JP2001011721A - Steric drawing of dress pattern - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To produce a well-balanced dress having a desired fittability, good designability and unified feeling from the upper body to the lower body without necessitating troublesome works such as basting by forming a dress pattern on a paper in a short time based on a simple calculation. SOLUTION: A basis pattern free from the swell of the bust, the bladebone, etc. of the wearing person is prepared by a calculation based on the measured value of one-bust dimension measured by passing a measuring tool on a point above the bust point of the person by about 5-6 cm and a straight line connecting both armpits of the person and a dimensions of the other parts of the wearing person. The basis pattern is cut open and a part corresponding to the swell is added thereto to obtain the pattern for the upper body. A yoke pattern forming an original form corresponding to the waist part is attached to the upper body pattern to form a body pattern. Parts corresponding to the margin and design part of the clothes are added to the body pattern to obtain the objective dress pattern.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a pattern used for cutting clothing fabrics,
The present invention relates to a method for creating a prototype based on the size of a wearer's one-bust (upper chest) as a reference, and for creating a pattern for clothes based on the prototype, and a storage medium having a program for implementing the method.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art In order to make clothes conforming to a three-dimensional body of a person using a flat cloth, the cloth is cut into parts having appropriate shapes such as a body and sleeves, and each part is cut. It must be sutured properly. At that time, in order to create a good-looking garment with a desired fit, it is necessary to appropriately determine the shape of each part. Therefore, a tool called paper pattern has been used to cut these parts from which the clothes are made from fabric. This pattern is
It is a paper tool that has been prepared in advance according to the desired design and the size and body shape of the wearer. The tool can be easily cut out by applying it to a fabric and cutting it along the outer shape.

[0003] By the way, it is said that it is relatively difficult to prepare a pattern for the upper garment because the upper body of the human body has particularly large irregularities such as a bulge of the bust. Conventionally, a ready-made pattern having a similar design is arranged. Method, draping method,
Pattern making methods such as planar drafting have been devised.

[0004] A method of arranging a ready-made pattern having a similar design is to appropriately change a ready-made pattern used for preparing a garment having a similar design to the garment to be prepared in accordance with the size and the body shape of the wearer. To change. In this case, the work is simple because the work of creating the pattern from scratch is omitted, but the clothes made by this method tend to depend on the design of the original ready-made pattern, and the actual desired design You can't get
In addition, since the adjustment is performed by making changes to the existing pattern, it is difficult to obtain clothes having a desired fit.

[0005] The three-dimensional cutting method is a method of preparing a pedestal by preparing a base similar to a wearer's size and body shape, applying a sheeting cloth to the base, and appropriately cutting the pedestal. According to this, it is possible to create clothes that are more three-dimensional and have a desired fit in that the pattern is obtained directly from the three-dimensional stand. However, in this draping method, the pattern creator performs the work by relying on his or her own intuition rather than obtaining the pattern by calculation, and thus requires a high level of skill. Therefore, it is not possible to easily create a pattern in a short time.

On the other hand, in the planar drawing method, generally, (1)
By calculating based on the measurement dimensions such as the bust, height, sleeve length, etc. of the measurement target person (that is, the wearer) and the standard dimensions of JIS standards, the actual dimensions of the wearer on the plane without including the design and room allowance Create a prototype that was developed in (2), and roughly add the design and spare parts to the prototype on paper. Therefore, since all the drafting operations can be performed on paper, it is simple, and a prototype and a pattern can be created in a short time. However, when using the pattern created by this method, it is necessary to temporarily sew the obtained parts, check the assembled state, and correct the size deviation, while the troublesome work of correcting the size deviation is required. But in the end, it lacked the three-dimensional effect.

This is specifically the case.
When making the upper garment of the clothes by the plane drafting method, the measurement was performed such that the measure passed horizontally at the highest position (bust point (BP)) of the chest of the measurement subject (that is, the wearer). The size is adopted as the wearer's bust size.
(In the present application, the bust size measured in this way is particularly referred to as “two bust (2B) size”).
Create a prototype based on the dimensions. However, especially when the wearer is a woman, the 2B dimension is not always an index indicating the physique of the wearer. For example, 8 with the same 2B size
Even if it is 6 cm, the prototype to be created should be completely different between a muscular woman with a small bust bulge and a firm skeleton and a woman with a large swelling but slim and thin skeleton. However, when a prototype is created based on the 2B dimensions, such a physical difference is not reflected in the prototype, so a troublesome work of once assembling the obtained parts and correcting the size is required.

Therefore, the inventors of the present application have identified problems inherent in each of the above-mentioned pattern making methods, namely, a problem that clothes having a desired design and a desired fit cannot be realized, and advanced techniques for forming a pattern. And a time-consuming and time-consuming draping method, and a flat drafting method that requires troublesome work such as temporary stitching and correction. .
In the process, when only the 2B dimension is used, it is not possible to create an accurate pattern due to the difference in the bulge of the bust. Created a new concept of "one bust (1B) size" (or "upper chest size"), which can be an indicator of the physique of the elderly.

The 1B dimension is a dimension around the chest measured by passing a measure on a straight line connecting a point located about 5 cm to about 6 cm above the bust point of the wearer and both lower sides. is there. Since the 1B dimension is different from the 2B dimension and is measured so as to avoid the bulge portion (and the scapula) of the bust, it is not affected by the size of the bust bulge of the wearer, and the size of the skeleton of the trunk is not affected. It can be used to figure out. Also, unlike so-called underbust, since the measurement is made to pass over the pectoralis major, the muscle mass of the wearer can be roughly grasped.

Then, a basic prototype corresponding to the wearer's skeleton and muscle mass is created based on the 1B dimension, and the basic prototype is incised and a part corresponding to the bulge of the bust and the scapula is added to the basic prototype to add it. This method of producing a pattern and producing a pattern based on the method is disclosed in Japanese Patent Nos. 1470786 and 1615558 to the present inventors. According to the above patent invention, an upper garment worn above the waistline, such as a tank top, an upper body cut-and-sew, or a camisole, can be formed to have a good appearance and a desired fit.

[0011]

However, in the case of making a garment whose cloth covers not only the upper body part of the wearer but also the lower back part, such as a one-piece, swimsuit, jacket, coat, etc. It is not sufficient to use the upper body prototype and upper clothing pattern alone. Therefore, the present invention has a desired fit and rich in design, and also creates a well-balanced garment with a sense of unity from the upper body to the lower body, without the need for cumbersome work such as temporary sewing and correction, A technique of appropriately attaching a lower body prototype to the waistline of the upper body prototype to create a trunk body prototype and providing a pattern for clothes based on the body prototype is provided.

[0012]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION A method of making a pattern used for making clothes according to the present invention includes a point located about 5 cm to about 6 cm above a bust point of a wearer, and a position under both sides of the wearer. The bust, scapula, etc. of the wearer are calculated based on the 1B dimension measurement value measured by passing the measuring instrument on a straight line connecting Create a basic prototype that does not include the swelling of
Cut the basic prototype and add a portion corresponding to the bulge to create an upper body prototype, attach a yoke prototype corresponding to the waist to this upper body prototype, and create a fuselage prototype. The pattern is created by adding a portion corresponding to the space and design of the clothes to the body model. The present invention also relates to a storage medium provided with a program for executing the above-described pattern making method.

[0013]

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The method of the present invention for producing a garment pattern and a garment pattern based on the pattern will now be described in detail with reference to preferred embodiments.

=== Explanation of Measurement Location === In the pattern making method of this embodiment, the dimension values of the measurement locations (1) to (13) shown in FIG. 1 are used. (1) As described above, "one bust (1B)" is a measuring instrument on a straight line connecting a point located about 5 cm to about 6 cm above the bust point of the wearer and both lower sides of the wearer. (Measure etc.) is a dimension value measured so as to pass. (2) "Tuba bust (2B)" is a commonly used chest girth dimension, which is a dimension value of a chest circumference measured on a horizontal plane passing through a bust point. (3) "Waist" is a dimension measured on a horizontal plane passing through the thinnest part of the trunk. (4) "Middle hip" is a dimension value measured on a horizontal plane passing through the midpoint between the waist and the hip. (5) "Hip" is a dimension value measured on a horizontal plane passing through the thickest part of the waist. (6) "Hip length" is a dimension value obtained by measuring the distance from the waist to the hip beside the body. (7) The “front length” is a dimension value obtained by measuring a distance from a side neck point (an intersection of a neckline and a front edge of an upper line of a muscular muscle (JIS standard)) to a waistline passing through a bust point. (8) “Bust drop” is a dimension value obtained by measuring the distance from the side neck point to the bust point. (9) “Bust point width” is a dimension value obtained by measuring a distance between both bust points. (10) "Chest width" is a dimension value obtained by linearly measuring the distance between the bases of the left and right arms. (11) The “back width” is a dimension value obtained by linearly measuring the distance between the bases of the left and right arms on the back surface. (12) "Shoulder width" is a dimension value that measures the distance between the shoulder points of both shoulders (the intersection of a vertical line that divides the width of the upper part of the upper arm into two equal parts when viewed from the side and the arm cyline (JIS standard)). is there. (13) The “height” is a dimension value obtained by measuring the distance from the back neck point (the tip of the spinous protrusion of the seventh cervical vertebra (JIS standard)) to the waist line on the center line of the back.

Of course, the dimensional values of the above-mentioned measuring points may be actually measured. However, since measurement is relatively difficult due to the elasticity of the human body, only the 1B dimension of the wearer is actually measured, and an appropriate size table is obtained from the size table group shown in FIG. Alternatively, the standard size described therein may be used as the dimension value of each measurement point. In the present embodiment, the latter size table is used.

=== How to Make a Prototype === << 1. Creation of Basic Prototype >> Hereinafter, a procedure for creating a basic prototype for the upper left body will be described. In addition,
The “basic prototype” here refers to a prototype that indicates the skeleton and muscle mass of the wearer and does not include the bulge of the bust and scapula.

Determination of Measurement Dimension of Each Part First, from about 5 cm to about 6 cm from the wearer's bust point
The 1B dimension is measured so that the measure passes over a straight line connecting the point located above and the lower sides. In the present example, as a result of the measurement, it is assumed that the 1B dimension of the wearer is 80 cm and the wearer has a standard body shape, and the size table from “Standard (A) body size table group” to “No. 9” in FIG. Selected and the standard dimensions described therein shall be adopted below.

Setting of Basic Line As shown in FIG. 3, on paper of a certain size, the height (left and right sides) corresponds to the “height” dimension in the size table, and the width (upper and lower sides) is Δ ( 1B "Draw a rectangle with dimensions {2) +5 cm. That is, in this embodiment, the size of this rectangle is 37 × 45 cm. Then, a straight line 1 parallel to the upper and lower sides is drawn at a position (“1B” dimension ÷ 4) cm from the upper side of this rectangle, that is, 20 cm from the top in this embodiment. In FIG. 3, the left side of the rectangle is the front center (CF).
The right side is the rear center (CB).

Setting of Side Lines As shown in FIG. 4, on the straight line 1, a position (“chest width” dimension 」2) cm from the C / F side, that is, 13.
Set a point at 5 cm. Next, a position of (“back width” dimension ÷ 2) cm from the CB side, that is, 15.75 c
Set a point a at m. Next, a vertical line 2 is drawn from the middle point (point c) between points a and a toward the lower side. Position at both sides (“1B” dimension ÷ 16) cm of point c, ie 5c
At point m, points d and o are set, and vertical lines 3 and 4 are drawn from each of them toward the upper side of the rectangle. The points where the vertical lines 3 and 4 intersect the upper side are referred to as point f and point k, respectively.

As shown in FIG. 5, the middle point between the left side (CF side) of the rectangle and the point F is set as a point. From this point h, toward the C / F side (“1B” dimension Ｃ12) cm, that is, 6.6c
A point is set at m, and a point is set at a position of 23 cm from the upper left corner of the rectangle for the size of “milk drop (bust drop)”. Then, a straight line 5 connecting the point and the point
And Next, on the straight line 5, from the point 」(“ 1B ”dimension ÷
12) A point is set at a position of cm, that is, 6.6 cm. Then, the point と and the point 結 び are connected by a curve as shown in the figure, and this is set as a curve 6. On the other hand, a point is set at a position of (“1B” dimension ÷ 12) cm from the right side (C · B) of the rectangle, that is, 6.6 cm. Draw a vertical line 7 from this point upward, and on this vertical line 7,
From the point ｛(“Back width”-“Chest width”) ÷ 2｝ c
m, that is, a point S is set at a position 2.25 cm above the point S. Then, the point S and the upper right end of the rectangle are connected by a curve as shown in the figure, and this is designated as a curve 8. That is, the curve 6 is around the front neck and the curve 8 is around the back neck.

Setting of Shoulder Line As shown in FIG. 6, from the upper side of the rectangle (the “1B” dimension ÷
36) At a position of cm, that is, 2.2 cm, draw a line 9 parallel to the upper side so as to connect the straight line 3 and the straight line 4, set the intersection of the line 9 and the straight line 3 as a point, and set the intersection of the line 4 and the straight line 4. It is a point.
As shown in FIGS. 6 and 7, a point is set on the straight line 3 at a position {(“back width” dimension− “chest width” dimension)} 2 cm below the point C, that is, 2.25 cm below. This point is connected to the point, and this is defined as a straight line 10. On the other hand, from the point S on the extension of the straight line 4, ｛("back width"dimension-"chestwidth"
(Dimension) A point H is set at a position above {2} cm, that is, a position above 2.25 cm, and the point H and the point S are connected to form a straight line 11.

Adjustment of Shoulder Line As shown in FIG. 8, a vertical line is placed at a position of {(“shoulder width” dimension ÷ 2) +1.0} cm from the right side (CB) of the rectangle, that is, at a position of 19.5 cm. Draw 12. Then, the straight line 11 is extended, and the intersection with the vertical line 12 is defined as a point. The extended straight line 11 becomes the rear shoulder line, and the length between the point and the point is set to ☆ cm. Next, the straight line 10 is extended to the lower right so that the length of the straight line 10 becomes ☆ cm, and an end point on the extended side of the straight line 10 is set as a point te. The extended straight line 10 becomes the front shoulder line.

Setting of Armhole As shown in FIG. 9, the intersection of the straight line 3 and the straight line 10 is a point, and the middle point between the point and the point d is a point. Then, a curve as shown is drawn that passes through points te, g, and c. On the other hand, the middle point between the point K and the point O
A curve as shown is drawn that passes through the points, the points, and the points c. That is, a curve 12 as shown in the figure passing through the points te, g, c, n and z is obtained. Then this curve 1
A curve 13 as shown is drawn 1.0 cm inside of 2. This is the armhole. As shown in FIG. 10, the distance between the curve 12 and the point d is preferably about 2.0 cm, and the distance from the point e is preferably about 3.0 cm.

Setting of Bust Line and Waist Darts As shown in FIG. 11, draw a straight line 14 that is parallel to the upper and lower sides of the rectangle and that passes through the point “K”, and “(milk width (bust point width)”
A point に is set at a position of dimension ÷ 2) cm, that is, 8.5 cm, and this is set as a bust point (BP). A vertical line is drawn from this point to the lower side of the rectangle, and the intersection with the lower side is set as a point, and points No and C are set at positions 1.0 cm to the left and right. Then, an isosceles triangle as shown is drawn by connecting the point nu, the point no and the point c, and this portion is defined as a front dart. Further, a middle point between the right side (C · B) of the rectangle and the point O is set as a point H, and a vertical line is drawn from there to the lower side of the rectangle. The point of intersection between the vertical line and the lower side is defined as a point F, and a point F and a point E are set at 1.5 cm left and right. Then, an isosceles triangle as shown is drawn by connecting the point E, the point F, and the point E, and this portion is defined as a rear dart. Next, on the lower side of the rectangle, a point is set at a position of {("waist" dimension # 4) +2.0} cm from the left side (CF side), that is, 18 cm. Straight line 1 connecting
5 is a side line. Also, on the lower side of the rectangle, the right side (C
B) From ｛(“waist” dimension ÷ 4) + 3.0 cm,
That is, a dot M is set at a position of 19 cm, and a straight line 16 connecting the dot M and the point C is set as a side line.

Completion of Basic Prototype By cutting out the figure created as described above, FIG.
The basic prototype for the upper body shown in Fig. 1 is obtained. The CB side is the front body, and the CB side is the back body.

<< 2. Creation of upper body prototype >>"1" above
The procedure for incising the basic prototype created in the above and adding the bust and scapula bulge to create the upper body prototype will be described below.

Setting of Incision Line As shown in FIG. 13, the front shoulder line (straight line 10) is divided into three equal parts,
A straight line 1 connecting the trisection point on the side of the neckline and the point nu (BP)
7 is assumed. Also, a straight line 1 parallel to the lower side so as to pass through the point
8 is drawn, and this is set as a bust line (B · L). Then, the respective regions surrounded by the outer peripheral line of the front body and the straight lines 17 and 18 are represented by (i), (ii), (iii) and (i), respectively.
v). The intersection between the straight line 18 and the straight line 15 is defined as a point.

Adjustment of Front Body First, the front body is cut along a straight line 18. And
As shown in FIG. 14, the regions (ii) and (iii) of the body are shifted upward about the point U so that the straight line 5 (that is, the line segment Sako) is perpendicular to the lower side. At this time,
Since point nu and point um are divided into two, for convenience, (ii)
The (iii) side is the point ₁ and the point ₁ , and the (i) and (iv) sides are the point ₂ and the point ₂ . At this time, the point ₁ becomes a bust point (BP). Next, as shown in FIG. 15, an interval of ("front length"-"height") cm between the body (i) and (iv) and (ii) and (iii), that is, a 4 cm space (I) and (iv) are shifted downward so that is opened. Then
As shown in FIG. 16, (ii) and (iii) are cut along a straight line 17, and ｛(“2
B "dimension-" 1B "dimension) {2} cm, ie 1.25
The lower side of (iii) is shifted outward by cm. And point nu
(Iv) is shifted so that the upper side of (iv) overlaps on the line connecting ₂ and point ₁ and that point ₂ is on point ₁ . Here, the lower side of (iv) is a straight line 19, the right side is a straight line 20, and the lower side of (i) is a straight line 21. FIG.
As shown in FIG. 18 which is an enlarged view of the point, a point is set at a position 1.5 cm below the point ₁ on a straight line connecting the point ₁ and the point No. The point C and the point C are connected by a curve as shown. In addition, the point and the point are connected by a straight line. Finally, the straight line 5 and the left side of (i) are connected by a straight line, and FIG.
Obtain the front body of 9 upper body prototype.

Adjustment of Back Body As shown in FIG. 20, the back shoulder line (straight line 11) is divided into three equal parts.
The trisection point on the side of the neck is defined as a point. A point about 9.0 cm below the point on the straight line connecting the point and the point is defined as a point. Also, a point Y is set at a position about 7.5 cm below the left end point of the straight line 11 to connect the point Y and the point Y. next,
As shown in FIG. 21, the line segment yam is cut, and at a point on the straight line 11, a notch having a width of {(“back width” dimension− “chest width” dimension)} 2 cm, that is, 2.25 cm is formed. The point is shifted about the center of rotation so that it can be performed. At this time, there is a portion where the paper overlaps on the armhole side, and this is folded and folded. Finally, the armhole is redrawn so as to have a smooth curve, and the rear body of the upper body prototype in FIG. 22 is obtained. FIG. 23 shows an upper body prototype obtained by the above procedure. The shaded portions in the figure correspond to the bust and scapula bulges added to the basic prototype.

<< 3. Complete the fuselage prototype by attaching the yoke prototype to the upper body prototype >> By combining the upper body prototype created in the above <2> with the yoke prototype as the waist prototype, the fuselage prototype as shown in FIG. 24 is completed. The procedure is described below.

As shown in FIG. 25, in the front body of the upper body prototype created above, the middle point of the straight line 19 is defined as a point a, and the straight line 22 substantially parallel to the straight line 20 is defined as a point a. The intersection of the straight line 22 and the curve 13 is defined as a point b. Then, a straight line 23 is formed by connecting the point b and the point M.

On the other hand, in order to create a yoke prototype corresponding to the hip portion of the wearer, the height must be “hip length”,
Draw a rectangle whose width is ｛(“hip” dimension) ÷ 4) −0.5｝ cm. In other words, here, 22.375 cm × 20
cm. In this rectangle, the upper side corresponds to the waist line (W · L), and the lower side corresponds to the hip line (H · L). Then, a straight line 24 parallel to the waist line and the hip line is drawn between the waist line and the hip line. This straight line 24 corresponds to the middle hip line (M · H · L).

Next, as shown in FIG. 26, a point c is set on the upper side of the rectangle at a position corresponding to the length of the straight line 21 from the left side (the length indicated by a circle in the figure). On the other hand, a straight line 24
A point d is set at a position where 1.0 cm is added to the length of the straight line 21 from the left side. Then, a straight line 2 connecting point c and point d
5 is assumed.

On the other hand, on the upper side of the rectangle, the point e is located at a position ("waist" dimension ÷ 4) cm from the left side, that is, 16 cm.
Is set, and a middle point between the point e and the upper right end point of the rectangle is set as a point f. Then, a straight line 26 is formed by connecting this point f and the lower right point of the rectangle.

Next, as shown in FIG.
3, the left side (CF side) of the upper body prototype and the yoke prototype are arranged in a straight line, and the lower right part of the upper body prototype is shifted with the dot point as the center of rotation, so that the upper body prototype is displaced. Align the bottom side of the with the waistline of the York prototype. In this state, point No and point c overlap. Further, since the upper body prototype is divided at the position of point b, for convenience, and a point b ₁ and the point b ₂ as shown the respective points. And the distance between the point No and the point C is 2.0c.
The upper body prototype is shifted so as to be m, and the point c and the point d are connected to form a straight line 27. When the yoke prototype is cut along the straight lines 25 and 27 and a triangular piece of paper is cut out, a dart portion surrounded by points C, C, C and D is formed.

Next, as shown in FIG. 28, were dissected straight 22, so as to overlap and the f point between the yoke original point of the upper body prototype, the hatched portion in the figure the point b ₂ as the center of rotation Stagger. At this time, since the upper body prototype is divided at the position of the point a, for convenience, and a point a ₁ and the point a ₂ as shown the respective points. On the other hand, an intermediate point between the point d of the yoke prototype and the straight line 26 is defined as a point g, and the points a ₁ and a ₂ are:
When the yoke prototype is cut along a straight line connecting the points g to cut a triangular piece of paper, the points b ₂ , a ₁ , and a ₂
And a dart part surrounded by the point g is formed. In addition, MH
• Draw a curve on L that passes a position approximately 0.5 cm outside of the straight line 26, and use this as a side line. As described above, a torso prototype (front body) as shown in FIG. 29 is obtained.

As shown in FIG. 30, in the rear body of the upper body prototype prepared in << 2 >>, the lower left side is a straight line 28 and the left side is a straight line 29, as shown in FIG. The midpoint of the straight line 28 is defined as a point h, a straight line 30 substantially parallel to the straight line 29 is drawn from the point h, and the intersection of the straight line 30 and the curve 13 is defined as a point i. On the other hand, in order to create a yoke prototype, a rectangle having a height of “hip length” and a width of {(“hip” dimension) た め 4) +0.5｝ cm is drawn. In other words, 23.375 cm ×
20 cm. In this rectangle, the upper side is a waist line (W · L), and the lower side is a hip line (H · L).
Is equivalent to Then, a straight line 31 parallel to the waist line and the hip line is drawn between the waist line and the hip line. This straight line 3
1 corresponds to the middle hip line (M · H · L). Further, a straight line 32 is drawn 2.0 cm below the straight line 31.

Next, as shown in FIG. 31, on the upper side of the yoke prototype, a position corresponding to the same length from the right side to the lower right side of the upper body prototype (the length indicated by a circle in the figure). Is set to a point j. On the other hand, on the straight line 32, a point k is set at a position obtained by adding 1.5 cm from the right side to the length represented by the above-mentioned “○”. Then, a straight line 3 connecting points j and k
3 is assumed. On the other hand, a point l is set at a position on the upper side of the rectangle ("waist" dimension ÷ 4) cm from the right side, that is, 16 cm, and a middle point between the point l and the upper left point of the rectangle is defined as a point m.
And The point m and the lower left point of the rectangle are connected to form a straight line 34.

Next, as shown in FIG. 32, the right sides (CB side) of the upper body prototype and the yoke prototype are arranged in a straight line, and the lower side of the upper body prototype and the waistline of the yoke prototype are aligned. . In this state,
Point e and point j overlap. Then, the upper body prototype is shifted with the point H as the center of rotation so that the distance between the point F and the point E is 3.0 cm, and the point F and the point k are connected to form a straight line 35. When the yoke prototype is cut along the straight lines 33 and 35 and a triangular piece of paper is cut out, a dart portion surrounded by points H, F, E, and k is formed.

Next, as shown in FIG. 33, a straight line 30 is incised, and the hatched portion in the figure is shifted with the point i as the center of rotation so that the point M of the upper body prototype and the point m of the yoke prototype overlap. . At this time, since the upper body prototype is bisected at the position of the point h, for convenience, the points h
It was ₁ and the point _{h 2.} On the other hand, the midpoint between k and the straight line 34 points of the yoke prototype the point n, a point h ₁ and point h _2, when along the point n to the connecting it straight lines cut the paper triangle off the yoke prototype , A point i, a point h ₁ , a point h ₂ and a point n are formed. In addition, M ・ H ・ L
A curve is drawn on the upper side that passes a position about 0.5 cm outside of the straight line 34, and this is defined as a side line. As described above, a body prototype (rear body) as shown in FIG. 34 is obtained.

FIG. 35 shows a torso prototype (the front and rear body and back body) according to one embodiment of the present invention, in which the actual dimensions and dimensions of the wearer are developed on a plane without including the design and room. FIG. (However, in this prototype,
Actually, it includes “respiratory comfort” derived from the swelling of the chest during breathing. ◎ Note that the darts are not limited to the positions shown in the prototype of FIG. 35, but may be in the positions shown in FIG. 36, for example. FIG. 37 shows a torso prototype obtained by inputting the 1B dimensions of the wearer and the standard dimensions described in the standard body size table into a computer, and starting a program capable of executing the above procedure on the computer. It was shown to. The shape of the obtained fuselage prototype is slightly different from that of FIG. 35, but all of them are in accordance with the gist of the present invention.

=== How to make the pattern paper === By adding the amount of clearance shown in the table of FIG. 38 to the body model shown in FIG. 37, the jacket for the jacket consisting of the upper body part and the waist yoke part is obtained. One embodiment of a procedure for creating a pattern will be described below. In the table of FIG. 38, the items of “body width” and “neckline” are “(1/1 /
4) ", but in this example, since it is desired to provide a width of 8 cm for the clothes to be created as a whole, it is to be inserted into one of the four body models, namely, front, back, left and right. The clearance means that it corresponds to 1/4 of the total clearance (that is, 2 cm).

Clearance of Neckline → FIG. 39 shows only the upper body prototype for the body prototype for the sake of simplicity. First, a straight line is drawn from the point A of the rear body portion of the trunk body toward the back collar, and cut along this straight line. Next, FIG.
According to the table in FIG. 8, a margin of 1 cm is to be provided in the neckline (1/4 amount), so that the point A is the center of rotation and the width of B in the figure is shifted to 1 cm. Here, the distance (top width) from the point C in the figure to the rear center (C / B) is expressed as “△” cm for convenience. Next, a straight line is drawn from the point D (BP) toward the front collar around the front body portion of the torso prototype (upper body portion) shown in FIG. 39, and cut along this straight line. Then, the prototype is shifted with the point D as the rotation center so that the distance (top width) from the front center (C · F) to the point E in the figure becomes Δcm.

Width of body width → In the table of FIG. 38, the width of the body (1/4 amount) has a space of 2 cm, but here, as shown in FIG. It is cut in the longitudinal direction, opened so that the width of each cut portion becomes 1 cm, and the space is divided into two places.

Clearance of shoulder pad → The table of FIG. 38 states that a space of 1.5 cm for the shoulder pad is provided.
As shown in FIG. 1, for each of the front body and the back body, the curve of the armhole (AH) is set to 1.5
cm and extend to points F and G, respectively, and point E
The point F is connected to the point C and the point G, and the hatched portion in the figure is defined as the amount of clearance for the shoulder pad. Again, for simplicity of description, FIG. 41 shows only the upper body prototype of the fuselage prototype.

At the present stage, by adding a margin to the darts (AH darts) in the armholes of the front and rear bodies and reducing the width,
The armhole, that is, the bust portion, can be made clear. Specifically, if the AH darts were not narrowed at all, the tight clothing that fits the body would be obtained when the darts were sewn together, but if the width was narrowed down by adding the AH darts, the additional Only the bust part can make the clothes which have room. FIG.
In the table of FIG. 8, since the AH dart is reduced to 1/2 (50%), as shown in FIG. 42, the width of each of the AH darts of the front body and the back body is increased by the amount currently open. Add the shaded area so that it becomes half of. Again, for simplicity of description, FIG. 42 shows only the upper body prototype of the fuselage prototype.

Since the balance between the front and rear armholes is lost due to the AH darts being left open at the back incision →, the rear body is horizontally incised to correct this. In the table of FIG. 38, the amount of incision on the back is 分 の of the space of the AH dart on the front body.
As shown in 3, make a horizontal incision in the back body at an appropriate position,
Add a space equivalent to half the amount added to the AH darts. For example, as shown in the figure, if the clearance of the AH dart is 2 cm, the incision amount on the back is 1 cm. Again, to simplify the description, FIG.
Shows only the upper body prototype for the torso prototype.

Addition of the amount of inclination of the neck → As shown in FIG. 44 (a), in the clothing, the front collar hangs down while the rear collar rises upward. Therefore, as shown in FIG. 44 (b), a space corresponding to the inclination of the neck shown as a hatched portion is added from the shoulder line of the back body to the neckline. Again, for simplicity,
FIG. 44 (b) shows only the upper body prototype portion of the body prototype.

Movement of sleeve bottom → As shown in FIG. 45 (a), the position of the sleeve bottom changes according to the type of clothing to be created. Therefore, as shown in FIG. 45 (b), the curve of the armhole is rewritten according to the type of clothing, and the sleeve bottom is moved as appropriate. Here, for the sake of simplicity, FIG. 45 (b) shows only the upper body prototype of the body prototype.

By following the above procedure, FIG.
A jacket pattern as shown in FIG. In addition, since the amount of clearance described in the above-mentioned ~ varies depending on the type of clothing to be created, when creating other types of clothing, please refer to the list of the amount of clearance of the clothing type shown in FIG. 47 and the like. . However, the amount of clearance shown in this table is merely a reference value and does not limit the present invention.

[0051] Clothes can be made with a desired fit by creating sleeve patterns that match the jacket pattern described above, and sewn the parts obtained by cutting the fabric using these patterns.

The procedure for manually creating a pattern according to the present invention has been described in detail above. In practice, however, a program that can automatically create a pattern simply by inputting necessary dimensions is executed. A possible computer may be used.

[0053]

According to the present invention, the basic prototype prepared based on the 1B dimension, which is an index of the size and muscle mass of the wearer's skeleton, is incised, and a bulge such as a bust and a scapula is added thereto. A trunk prototype was prepared by appropriately attaching a yoke prototype for the waist to the upper body prototype, and a pattern was prepared by adding a space for wearing and a desired design to the trunk prototype. By using this pattern, even in the case of making clothes in which the cloth covers not only the upper body part but also the lower back part of the wearer, such as a one-piece, swimsuit, jacket, coat, etc., the upper body to the lower body can be used. It is possible to create well-balanced clothes with a sense of unity. Further, according to the pattern made by the method of the present invention, a garment having a desired fit and a good design can be produced without the need for troublesome work such as temporary sewing and correction.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a diagram showing an example of a measurement location measured when performing the method of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a size table group and a size table in which standard dimensions of measurement points shown in FIG. 1 are listed.

FIG. 3 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating a basic prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 4 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating a basic prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 5 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating a basic prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 6 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating a basic prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 7 is an enlarged view of a part of FIG. 6;

FIG. 8 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating a basic prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 9 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating a basic prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 10 is an enlarged view of a part of FIG. 9;

FIG. 11 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating a basic prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 12 is a diagram showing a basic prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 13 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating an upper body prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 14 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating an upper body prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 15 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating an upper body prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 16 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating an upper body prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 17 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating an upper body prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 18 is an enlarged view of a part of FIG. 17;

FIG. 19 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating an upper body prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 20 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating an upper body prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 21 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating an upper body prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 22 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating a prototype for an upper body according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 23 is a view showing an upper body prototype according to one embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 24 is a view showing a state where the body prototype according to one embodiment of the present invention is assembled.

FIG. 25 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating a body prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 26 is a diagram showing one procedure when creating a body prototype according to one embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 27 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating a body prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 28 is a diagram showing a procedure when creating a trunk prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 29 is a diagram showing a front body of a trunk body prototype according to one embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 30 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating a body prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 31 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating a body prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 32 is a view showing one procedure for creating a trunk prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 33 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating a fuselage prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 34 is a diagram showing a rear body of a trunk body prototype according to one embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 35 is a diagram showing a fuselage prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 36 is a diagram showing a fuselage prototype according to another embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 37 is a view showing a fuselage prototype according to still another embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 38 is a table showing an example of a clearance amount to be provided for a fuselage prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 39 is a diagram showing a procedure when creating a pattern according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 39 is a diagram showing a procedure when creating a pattern according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 40 is a diagram showing a procedure when creating a pattern according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 41 is a diagram showing a procedure when creating a pattern according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 42 is a diagram showing a procedure when creating a pattern according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 43 is a diagram showing a procedure when creating a pattern according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 44 (a) is a diagram showing the inclination of the neck of clothes,
(B) is a figure which shows one procedure at the time of producing the pattern paper concerning one Example of this invention.

FIG. 45 (a) is a diagram showing the position of the sleeve bottom of clothes.
(B) is a figure which shows one procedure at the time of producing the pattern paper concerning one Example of this invention.

FIG. 46 is a view showing a pattern according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 47 is a table showing another example of the amount of clearance to be provided for the fuselage prototype according to one embodiment of the present invention.

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[Procedure amendment]

[Submission Date] May 11, 2000 (2000.5.1)
1)

[Procedure amendment 1]

[Document name to be amended] Statement

[Correction target item name] Brief description of drawings

[Correction method] Change

[Correction contents]

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a diagram showing an example of a measurement location measured when performing the method of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a size table group and a size table in which standard dimensions of measurement points shown in FIG. 1 are listed.

FIG. 3 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating a basic prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 4 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating a basic prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 5 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating a basic prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 6 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating a basic prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 7 is an enlarged view of a part of FIG. 6;

FIG. 8 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating a basic prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 9 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating a basic prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 10 is an enlarged view of a part of FIG. 9;

FIG. 11 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating a basic prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 12 is a diagram showing a basic prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 13 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating an upper body prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 14 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating an upper body prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 15 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating an upper body prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 16 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating an upper body prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 17 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating an upper body prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 18 is an enlarged view of a part of FIG. 17;

FIG. 19 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating an upper body prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 20 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating an upper body prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 21 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating an upper body prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 22 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating a prototype for an upper body according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 23 is a view showing an upper body prototype according to one embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 24 is a view showing a state where the body prototype according to one embodiment of the present invention is assembled.

FIG. 25 is a diagram showing one procedure for creating a trunk prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 26 is a diagram showing one procedure when creating a body prototype according to one embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 27 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating a body prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 28 is a diagram showing a procedure when creating a trunk prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 29 is a diagram showing a front body of a trunk body prototype according to one embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 30 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating a body prototype according to one embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 31 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating a body prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 32 is a view showing one procedure for creating a trunk prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 33 is a diagram showing a procedure for creating a fuselage prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 34 is a diagram showing a rear body of a trunk body prototype according to one embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 35 is a diagram showing a fuselage prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 36 is a diagram showing a fuselage prototype according to another embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 37 is a view showing a fuselage prototype according to still another embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 38 is a table showing an example of a clearance amount to be provided for a fuselage prototype according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 39 is a diagram showing a procedure when creating a pattern according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 40 is a diagram showing a procedure when creating a pattern according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 41 is a diagram showing a procedure when creating a pattern according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 42 is a diagram showing a procedure when creating a pattern according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 43 is a diagram showing a procedure when creating a pattern according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 44 (a) is a diagram showing the inclination of the neck of clothes,
(B) is a figure which shows one procedure at the time of producing the pattern paper concerning one Example of this invention.

FIG. 45 (a) is a diagram showing the position of the sleeve bottom of clothes.
(B) is a figure which shows one procedure at the time of producing the pattern paper concerning one Example of this invention.

FIG. 46 is a view showing a pattern according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 47 is a table showing another example of the amount of clearance to be provided for the fuselage prototype according to one embodiment of the present invention.

Claims (2)

[Claims] 1. A method of making a pattern used for making clothes, comprising: a point positioned about 5 cm to about 6 cm above a bust point of a wearer and a straight line connecting both sides of the wearer. By calculation based on the 1B dimensional measurement value measured by passing the measuring instrument and the dimensional value of other parts of the wearer's body, the bulge of the wearer's bust, shoulder blade, etc. is not included Create a prototype, cut the basic prototype and add a part corresponding to the bulge to create an upper body prototype, and attach a yoke prototype corresponding to the waist to this upper body prototype, and attach the body prototype A pattern making method that creates a pattern by adding a part corresponding to the space and design of clothes to the body prototype. 2. A storage medium comprising a program for executing the method of making a pattern according to claim 1.