monomers of carboxybetaines or sulfobetaines. K and M can also represent a cationic polymer chain carrying primary amine groups, secondary, tertiary or quaternary, where at least one of the amine groups bears a carboxylic or sulfonic group linked by means of a hydrocarbon radical, or K and M are part of a chain of a polymer with ethylene-a, dicarboxylic, where one of the carboxylic groups has reacted with a polyamine bearing one or several primary or secondary amine groups. Amphoteric polymers corresponding to the above given definition are more particularly preferred among the following polymers: (1) Polymers resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group, such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid or. alpha-chloroacrylic acid, and a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom, such as, more particularly, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylate and acrylate and dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamide and acrylamide. Such compounds are described in U.S. Patent No. 3,836,537. Mention may also be made of the sodium acrylate / acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer sold under the name POLYQUART KE 3033 by the company HENKEL. The vinyl compound can also be a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, such as dimethyldiallylammonium chloride. The copolymers of acrylic acid and of this latter monomer are proposed under the names MERQUAT 280, MERQUAT 295 and MERQUAT PLUS 3330 by the company CALGO ?. (2) Polymers bearing units deriving from: a) at least one monomer selected from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by an alkyl radical, b) at least one acid comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups and c) at least a basic comonomer, such as esters with primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of acrylic and methacrylic acid and the quaternization product of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate. The N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides more particularly preferred according to the invention are groups whose alkyl radicals contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms and, more particularly, N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-tert-octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide and N-dodecyl acrylamide, as well as the corresponding methacrylamides. The acidic comonomers are selected more particularly from acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic and fumaric acids, as well as the alkyl monoesters of 1 to 4 carbon atoms of maleic or fumaric acid or anhydride. Preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N, N'-dimethylaminoethyl and N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates. Copolymers whose CTFA name (4"Ed., 1991) is octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer, are particularly used, such as the products sold under the name AMPHOMER or LOVOCRYL 47 by the company NATIONAL STARCH. (3) Crosslinked polyaminoamides and alkylated partially or wholly derived from polyminoamides of the general formula:
wherein R 9 represents a divalent radical derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, an aliphatic mono- or dicarboxylic acid with ethylenic double bond, an ester of a lower alkanol of 1 to 6 carbon atoms of these acids or a radical derived from the addition of any one of said acids with a bis-primary or bis-secondary amine, and Z represents a radical of a bis-primary, mono- or bis-secondary polyalkylene polyamine and preferably represents: a) in proportions of 60 to 100 mol% , the radical
where x = 2 and p = 2 or 3, or x = 3 and p = 2, this diethylenetriamine radical deriving from triethylenetetraamine or from dipropylenetriamine; b) in proportions of 0 to 40 mol%, the radical (XI) above, where x = 2 and p = l and which is derived from ethylenediamine, or the radical derived from piperazine:
/ \ -N N- \ /
c) in proportions of 0 to 20 mol%, the radical -NH- (CH2) 6-NH- deriving from hexamethylenediamine, these polyamino acids being crosslinked by addition of a bifunctional crosslinking agent selected from epihalohydrins, diepoxides , the dianhydrides and the bis-unsaturated derivatives, with an average of 0.025 to 0.35 moles of crosslinking agent per amine group of the polyaminoamide and alkylated by the action of acrylic acid, chloroacetic acid or an alkanesultone or its salts. Saturated carboxylic acids are preferably selected from acids of 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such as adipic acid, trimethyl-2,2,4-adipic and trimethyl-2,4,4-adipic acid, terephthalic acid and ethylenic double bond acids. as, for example, acrylic, methacrylic and itaconic acid. The alkanesultones used in the alkylation are preferably propane or butanesultone and the salts of the alkylating agents are preferably sodium or potassium salts. (4) Polymers bearing zwitterionic units of the formula:
wherein R20 represents a polymerizable unsaturated group, such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group; y and z represent an integer from 1 to 3; R21 and R22 represent a hydrogen atom, methyl, ethyl or propyl; R23 and R24 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical, such that the sum of the carbon atoms in R23 and R2 does not exceed 10. Polymers containing such units can also carry units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers, such such as dimethyl or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate, or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides or vinyl acetate. By way of example, mention may be made of the methyl methacrylate / methyl dimethylcarboxymethylammonium methylmethacrylate copolymer, such as the product sold under the name DIAFORMER Z301 by the company SANDOZ. (5) Polymers derived from chitosan bearing monomeric units corresponding to the following formulas (XIII), (XIV) and (XV):
(XII!) (XIV) (XV) R ^ -COGH unit being present (XIII) in proportions of 0 to 30%, unit (XIV) in proportions of 5 to 50% and unit F in proportions of 30 to 90%, it being understood that, in this unit (XV), R25 represents a radical of formula:
where: if q = 0, R26, R27 and R28 identical or different each represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino moiety, a monoalkylamine moiety or a dialkylamine moiety optionally interrupted by one or more hydrogen atoms; nitrogen and / or optionally substituted by one or more amine, hydroxyl, carboxyl, alkylthio, sulphonic groups, an alkylthio group whose alkyl group carries an amino moiety, at least one of the radicals R26, R27 and R28 being in this case an hydrogen, or if q = 1, R26, R27 and R28 each represent a hydrogen atom, as well as the salts formed by these compounds with bases or acids. (6) Polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan, such as N-carboxymethylchitosan or N-carboxybutylchitosan sold under the name "EVALSAN" by the company JAN DEKKER.
(7) Polymers corresponding to the general formula (XVI), such as those described, for example, in the French patent 1,400,366:
wherein R29 represents a hydrogen atom, a radical CH30, CH3CH20 or phenyl; R3o represents hydrogen or a lower alkyl radical, such as methyl or ethyl; R3? represents hydrogen or a lower alkyl radical, such as methyl or ethyl; R32 represents a lower alkyl radical, such as methyl or ethyl or a radical which corresponds to the formula: -R33-N (R3?) 2, where R33 represents a group -CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH2-CH2- or - CH2-CH (CH3) - and R3i having the meanings mentioned above, as well as the higher homologs of these radicals and containing up to 6 carbon atoms. (8) Amphoteric polymers of the type -D-X-D-X-, selected from: a) polymers obtained by the action of chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate on compounds bearing at least one unit of the formula: -D-X-D-X-D- (XVII) where D represents a radical
/ \ -N N- \ /
and X represents the symbol E or E '; E and E ', identical or different, represent a bivalent radical, which is a straight or branched chain alkylene radical of up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, unsubstituted or substituted by hydroxyl groups, and which can also carry oxygen, nitrogen or sulfur and from 1 to 3 aromatic and / or heterocyclic rings, the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulfoxide, sulfone, sulfonium, alkylamine, alkenylamine, hydroxyl, benzylamine groups, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide, alcohol, ester and / or urethane; b) polymers of formula -D-X-D-X- (XVIII) where D represents a radical
and X represents the symbol E or E 'and at least once E', E having the meaning indicated above, and E 'is a bivalent radical, which is a straight or branched chain alkylene radical of up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, substituted or unsubstituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, and bearing one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being replaced by an alkyl chain optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom and necessarily bearing one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions and betainized by reaction with chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate. (9) Copolymers of alkyl (C? ~ Cs) vinyl ether / maleic anhydride partially modified by semi-amidation with an N, N-dialkylaminoalkylamine, such as N, N-dimethylaminopropylamine, or by semi-esterification with an N, N-dialkanolamine. These copolymers can also carry other vinyl comonomers, such as vinylcaprolactam. Particularly preferred amphoteric polymers according to the invention are those of the family (1). According to the invention, the cationic or amphoteric substantive polymer (s), when present, advantageously represent from 0.01% to 10% by weight with respect to the weight of the coloring composition, more particularly from 0.05% to 5% by weight with respect to the weight of the coloring composition and preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight with respect to the weight of the coloring composition. The appropriate medium for dyeing the keratin fibers is generally constituted by water or by a mixture of water and at least one organic solvent to solubilize the compounds that would not be sufficiently soluble in water. As the organic solvent, there may be mentioned, for example, the lower C?-C 4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and ethers of polyols, such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof. The solvents can be present in proportions comprised between 1 and 40% by weight with respect to the weight of the coloring composition and preferably between 5 and 30% by weight with respect to the weight of the coloring composition. The composition can still include additives customary in the field, such as, in particular, organic thickeners other than the above-described hydroxyethylcellulose or minerals.; antioxidant agents; penetration agents; sequestering agents; perfumes; tampons; dispersing agents; conditioning agents other than cationic or amphoteric substantive polymers, such as, for example, cations, volatile or non-volatile silicones, modified or unmodified; smoke-killing agents; ceramides;
preservatives; stabilizing agents, and opacifying agents. Of course, the person skilled in the art will be able to select this or these possible complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically linked to the composition according to the invention are not altered, or not substantially so, by the association (s) contemplated. As indicated above, the present invention also relates to a process for coloring keratin materials using the composition according to the invention. According to a first variant, the method consists in applying the composition in the absence of an oxidizing agent on the keratin materials, preferably fibers, dry or wet, with or without final rinsing of the composition. In the case of this variant, the composition according to the invention does not include oxidation dye precursor, but only one or several direct dyes. According to a second variant of the invention, the method consists of applying the composition of the invention in the presence of an oxidizing agent on the keratin materials, dry or wet, and then letting rest for a sufficient time to obtain the desired coloration.
According to a first possibility, one or more coloring compositions according to the invention and an oxidizing composition are applied simultaneously or successively without intermediate rinsing on said keratin fibers. Preferably, the applied composition is a composition ready for use, that is, a composition obtained by extemporaneously mixing one or more coloring compositions according to the invention, with a composition including at least one oxidizing agent. In this case, the coloring composition may include one or more oxidation dye precursors. It may also include one or more direct dyes, in case a clearance of the keratin fibers in association with coloring is desired. Most obviously, the coloring composition can include an association of oxidation dye precursors and direct dyes. The oxidizing agent present in the oxidizing composition can be selected, for example, from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, and enzymes such as peroxidases and oxidoreductases. of two or four electrons. The use of hydrogen peroxide is particularly preferred. The content of oxidizing agent is, in general, between 1 and 40% by weight with respect to the weight of the composition ready for use, preferably between 1 and 20% by weight with respect to the weight of the composition ready for your employment. In general, the oxidant composition used is an aqueous composition and can be in the form of a solution or also of an emulsion. Usually, the composition free of oxidizing agent is mixed with about 0.5 to 10 equivalents by weight of the oxidizing composition. Note that the pH of the composition ready for use is more particularly between 3 and 12, preferably between 4 and 11 and even more precisely between 6.5 and 10.5. The pH of the composition ready for use can be adjusted by means of an alkalizing or acidifying agent especially selected from those mentioned above. Always in the case in which the composition is applied in the presence of an oxidizing agent, the process may include a preliminary step consisting of separately keeping, on the one hand, one or more coloring compositions according to the invention and, on the other hand, a composition which contains, in an appropriate medium for the staining of human keratin fibers, at least one oxidizing agent and then proceeds to its mixing at the time of its use before applying this mixture on keratin materials, dry or wet. Whatever the variant collected, that is, in the presence or absence of oxidizing agent, the time necessary for the development of the coloration is from approximately several seconds to 60 minutes and more particularly from approximately 1 to 50 minutes. The temperature necessary for the development of coloration is generally between room temperature (15 to 25 ° C) and 250 ° C, more particularly between room temperature and 180 ° C, preferably between room temperature and 60 ° C. C. Once the time necessary for the development of the coloration has elapsed, the composition is preferably eliminated. This can take place in a classical manner, either by using at least one rinse, either by using one or several washes and rinses (s), or by using their combination. Finally, the keratin materials are dried or allowed to dry. The following examples illustrate the invention without, however, limiting its scope. EXAMPLE 1 The following alkaline coloring composition A (amounts expressed in grams) was prepared: The coloring composition A is stable in storage. The dye composition A is mixed, at the time of its use, in a plastic container and for 2 minutes with a 6% aqueous oxidant composition of hydrogen peroxide, at a ratio of 1 part of coloring composition to 1.5 parts of oxidizing composition. . The mixture is easy and fast. The obtained mixture was applied on tufts of natural hair with 90% of white and left to rest for 20 minutes. The application is easy and fast. The product is perfectly localized, does not spill and extends well from root to tip.
7í
The strands were then rinsed with water, washed with a standard shampoo, rinsed again with water, then dried and unraveled. The mixture is thoroughly removed with the rinse. The hair was dyed in a powerful red copper tone. Also, the hair is not rough. EXAMPLE 2 The following alkaline coloring compositions were prepared (amounts expressed in grams):
The coloring compositions B and C are storage stable. The coloring preparations B and C are mixed, at the time of their use, in a plastic container and for 2 minutes with a 6% aqueous oxidative composition of hydrogen peroxide, at a ratio of 1 part of coloring composition per 1: 5. parts of oxidizing composition. The mixture is easy and fast, very particularly for composition B. Each mixture obtained was applied on locks of natural hair with 90% white and left to rest for 20 minutes. It is seen that the composition B is perfectly localized, does not spill out and extends better from the root to the tip with respect to the composition C. Each strand was then rinsed with water, washed with standard shampoo, rinsed again with water, then dried and unraveled. The mixtures are removed well with the rinse. In the case of the two compositions, the hair was dyed in a powerful red color. The shade is slightly more intense and less selective with the composition B according to the invention. In addition, the hair is less rough with the mixture coming from composition B according to the invention. EXAMPLE 3 The coloring composition without ammonia D following was prepared (amounts expressed in grams):
The dye composition D is mixed, at the time of its use, in a plastic container and for 2 minutes with a 6% aqueous oxidizing composition in hydrogen peroxide at a rate of 1 part of coloring composition per 1.5 parts of oxidizing composition. . The mixture is easy and fast. The mixture obtained was applied on locks of natural hair with 90% white and allowed to rest for 20 minutes. The application is easy and fast. The product is perfectly localized, does not spill and extends well from the root to the tip. The tufts were then rinsed with water, washed with standard shampoo, rinsed again with water and then dried and unraveled. The mixture is well removed with the rinse. The hair was dyed in a powerful reddish coppery hue. Also, the hair is not rough. EXAMPLE 4 The coloring composition without the following ammonia E (amounts expressed in grams) was finally prepared:
The coloring composition E is mixed, at the time of its use, in a plastic container and for 2 minutes with a 6% aqueous oxidizing composition in hydrogen peroxide at a rate of 1 part of coloring composition per 1.5 parts of oxidizing composition. . The mixture is easy and fast. The mixture obtained was applied on locks of natural hair with 90% white and allowed to rest for 20 minutes. The application is easy and fast. The product is perfectly localized, does not spill and extends well from root to tip. The strands were then rinsed with water, washed with standard shampoo, rinsed again with water and then dried and unraveled. The mixture is well removed with the rinse. The hair was dyed in a powerful red copper tone. Also, the hair is not rough. It is noted that in relation to this date, the best known method for carrying out the aforementioned invention is that which is clear from the present description of the invention
Claims (28)
- CLAIMS Having described the invention as above, the content of the following claims is claimed as property: 1. Coloring composition, characterized in that it contains, in an appropriate medium for the staining of the keratin fibers: • at least one oxidation dye precursor and / or al. minus a direct dye; • at least one nonionic, anionic surfactant or its mixtures; • at least hydroxyethylcellulose; • at least one cationic associative polymer; • at least one fatty body; • the weight ratio of the total amount of nonionic and anionic surfactants to the total amount of fatty substances greater than or equal to 1.75, and • the water content in the coloring composition representing at least 40% by weight with respect to weight of said coloring composition. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the water content represents at least 45% by weight with respect to the weight of said coloring composition. 3. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water content represents at least 50% by weight with respect to the weight of said coloring composition. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the nonionic surfactant is selected from: • oxyalkylenated or glycerolated fatty alcohols; alkylphenols whose alkyl chain is C 8 -C 8, oxyalkylenated; • Oxyalkylenated or glycerolated fatty amides; • oxyalkylenated vegetable oils; • esters of C3-C30 acids of sorbitan, optionally oxyalkylenated; • esters of sucrose fatty acids optionally oxyalkylenated; • fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; • alkyl (C6-C30) polyglycosides; • derivatives of N-alkyl (C6-C30) glucamine; • amine oxides, such as the alkyl (C? 0-C?) Amines oxides or the N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides; • ethylene oxide and propylene copolymers, and • their mixtures. 5. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the nonionic surfactant is selected from the oxyalkylenated or glycerolated fatty alcohols. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic surfactant is selected from: • (C6-C30 alkyl) sulphates, (C3-C30 alkyl) ether sulphates, (C6-C3) alkyl, amido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates and mono-glyceride sulfates; • (C3-C30) alkyl sulfonates, (C6-C30) alkylsulphonates, (C6-C30 alkyl) arylsulfonates, α-olefinsulfonates and paraffinsulfonates; • alkyl (C3-C30) phosphates; • (C6-C30) alkyl sulfosuccinates, (C3-C30 alkyl) ether sulfosuccinates and (C3-C30) alkyl-amidesulfosuccinates; • alkyl (C6-C30) sulphoacetates; • acyl (C3-C24) sarcosinates; • acyl (C6-C2) glutamates; • alkyl (C3-C3o) polyglycoside carboxylic ethers and (C6-C30 alkyl) polyglycoside sulfosuccinates, - • (C3-C30 alkyl) sulfosuccinamates; • acyl (Cg-C24) isethionates; • N-acyl (C6-C24) taurates; • salts of fatty acids and acid salts of copra oil or hydrogenated copra oil; • acyl (C8-C20) lactylates; • salts of alkyl (C6 ~ C30) -D-galactoside uronic acids; • polyoxyalkylenated polyoxyalkylenated alkyl, (C3-C30) alkyl (C3-C30) alkyl carboxylic acid salts of polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic alkyl (Ce-C30) amido ether carboxylic acids; • and their mixtures. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total proportion of the nonionic and / or anionic surfactant represents from 0.01% to 50% by weight with respect to the weight of the coloring composition. 8. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substance is selected from non-oxyalkylenated non-glycerolated fatty alcohols, non-oxyalkylenated non-glycerolated fatty acid amides., mono- and polyesters of carboxylic acids, mineral oils, vegetable oils or their mixtures. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content in fatty substances represents at most 10% by weight with respect to the weight of the coloring composition. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight proportion of the total amount of nonionic and anionic surfactants with respect to the amount of fatty substances is greater than 2. 11. Composition according to any of the claims precedents, characterized in that the weight ratio of the total amount of nonionic and anionic surfactants with respect to the amount of fatty substances is greater than 20. 12. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydroxyethylcellulose has a molecular weight. average of at least 700,000. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydroxyethylcellulose content represents from 0.01% to 5% by weight with respect to the weight of the coloring composition. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic associative polymer is selected from the quaternized cellulose derivatives, the cationic polyurethanes, the cationic polyvinyl lactams and the cationic acrylic terpolymers. 15. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic associative polymer content represents 0.01 to 5% by weight with respect to the weight of the coloring composition. 16. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oxidation dye precursor is selected from the oxidation bases, the couplers or their mixtures. 17. Composition according to claim 12, characterized in that the content of oxidation base represents from 0.0005 to 12% by weight with respect to the weight of the coloring composition. 18. Composition according to claim 12, characterized in that the copulant content represents from 0.0001 to 15% by weight with respect to the weight of the coloring composition. 19. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the direct dye content represents from 0.0005 to a 15% by weight with respect to the weight of the coloring composition. 20. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition contains at least one alkalizing agent. 21. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the alkalizing agent is selected from ammonia, alkanolamines and alkanolamine associations of 2 to 10 carbon atoms, with alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates. 22. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one cationic or amphoteric substantive polymer. 23. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the content of cationic or amphoteric substantive polymer represents 0.01% to 10% by weight with respect to the weight of the coloring composition. 24. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one oxidizing agent. Method for dyeing keratin fibers, characterized in that a composition according to any of claims 1 to 24 is applied to said fibers, dry or wet. 26. Coloring process for keratin fibers, characterized in that it is applied to said fibers. fibers, dry or wet, a dye composition according to any one of claims 1 to 23, in the presence of an oxidizing composition, applied simultaneously or successively without intermediate rinsing to the dyeing composition, the fibers are allowed to stand and rinse. Method for coloring keratin fibers, characterized in that a dye composition according to any one of claims 1 to 23 is applied to said fibers, dry or wet, in the presence of an oxidizing composition, mixed with the coloring composition before the application is allowed to stand and the fibers are rinsed. 28. Multi-compartment device usable for coloring keratin fibers, characterized in that it includes a first compartment that holds a composition according to any of claims 1 to 23, and that includes a second compartment that holds an oxidizing composition.
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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FR0550835 | 2005-03-31 |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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MXPA06003531A true MXPA06003531A (en) | 2007-04-20 |
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